beastpath

im in the process of writing this up..... ask me whatever questions you want though.

what he said ^ spray it with electrical cleaner to get all the gunk off.

you mean the small ticking noise? i think thats what it was. I did an oil change and the noise is gone - so far. No metal shavings or bits in the oil or the filter. Only about 1.5quarts came out when I drained it, and then another 1 or so from the filter. so thats 2 quarts I was down on oil!!! My rear main leak is worse than I thought. I'll just have to make damn sure I have 4+ quarts of oil in there.

yeah, thats what id do

mine too. i think they are supposed to be faint in the day. 4 runners are the same too ive noticed.

i think it was 88 that did the spacer

thanks MY1PATH guess ill hit up the JY and order the hoohaa clink

sweet. i like it with the fairing

no metal shavings in the oil or the filter (cut it in half)

Oh - and i just read the codes and it reads 55 - no problems.

Heres the vid.

its definitely my truck. last night on the way home from work it started making the same noise a couple of minutes into the trip. pulled over, got out and started to use the stethoscope - still cant quite place it. It does NOT reverberate from the oil pan at all. After I had stopped the sound died down until It was not there at all anymore. Drove away again. It did not return right away, but came back about 15 mins later just before I got home. The sound is throughout the whole rpm range when it occurs. And I think its more mettalic and less hollow than a knocking sound. Ill take a video and post it.

Ok, So I have had what I thought was a header collector gasket leak for a while now with a light "playing card stuck in a bicycle spoke" sound when I get on the gas rapidly. I checked around the engine with an auto-stethoscope and the loudest place I could get the noise from was the collector flanges. Nothing except normal noise from block and heads. Was planning on replacing the gaskets next week with copper ones. Driving to school today I noticed another - louder - ticking/knocking coming from the engine. Scared me to death when I pulled up next to another truck and heard it. Pulled off and stuck the truck in neutral, started poking around with the stethoscope again. Can't find where this noise is coming from. Heads sound fine. Rockers sound normal. Block sounds normal. Pan sounds normal. Pulled the dipstick and oil isn't really dirty and there are no metal shavings in it. I'm not definite if this is a tick or a knock. I'm going to do a full oil change tomorrow and saw the filter in half to check for shavings too. Any ideas? The collectors flanges are still noisy - and this is a different tick than the first one. Could it just be the other side collector gasket blew and is much noisier?

yeah I gave up on the Checker people a long time a go for the same reason. I needed to replace my collector gaskets a while back so went in for some. They insisted on using the vehicle model instead of just matching the gasket I brought in. I told them it had aftermarket headers on it also. In the end they tried to sell me an exhaust manifold gasket. I then walked down the "performance isle" and found the copper collector gaskets I was seeking. Then when my truck was overheating one of the guys there advised me that if I have a head gasket leak, not to bother replacing it and fixing the problem permanently, but to instead get these capsules to cool the engine down temporarily until it blows and I have to replace the whole thing. Now I just go in there with PN's, for oil, or for tool rental.

WOW man that is crazy! Glad you are OK though!!!

the best time to do the ECU upgrade is when you have already installed everything else. that way the new programming can take advantage of all the upgrades.

in my experience their cheap electric stuff always fails. if it doesn't fine, but if it does you will have to fork out another $20 for another one. for $50 you could get a decent gauge from summit and have it work the whole time. but its up to you.

you really want to trust a harbor freight gauge?

there are some on ebay right now for $500 + shipping (freight for my 3.0 long block was 150 from texas) or find one at a pick and pull on a 50% off day and you can get one for $175. you will probably put the 3.0 crank in there so that gives you a chance to redo the bearings etc.

Yeah, its almost drop in. Which is why anyone with a blown engine should do this instead of waste their money on another 3.0.

I'm assuming you have the auto? Have you looked into the 5speed swap? that bolts in without too much fuss. *Drools over thought of VG33 + 5speed WD21

Its too bad you don't live closer or I'd give you a hand so we can get the results faster.

I doubt it would work with just the bumper attachment. You need a strong attachment to the lower frame

yeah, I realize that. What I'm saying is the WD21 would have been perfect with the VG33 powerplant.

With intake, exhaust and cam mods I bet a VG33 could get 200hp+. It is what should have been in the WD21's in the first place.