beastpath

That stinks man. But at least you can say you have true custom cams in there.

youd still have to take off accessory belts and the AC dampner to get to them each time. lol, that sounds like inviting it to break.

Those are cool and all, but do you honestly want to be tearing apart your timing covers every time you want to adjust them? I know I don't.

checker is an auto parts store. o'reilleys autozone napa or wherever will have them too.

yes they do. it was like 12 bucks for a set at checker

I finally got my truck running yesterday from the ignition circuit problem that my MSD box was giving me. It starts and runs, but shudders like crazy at idle and in low RPMS. Yesterday I changed out the ignition coil, cap and rotor, and this morning I changed out the spark plugs(NGK) and spark plug wires. Still shudders under 2000rpm and at idle, and there is less power when accelerating at lower rpms. Does this sound like a timing issue?

Well, I tested both my coil and my transistor per the FSM. Bought a new coil - and it tested exactly the same as my old one. Tried it - No go. Figured it was the transistor as it was showing a resistance of 2 ohms - FSM doesnt state if there should be any resistance, just to establish that there is continuity. Was going to look for one on thurs at a junk yard and give up for the night. Was looking through the FSM and realized I had not tested the ignition coil power wire for power when the ignition switch was in the ON position. I did so and got no reading, even though I was supposed to get ~12V. I have an MSD Offroad box spliced inbetween, so I followed it to the original wire and checked there. Hmm, there was power. Removed the MSD wires from the set up and reconnected the ignition in the stock set up. Power tested good again. Turned the key and she started right up. So, turns out something must be wrong with the MSD box. However, although she starts and runs, she is running really really rough. One of my spark plug wires came apart at the cap so I had to jimmy rig it back together and I think that is making it run on only 5 cylinders. Not 100% on that though, but as I changed the cap, rotor and coil in this process I figure I may as well get new plug wires and plugs. I'll check the timing to JIC.

I found the test section in my FSM, lol. Continuity should read 0 ohms correct?

so I should replace that?

My brother finally got home so was able to do a spark test. Came up negative, no spark. power transistor to the coil? excuse my ignorance, but is that a part of the coil itself?

Quick update. The only code I am getting is "21 Ignition". There is indeed a fuel pump code, but it is not showing. I also can hear the fuel pump working, and the fuel lines in the engine bay increase in pressure when the key is turned to the ON position. If I take the coil off my car will checker auto or somewhere be able to bench test it for me?

To check spark I just unplug a spark plug and hold it against a ground and crank correct? What serves as a good ground? body? will it have thrown a code if the pump went?

K, ill check all that. I've read that the pump sending unit wires can get corroded also correct? Is the sending unit on top of the pump itself? Can I just clean up the connection, or is it the unit itself that corrodes internally?

Looking for a 5 speed console.

Driving home today at about 50mph my engine suddenly cut out. I pulled over to the side and tried turning her over but although the starter was trying to get the truck to start it wouldnt. I let it sit for a moment, and then tried again - turned on, and I drove away, but then about 20 feet later it died again. Let it sit, but this time I couldnt get it to turn on. The starter was still trying though. Does this sound like a fuel pump failure? I couldnt hear it hum when I turned the ignition, but thought that might be because I had just been driving it.

Do you know if that 1998 Pathfinder is a 5 speed or an auto?

I just got mine done. I have no idea what the factory stuff is (for the WD21s I think it was around 15% though), but I can tell you that the Llumar Formula one stuff is great. It really cut down on the heat from the windows (Arizona sun no less) and as long as you get the "comfort series" or above it comes with a lifetime warranty that INCLUDES user error. So if your dog scratches the tint, or something you put in the truck scratches it, they will replace it free of charge.

Who here has used the OME lift springs in the back? how much lift do those give? I'm not getting the lift I need at the front to remotely level it out (in fact I need to turn it down a bit again - at this point proper alignment and longevity is more important). So I was thinking of swapping out my 3" (more like 4.5") springs for either the AC 1.75" springs or the OME springs. Need to know how much the OME springs really give though - I've heard everything from .5" to 2".

I like both 2 doors and 4. I would go for the first one you put up that already has a lift on it. Do the timing belt and you are set.

Yes, there is a tensioner that the ac belt attaches to above the water pump (edited because i put the wrong info initially)

My Garmin is great, and you can download files that create waypoints on it. Also, if you really want to spend the cash, Garmin has topo/trail maps of various regions that you can add to your unit.

Why do you want to relocate it exactly?

That's terrible and sad. My condolences to his family.

Look sweet. I have a set waiting to go on also.

Actually as long as you use the 3.0 intake on the 3.3 block the 3.0 ECU works just fine. Most everyone who has swapped a 3.3 in uses that setup and it works just fine - with increases in mileage and performance. Even those who have overbored to 3.4 use the 3.0 ECU. It should be able to compensate 15% anyway and many people have upgraded their ECUs by sending them to Jim Wolf or JET with great results.