nunya

Looks good, get him here so he can be pointed in the right direction with keeping it togher for a nice long time. What it's worth the 2gen 4runners rear "sag" is more cosmetic than it is actual sag(my wifes looks like it's dragging the rear bumper from strait on side looking, rockers are the same height front and back though)

my a/c does kick on ocassionally with defrost on , anyway back to the subject, make any progress?

I think Mexico has 08 D-21s...

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7703&st=0&p=97640&hl=transfer%20case%20&fromsearch=1entry97640 I was bored

We get an adjuster in the shop within the next cople days I'll try to squeeze some tips out of em for you too. As long as we get a good bender in...

That be your tensioner pully for the a/c belt IIRC. Bearing could be goeing in it. Loosen it and take the belt off, spin the pully by hand and listen/feel for your noise or a sticking bearing. Fire the truck up with no belt on that pully and see if the noise is gone(not too long if it also is the primary belt for the w/p or the alt). If so it might be time to think about taking a couple minutes to change it and put some new belts on since your there(a little preventive maintnance never hurts when your literally right there).

I was parked 2 blocks away on a parallel street.(used to have to on street park)

For the stuff IN the truck that wasn't PART of the truck (cds, tools, mp3 player, etc.) Check into your homeowners/renters insurance. Been broken into, auto ins only covered vechile damages in my case (They paid for the window, radio, dash trim that was ruined, and re-wire radio since they yanked the wires)but homeowners covered what wasnt bolted to the truck.

Ahh, always thought he had the bar off the j/y truck that was in his sig. pic.

Really it wouldn't take up that much room B...

Didn't he have a targa bar? Someone should go yank that and the BL off before it becomes a pop can...

Make sure your rotor don't have a big old crack in it too... makes mine sound horrible since it went the whole lenght of the stopping surface on the one side of my RR.

They make a narrower 31? I thought choices were 10.5 or 11.5 widths As stated do the chalk test, I'm runnign on the centers a little at 32(ish)psi right now. 50 would ride like a brick(worse then normally for me) plus wear the middle out in no time.

Meh, a little vibration to ignore now. At least it was just a driveshaft, could always end up worse.

Did you turn the dimmer switch down and not back up? Put it togher correctly AND plug it in? Not trying to be dumb, sometimes simple things can be overlooked.

I can't bite into the synthetic hype, 15/40 and Lucas, keeps my stuff alive.

Couple members here that can help you with that issue as well man. Alkorahil is high up or something in a Nissan Dealership's online sales thing or something along that line and SteeevO runs Rugged Rocks (which is where I got mine from a fiew months ago) just off the top of my head. You will see good reviews on dealing with both of them anytme their names are brought up

I remember someone here (don't remember who) recently doeing the front end collision thing, worked for them. Otherwise watch for a used set is my only advice.

More like why ain't the rest of it muddy?

Cut the whole bottom of the quarter panel off behind the wheel and make a flat piece o fmetal to connect the inner and outer panel? Seriousy just metal it now would be my suggestion or if tryign to wait for better weather bust out the duct tape for now. It peals back off and comes in colors.

You seem pretty much hell bent on doeing it, the general census seems to be nay-sayers, you seem to be pretty much planned, and I'm dumb with automatics. I say try, it's reversable right?

try switching the rubber hoses from one pump to the other, somebody may have had them off and mixed up which one went to which pump at some point.

Haven't owned a Nissan 4x4 yet with an engine light in it...

Had a converter come apart internally and plug itself up once with no warning, no rattles, no power loss. Shut it off, didn't start again untill dropping the y-pipe. Not trying to show you up, and it might have been a fluke thing, you just asked(and I don't think thats the problem here), as for the issues at hand, gotta agree with whats been already said with checking simpler things like cap/rotor listenign for f.pump etc...

Not an r50 person but gonna have to say thats a negative. Not all wd21s have the same setup (tbi/mpfi setups as an example) I would think r50s had some changes throughout their life as well.