beastpath

awesome. lol. the bumper will look cool too. you should post some pics of the b4 and after too

no worries. so how did you hit this tree.....?

is it the same as the green on my pathfinder? (in my avatar) if so then you have safari green. i cant see pics at work in order to tell

safari green was indeed a color option.

lol, you are right, I dont like the blue very much. Actually the guy I bought the brace from had already painted it black, I just touched up most of the areas where the blue was showing again.

I'm pretty sure the alt is just a rewound stock pathfinder alt. If the Z uses the same alt I think it would fit. I'll recheck that they are the same size when I get the chance.

the mean green is supposed to be 180 amps. I got the one from 4x4parts website so it was a little pricey, like $350 (my dad "convinced me" to get a new alt instead of doing the quest swap by giving me $200 hehe) thanks! I had been thinking about the bushing thing for a while. Would probably work for all the centerlink bushings.

Oh, and I got my Mean Green Alternator installed the other day too.

As I am waiting for parts to show up I figured I would do some things to the truck that I have been wanting to. Firstly, I remounted my taurus fan on the radiator using a piece of aluminum, and some furnature floor protectors as bushings: Then I FINALLY did my Calmini Idler arm brace, and made a centerlink-idlerarm bushing from a energy suspension tie rod bushing. IDK how it will hold up, but its got to be better than the rubber one that fell apart when I took off the arm. after cutting Just thought I would share.

yep, you are right. In fact my instructions from my B&M cooler stated that for 100% efficiency it should be placed in front of the A/C condenser, for 80% efficiency between the A/C condenser and radiator, and for 50% efficiency behind the radiator. Most kits, if not all, come with pads you can stick on the cooler to separate it from the radiator also.

turns out its not the hose after all, but a gasket that is on the piping connected to the hose. so regardless im going to have to take the manifold off. may as well replace the hose too while im in there.

it means I have to take the intake manifold off doesnt it?

Well....almost done, but ran into some snags. As usual. One of my t-bar bolts is completely stripped. So i have to order another....may as well order 2. And I found a coolant leak. Guess where? The infamous upper bypass hose. Coolant has been dripping out of it the whole time its been on jack stands. So there is another project for me. At least I know why I was overheating now....

you could try seafoam, although it did nothing for mine. or replace them again.

ok....stupid question here. I know the fill bolt is at the rear of the t-case, an how to undo it etc. How do I get the liquid in there though. Should I use some sort of pump?

almost done. pretty much just the wiring left. TWO shifters!

The Rancho 9000's are adjustable so you can be ready for what kind of driving you do

damn....maybe i shouldnt have sold my AC one to nunya.....lol my calmini brace is preowned so I know it bolts on. Sucks about that one though.

honestly I dont know. It could be your wheel bearings going out.

im up near desert ridge in north phx. Yep, I did the t-belt when my head gasket blew, and again when the waterpump failed. $45 sounds like a pretty good deal

its probably the seal behind the pulley. have to take the t-belt off to get to it. you have 2 options. 1. Leave it (if it is a very slow leak) and wait until the next timing belt change and do it then. 2. Rip apart the front of the engine and replace the seal (its actually not too bad of a job, and if you have a timing belt change soon you may as well do it now) I just realized you are in chandler! Hell, I'll give you a hand with it if you want.

what about sitting in traffic with no wind? lol how about this: a custom mid exit pipe which bends up and throws up the exhaust at the roof, could do one on each side. would probably only work on a 2 door though..

I guess I shouldnt have said the Redline is "hard to find" but rather that your general auto shops don't have it. JEGS got my order to me in 4 days. Any GL4 would work the same, or you could use ATF, order the Redline and re-drain/fill again later.

MT-90 is MT GL4 fluid that is made by the company Redline. It is supposed to be the "dogs bollocks" and most people on here will recommend it for your MT. Its a bit hard to find though, you can order it at summit and JEGS, and some 4x4shops have it in stock.

Power steering fluid? I thought it said ATF...shows what I know. lol Lots of people run redline MT-90 (especially if they have a MT: in case of a seal failure it wont do anything to your tranny). Its what I'm switching to. I had the ATF in there formerly.