nunya

Same thing I thought B, don't the world revolve around wd21s?

V8 grand Cherokee fronts.

What about that sensor by the filter? It broke off or maby leaking out the threads of it? note... I REALLY need to fix that wire for mine from breaking it during the starter swap...

What's wrong with cheapies? Carquest redbox brings the filtration of my lubrication to satisification! Yea and take the 3 seconds to give a little dab to the gasket

We were looking at them when we first decided it would be a good idea to have 2 SUVs as well... Bigger than we need though and I ain't a fan of payment books.

Bairly any action here since most of us and our 'old' wd21s and r50s keep on goeing and this place keeps THEM alive so not alot of need to buy newer ones Generally though(don't know what the top of an 05 looks like personally) on most vechiles I deal with that have all kinds of plastic crap in the way, I remove it for ease of gettign to stuff even if not "needed". Sometimes it just makes life alot easier taking out a plastic air box than trying to work around it even if it's possible/correct.

Gonna say you could use some new tune up parts... along with a starter

Pu ta good filter on it and some fresh oil, make sure the gasket is off the block from the old filter, fire it up and take a peek

Burnt bulb wouldn't cause a buzzing... Swap bulbs from side to side to make sure though that you don't have a bulb issue.

I like the clean install nice writeup for the r50 crowd it seems as well.

I paid $100 even for mine with 2 lights on it (That I gave to someone else) IIRC locally off a part out that the guy didn't really care. Does it have the gasket with it too? How many lights is it drilled out for? How many lights installed on it? How many you plan on installing? (btw it's a discontinued piece and I would gladly pay $125 for it personally if I didn't already have one)

Gravity bleed to me is crackign a bleeder loose with the mc cap off and walking away for a while until you get a steady fluid stream out of the bleeder( watching the fluid level, not really walking away). Doeing it in the correct bleed sequence. It has gotten me by until I was able to get someone to hold pressure on the pedal but I generally like to stick with the "have someone pump and someone work the bleeder" method.

How often do yo uactually "use" the rear seats as intended? If you don't maby take them out and make a "hidden compartment" type thing that levels with the cargo area floor that yo ucan securly store some out of site things in? For what it's gonna take to fit different seats in the front? Only help I can give you is wd21 and d21 I know will interchange, other than that I would suspect you need to help them fit... Hows that working out for you? I don't think my Eclipse seats are exactly comfortable in my Eclipse...

Fronts will bolt on, just not line up that great without help(they don't line up that great on HBs from what I've read in the past when I was gonna do them on a HB) The rears look horrible in my opinion, as GG said, look like a crappy dually not a smooth transition like the fenders. That and I have a dislike for 'glass pannels...

Ba-zing! Seriously you decide to fix it yet?

I got a chunk of button missing from my drivers belt buckle and both fronts retract slow, 1988 being the iffy year is gonna cause issues proably though. I still gotta call and try and if all goes well hopefully they don't but blue parts in, since thats what color my interior was

Yea... I'm a little confused as to what your looking at. As B said, you only have 1 idler arm (on the passanger side bolted to the frame).

Pretty blunt ad for someone with a HB in the background... Proably has issues he knows and don't want to spill out.

No button/switch. They activate by using the key in the lock(drivers side at least) or by manuely pulling the inside knob up or down. Wait till you figure out the rear seat backs recline a little!

At least MY1PATH's post. That is some awsome tech info there

Measure the rear tosay the bodyline (since the frame is different height front to rear) then set the front so it's level. That's what I'd personally do.

Don't expect that pipe dope crap to be a long term repair. Thats a "get what you pay for" repair...

Depends on the battery, cheapies ain't meant to be 7 years of abuse batterys. Heck don't optimas only have like a 3 year warranty?

What I can tell you could get it close enough to bolt stuff back up to it in a solid way with some bending and a fiew good whacks, maby a little flame to help persuade it back to shape. Theres a fender and marker light that will hide all sin once it's togher so it don't have to exactly be purty.

IIRC it's the gearing that matters not what transmission you got. You have to keep your front and rear gears matched. Don't go by interchange books since it's known there is no reason or rhyme as to how Pathfinders are optioned.