beastpath

I've heard mixed things about the katzkin covers. As in they use a mix of leather an vinyl. I shopped around the other day and a few places quoted 1500-2000 for custom leather re-upholstery.

you should only need 4 rocker arms.

haha. nice. yeah, the guard is a great recovery point. i've been towed with it a few times. i am going to put two recovery hooks on it though and just lengthen the bolts through to the frame. yeah, idk what to do now. i was all excited to get the seats. maybe ill just splurge and get the replacement covers from nissan bit by bit.

well apparently these seats are not in "Great condition" as the listing stated. One has a huge cigarette burn and the other is torn. So no seats for me.

I cant find a single leather seat here in AZ from a JY. I have looked in pick and pulls, searched inventories, and looked through car-parts.com but all the ones in AZ are cloth. Grey leather I can find in states close by, but I want my tan interior to match and this is the only set I can find right now. Did people just not like the tan or something?

nope not to me. yeah comes to about 140 for both shipped. even if they are upping the price a bit IDGAD as the seats are only 50 a piece, leather, and it still saves me at least $1000

that would make sense to me too. he was claiming it cost 150 to ship one seat from Virginia to New York though.

How much do we think it will cost to get a pair of seats shipped from virginia to phx, az? the JY was trying to tell me a couple of hundred bucks.

well, LE is technically the top model. but you can find a lot of xe's with tons of extras, and a lot of se's with tons of extras too.

do these have the nissan logo etc?

xe is the base model se is sport edition le is luxury edition however, it has been determined by this forum that options can be found on all three models. for instance heated seats can be found on xe models as can leather. or the le model may not have leather and will have cloth. it was pretty much mix and match. yeah, the rims and tires will work on any wd21, but depending on the gears you will get better or worse mileage.

its pinned in the general forums

partsdinosaur.com also has good prices, good parts (ITM), and FAST shipping.

its a handy little jack. has saved my butt a number of times.

That sucks man. I can't tell you what you should do because it all depends how sentimental you are about the vehicle and whether you want to put the time and effort into building it again. From the pictures it looks like your lift is still on there, warn hubs and rims and tires. I think you should see if it will start first before you make a decision.

why would both need to be open or lsd? the gears should be the same in either right?

or felpro or ITM

have you bled the brakes?

I would be interested in what you come up with. I'd rather have more low/mid power than high rpm power even if it limits top end. The Schnieder site lists rpm ranges that the cams are effective at. Thier mildest grind is from 1500-5500rpm, and the second mildest (closest to the S1 cams) is from 1800-5800rpm. Are you planning on having your powerband start at less than 1500?

That is quite sad. I'm so glad my girlfriend likes my truck, even when parts break. I only have experience with disk brakes, but I would think you would have to remove the disk master cylinder too.

rugged rocks carries the Superlift arms in the Hardbody section I got RC UCA's from a shop who called and told RC I had a Hardbody that was in a collision. There is a thread on it which is linked in the pinned suspension guide for WD21's. The part numbers are there if that will help. I paid $150 for just the UCA's

could that be a wheel bearing? don't they scrape like that when they need re-packing? or am I thinking of something else...?

do the weathertech ones fit well?

x2 mine are metal

generally the pathfinder disk brakes are pretty strong. you could replace your rubber lines with steel braided ones, and a couple of people have swapped over chevy master cylinders as they are bigger.