nunya

Front end have greese fittings anywhere? (sorry I don't know the newer ones too well) If so try giving the front end a good lube to see if it quiets down a dry tie rod end or ball joint...

Yup, you threw them away. Look at it as a chance to buy one that don't sound like a Civic now!

Your front pads have 20% left you say. That means your front calipers have the pistons extended out some, which in turn will make your brake fluid "low" since it will be in the calipers and not the resivour. The resivour being down some is tripping the sensor letting you know through the light (generally shared light with the e-brake). Get a set of pads on the front, get the rears checked then if still a little low top the fluid off to the fill line.

The basics and all improtant timing belt have already been mensioned. When checking fluids though, do more than under the hood, make sure your front and rear differentials are full. Take a peak underneath to make sure your brake and fuel lines are all decent looking( while there check your frame to make sure your solid). Give your brakes a nice once over, ck u-joints, cv shafts&boots(front axles) and give everythign with a greese fitting a shot with the old greese gun. Check the front end for excessive play in wheel bearings,ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. All things that can basicly be checked by yourself that will only really cost you some time. Always nice to know things that are supposed to be snug aint fallign off and moving parts do so nicely...

Some people like different?(to this part of the world at least)

Is it just me or is this turning into a flashback debate?

http://www.dol.wa.gov/vehicleregistration/emissions.html Don't personalyl feel like reading it but it might help you.

I know, just some locksmiths have mobile service and might be worth the extra buck for someone who reads this some time in the future and don't want involved in pulling the ignition out. Just an added suggestion to add to the list of already good ones that covered the basics already

It's done for...just buy a new truck and donate that one to a member in need. Seriously though, just call a locksmith. Either take it to them or sometimes they come to you. No need to pull the ignition then!

As said by B, some kind of penetrant on bolts is your friend, have a drain pan and some rags, and take a break to wipe tools and hands clean on occasion. The fluid can make things slippy and make grip a little challanging for some people.

Shippign will be a kick in the wallet but talk to some of the overseas people here about prices on getting parts sent to you for a RHD conversion. Be less hassle and cheaper than buying a complete truck and shipping it over plus you get to make it part of the truck you already know and love! (Trust me, if I wasn't broke/cheap I'd have more info about all exactly needed)

3" bodylift makes a world of difference for removal. I reach right between the frame and body, throw a coupel rags ontop of the starter, unscrew it and let it drop to the floor. I don't remember if I squeezed the new filter between the frame/body for instalation though...

Do you have a steering stabalizer...if so is the shock worn? Front shocks a little on the old side? Front suspension in good shape with minimum wheelplay? (tie rod ends/ball joints/wheel bearings/contorl arm bushings/etc.) Tires out of balance? Just a starting point of things to check.

Reverse light or 4x4 light switch maby? It's a white 2 door man! Knock em down as much as possible and scoop it up!

Snow means salt here... I like snow, I HATE salt

Not to add to your confusion but that brake rotor looks a bit grooved up. How much of those brake pads are left too? Kind of looks thin on the pad I see...

My "high quality pre-owned" one worked normally(I think) since the day I jammed it under there

Thats a brush guard, not a bumper. Proably best watching classifieds here or craigslist for a factory one.

You have to reset you radio presets and settings man, you DID disconnect the battery during the switch...right?

Welcome to the world of wd21 Pathfinders! Only thing your gonna beat is a 3.0 4runner!

Might have got a defective alt. Wouldn't be the first time I've heard of defective new parts. (Heck one time with a Ford Contour since we are talking alts., went through 4 new ones before getting one that actually charged)

Your still charging a battery you juiced a bit driving on the bad alt. You load test the battery to make sure you didn't hurt it?

Was goeing to suggest leaky heater core, but that would be the passanger side floor only from my past experiences with most cars...

You just haven't been around long enough to know him. Just how he comes off at times.

OK, this went a little off topic... still gonna add my .02 though. For the Explorer issue, they DID have the TTB front end, which I have mixed feelings about but is a big plus to some. Their tire issue is due to the 26psi recommended on the tag on the door jam (have a 94 at work we're parting, made it a special point to actually look for once) and people actually reading it and following it. Why can't they do that when the info is good? Heated seats? Not for me, last tiime I checked I was of the male statue (no offence Pezzy and Slick) and am able to wait 2 minutes for my clotch seat to warm from my body heat. Yes I hate leather interior. I don't like to stick to it in the summer. Power seats? Hell I think power mirrors are dumb let alone seats. I am the only one getting in the drivers seat of my truck, I sit the same fairly normal way all the time (I don't lean into the back seat, I enjoy seeing over the dash). Then those power seats that adjust themselves...always tend to be owned by short people who don't warn me so I REALLY hate them. Toby, GG's opinion is just that... his opinion. No need to get bent about it.