beastpath

Driving home today at about 50mph my engine suddenly cut out. I pulled over to the side and tried turning her over but although the starter was trying to get the truck to start it wouldnt. I let it sit for a moment, and then tried again - turned on, and I drove away, but then about 20 feet later it died again. Let it sit, but this time I couldnt get it to turn on. The starter was still trying though. Does this sound like a fuel pump failure? I couldnt hear it hum when I turned the ignition, but thought that might be because I had just been driving it.

Do you know if that 1998 Pathfinder is a 5 speed or an auto?

I just got mine done. I have no idea what the factory stuff is (for the WD21s I think it was around 15% though), but I can tell you that the Llumar Formula one stuff is great. It really cut down on the heat from the windows (Arizona sun no less) and as long as you get the "comfort series" or above it comes with a lifetime warranty that INCLUDES user error. So if your dog scratches the tint, or something you put in the truck scratches it, they will replace it free of charge.

Who here has used the OME lift springs in the back? how much lift do those give? I'm not getting the lift I need at the front to remotely level it out (in fact I need to turn it down a bit again - at this point proper alignment and longevity is more important). So I was thinking of swapping out my 3" (more like 4.5") springs for either the AC 1.75" springs or the OME springs. Need to know how much the OME springs really give though - I've heard everything from .5" to 2".

never mind i just read above that it was custom, lol.

nice truck and welcome! is that the mesh grill insert that I see on ebay sometimes? any good?

I like both 2 doors and 4. I would go for the first one you put up that already has a lift on it. Do the timing belt and you are set.

Yes, there is a tensioner that the ac belt attaches to above the water pump (edited because i put the wrong info initially)

My Garmin is great, and you can download files that create waypoints on it. Also, if you really want to spend the cash, Garmin has topo/trail maps of various regions that you can add to your unit.

Why do you want to relocate it exactly?

Haha, the flip-side of that is when someone is so used to operating everything manually and then they get in their girlfriends car and are totally confused and overwhelmed by all the buttons and high-tech gadgetry that they don't know what to do. That describes me actually...

That's terrible and sad. My condolences to his family.

Look sweet. I have a set waiting to go on also.

congrats!

deal with it or move? sorry but thats why we have a system of representative government - so we can change things that we don't agree with or that are wrong.

there is an "oatmeal" shaving cream by gillete that really helps with reducing irritation.

Actually as long as you use the 3.0 intake on the 3.3 block the 3.0 ECU works just fine. Most everyone who has swapped a 3.3 in uses that setup and it works just fine - with increases in mileage and performance. Even those who have overbored to 3.4 use the 3.0 ECU. It should be able to compensate 15% anyway and many people have upgraded their ECUs by sending them to Jim Wolf or JET with great results.

7/8" bolts? you mean the hoohaa clink bolts? The website stated 90-100ftlbs. yeah, I know I need an alignment - had to go to work though.

The pitman on the dummy box is easy to turn without the worm gear. You can twist it by hand. It physically wont spin 360 even with the worm shaft out as the gear teeth get in the way. As for the power steering box I honestly didnt check for binding, but it moves well enough when I turn the wheel - in fact its more responsive than it was. When I was doing stuff I did loose some power steering fluid when I undid the adjuster nut at the top. Could it be lack of pressure that is making it not turn back to center?

Ok guys, I got the hoohaa centerlink and manual box all installed. Feels a lot tighter but I seem to have an issue. While driving to work I noticed when I turn the wheel it stays pointed in that direction when I let go. I have to physically turn the wheel back to the straight ahead position. It does not automatically recenter itself straight ahead. Also, when moving straight forward the wheel is very unstable - as in I have to keep compensating to keep it in the straight position. (alignment maybe? I only did an eyeball, will get a proper one on Monday) Both of these make it kind of stressful to drive. Any ideas on what could be wrong?

no way did I use a fork or hammer! lol. My box already leaks from the worm gear seal, I dont need another leak from the pitman arm seal.

yeah, if I had more time I would. but I need my truck working tomorrow before noon.

Man what a day! Got the hoohaa c-link installed and drilled out both pitman arms (my pitman arm was a terror to remove - broke my puller). Sealed up the box by jb-welding a piece of metal onto the hole and then siliconing the inside - as its not under any pressure I figure this will do. I went this route because when I took it to no less than 4 "machine shops" they told me they "didn't do welding or drilling, just engine rebuilding." Amazing! Ended up buying a 1/2" drill and drilling the arms myself. Almost got the manual steering box installed - just need to slot the holes and move the power steering lines. Ran out of light so that will get done in the AM. Heres a pic of the box under construction.

actually, swapping a pathfinder intake into the 300zx is a common mod because the pathfinder intake actually flows better. so keep yours as is

getting my box welded tomorrow and the arms drilled. I'll take some pictures of the process.