nunya

You truely don't get more clearance from the lift, your axles are still at the same height. Lift is so you can fit bigger tires which is how you vain complete clearance gains.

Rubber gets stiff when cold... How is your adjustment on them? Maby a snug on them will help bu tI'd say just replace them and get a good adjustment on them for piece of mind. Toss the old ones in the back as "just incase" spares...

I was more aimed at shift220 trying to compare a Sonoma core support swap to a wd21/d21 one, not really meant at you man. Sorry about that.

Sonoma/S-10 core supports are bolt on (and a simple one at that, it's why all the minitruckers have the 98+ clip). Ours are weld in. They ARE avalable but take a little time to see what you can do with some Manuel labor first I personally say (and remember, this ks coming from someone who admits to being lazy)

It wasn't low So they added a quart? I have to go with they didn't put enough in to begin with and don't want to admit it. What weight oil was used? If some stupidly low weight it could not have been thick enough to build pressure causing the light. Initial thought still lean to being low though...

Break out the welder and have some patience. Cosmetics can be done with some tin or patch/replacement panels.

BFH is your friend! I've straightened a couple tweaked ones to get fenders to line back up on HBs (and my Eclipse)

Disconnect the battery for a couple minutes and see if it clears out?

Hockey pucks are what 1" each? So thats 2 per bodymount + 10 bodymounts= 20 pucks. Pucks are what $2.00 a piece?(guessing) Theres $40. Plus nuts and bolts. Plus extending the fuel filler neck and vent tube. Plus dropping the hoop at the one brace. Plus other hardware I'm forgetting. Your proably gonna be at abou tthe same price as just buying a bodylift and not have the half-fast look of having crooked-drilled hockey pucks stacked between your frame and body. Belive me, I'm all for saving a buck and doeing some things quick and dirty, but thats a little out of my range.

Park where if you need reverse it's a downhill coast? Seriously though for the couple bucks it is I'd try some Lucas as said to try to get a couple more miles out of it. But plan on spending some $$$ to make it right... (Man am I happy I have a manuel)

Last time I pulled a complete driveline it was a 2wd HB and I was scrapping the remains so I cut the rad support out to have more work room. Make friends with a wrecker driver, can use the winch and boom to pull it out (that's my engine hoist at least)

#1 Will be at TDC (top dead center) at both compression and exhaust iirc... it's which valves are open that are different. Again, someone a little more knolidged on this particular subject should chime in soon

Not personally into the boom-boom stuff but it is a clean install and I want the old road crew looking 1/2 ton Ford in the background!

Hack it all off at the manifolds and do zoomies out the front fenderwells!

COuld the dist. be in 180 off? Like on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke? Someone will correct me proably, just thinking openly

nothign like knowing the future there! That one chunk of never-drying mud will fall directly in your face at the most inoportune time!

there should also be a strap on the bottom of each of the seat bottoms, they connect into the big screws to keep the seat secure and from rattling when in the down position.

I cut my factory brackets and re-welded them to make the bumper line up I wasn't even trying to figure out thse dumb things

They were so they knew which end of the truck was up when loading them on the boat to bring them over... It does make it nice for finding the seatbelts though if you do fold the seats for any reason, and as said looks neater when the seats are up to have the buckles banging from them.

Sounds like you done need a switch to me as well. Had the same thing with a HB, if you wiggled it around a little and found the magic spot it would blow high, and you had to smack the dash a couple times above it for the light to work for the heater controls afterwards. Nice thing about a reg. cab HB though is it was small enough you never really needed high so I never replaced it.

When phone poles attack! Be careful out there Slick, they are getting braver!

Agree, if you got it off, your better off just replacing it. Piece of mind knowing both the gasket and pump are new is priceless compared to "should I have..." For like $40(plus shipping) you can get pump & gasket from rockauto.com (just looked) and who knows if you call your local parts stores, could be cheaper...

They are the ones I got JamesRich(actually were off a HB so I had to make my own rear brackets since they didn't line up). Jackign up on one and RESTING the weight of the truck is a little different though than a good whack to the bottom of one with some momentum goeing.

I just want to know what the SE "off road" package has that's so special... And ignore beastpath, he secretly loves and wishes he had red interior.