beastpath

Yeah, its pretty bare on the insulation side of the coin. Dynamat that sucker and it might help...

IMO the only point to the e-fan swap is so you can switch it off for water crossings.

Cap is new I'll check the MAF tomorrow thanks! and I disconnected the MSD for now.

Ok - still can't figure this out. Ran the codes and they say 55 - all systems are go. Timing is dead on 15 btdc. Changed the fuel filter and air filter (has a full tune up now because of this, lol) - still shakes at idle. Motor mounts look fine. When revving the engine the shake goes away. Any ideas?

i thought they were slightly higher flow rates

thats the one!

i'll post a link to his domain when I get home (cardomain crashes the work computers). He doesnt have any install pics, just the finished product. It looks great though.

Thats why I'm trying to find one. It will work - a guy on cardomain did it to his WD21 and it looks sweet.

you could use the 3.3 injectors. they will fit into the rail, but you would have to splice the connectors into the harness as they use a clip style.

well I look forward to you testing that for everyone as those adjustable ones sure are spiffy! LOL - touche!

speaking of other specs, is there a reason places like Schneider and JW Tech don't just copy the specs Nissan Motorsports put out back in the day? I couldn't see it being copyright infringement - how can you copyright measurements?

That stinks man. But at least you can say you have true custom cams in there.

youd still have to take off accessory belts and the AC dampner to get to them each time. lol, that sounds like inviting it to break.

Those are cool and all, but do you honestly want to be tearing apart your timing covers every time you want to adjust them? I know I don't.

checker is an auto parts store. o'reilleys autozone napa or wherever will have them too.

yes they do. it was like 12 bucks for a set at checker

I finally got my truck running yesterday from the ignition circuit problem that my MSD box was giving me. It starts and runs, but shudders like crazy at idle and in low RPMS. Yesterday I changed out the ignition coil, cap and rotor, and this morning I changed out the spark plugs(NGK) and spark plug wires. Still shudders under 2000rpm and at idle, and there is less power when accelerating at lower rpms. Does this sound like a timing issue?

Well, I tested both my coil and my transistor per the FSM. Bought a new coil - and it tested exactly the same as my old one. Tried it - No go. Figured it was the transistor as it was showing a resistance of 2 ohms - FSM doesnt state if there should be any resistance, just to establish that there is continuity. Was going to look for one on thurs at a junk yard and give up for the night. Was looking through the FSM and realized I had not tested the ignition coil power wire for power when the ignition switch was in the ON position. I did so and got no reading, even though I was supposed to get ~12V. I have an MSD Offroad box spliced inbetween, so I followed it to the original wire and checked there. Hmm, there was power. Removed the MSD wires from the set up and reconnected the ignition in the stock set up. Power tested good again. Turned the key and she started right up. So, turns out something must be wrong with the MSD box. However, although she starts and runs, she is running really really rough. One of my spark plug wires came apart at the cap so I had to jimmy rig it back together and I think that is making it run on only 5 cylinders. Not 100% on that though, but as I changed the cap, rotor and coil in this process I figure I may as well get new plug wires and plugs. I'll check the timing to JIC.

I found the test section in my FSM, lol. Continuity should read 0 ohms correct?

so I should replace that?

My brother finally got home so was able to do a spark test. Came up negative, no spark. power transistor to the coil? excuse my ignorance, but is that a part of the coil itself?

Quick update. The only code I am getting is "21 Ignition". There is indeed a fuel pump code, but it is not showing. I also can hear the fuel pump working, and the fuel lines in the engine bay increase in pressure when the key is turned to the ON position. If I take the coil off my car will checker auto or somewhere be able to bench test it for me?

To check spark I just unplug a spark plug and hold it against a ground and crank correct? What serves as a good ground? body? will it have thrown a code if the pump went?

K, ill check all that. I've read that the pump sending unit wires can get corroded also correct? Is the sending unit on top of the pump itself? Can I just clean up the connection, or is it the unit itself that corrodes internally?

Looking for a 5 speed console.