nunya

Laxman has a set from a s/c Xterra on his, he would be the one to ask if they have to be messed with at all.

Have to agree there. "Sure buddy, it's X ammount. Cash prefered..." Like when I sold a set of wheels on CL, they were 4 lug wheels (with 2 seperate lug patterns). Guy that actually came pulls in with a Neon. He insisted they will fit because of all the holes, I tried once to tell him his car was 5 lug then took his money after he told me they will still fit. He never did call back to tell me I was right. Guessing he either re-sold them or busted studs off so they would work... Reminds me I need to put those stupid Falkins on so I don't have to look at them anymore too.

What now?

Quick power? Step 1. Open hood Step 2. Remove radiator cap Step C. Push truck from spot Step 4. Push a car with power into spot Step Square. Re-install radiator cap onto new car Step orange. Close hood Step 7. Turn key and enjoy! Or...engine swap? And you don't know power like a KA powered HB on 31"s with a bad head gasket dumping coolant into the block. I did have a Yohimura carbon fiber silencer off of a GSXR on it for like a month... that added awsome hp!

I picture the sound of an older, unmaintained diesel work truck after the sound of pieces hitting the bottom of the hood-honestly. Reminds me of a Cavalier that comes in the shop regularry with a Mopar Performance Parts sticker on the back.

More like bored and lucky. Some ricer will pay high dollar for that. NOS!!!! FOR THEIR VTEC!!!! SO THEY CAN POWERSHIFT!!!! sorry, still don't see you winning any street race, bottle or not but there is proably some time it could be nice to have a little extra to turn the rubbers.

Brake fluid change? I personally don't know but my theory is--- Your goeing to break a line eventually and it's gonna make you lose a good ammount of fluid and last time I checked the stuff is new in the little white can from the parts store. Seriously though I never heard of anyone making a special trip to change brake fluid (except maby GoPathyGo with all the brake issues he had)

Why don't you just get the correct K&N filter since it seems all your trying to do is make some setup to run one you have laying around. Nothing against tryign to build a better mousetrap here, but it seems like your just making a tail chaser here, especially if your goeing to use the same air intake spot... Are you actually goeing to run piping outside of the engine bay to make it a true cold air intake? If so where is the inlet goeing to be?

Crap gets caught between the flares and panels, just spraying don't do too much there.

Gotta watch if you got a SOB trooper as well, Hope your smarter and can still be nice about it. Got a couple PA Trooper stories. (and IIRC the flares are only allowed to be 3" bigger than factory equipped ones 'legally')

Holding it for a picture don't mean using it Simon

Greese will hols some dirt and grime, but it's what I also do to quiet the sound down. Cheap, easy, and takes about 10 seconds.

Tools-to put it bluntly I have a full auto repair shop at disposal, not goeing to try to list them. Clothes- my work clothes and work boots work great as my "play" clothes since I don't have to clean them in my home wash machine.( well my wife don't have to). Ocasonally they become a old pair of jeans, beat up t-shirt, and my mid grade pair of cheap shoes. (have 3 of the same generic shoes. 1 clean, 1 work/play, 1 held togher with tape that I just won't throw away).

And I just scrapped a set of 5 from a Trooper...maby I should have checked. They are 6 lug I know that much at least.

At least you didn't get a bunck of angry people typing "SEARCH!!!" over and over again (which would have saved you some headaches if you did)

That might be a year difference thing too, I had wd21 flares on the back of my 91 HB reg cab which later in it's life had a bed from a 96 king cab on it. Mounted different ways but fit perfectly Do remember they were off a 4 door wd though(don't rememebr what exact year though).

Like MY1PATH said, you only NEED the alt and w/p turning with the crank. It's just nice to HAVE the a/c and p/s. They are more like creture comforts than necessitys depending on the person. Proably not the best over a long period of time if you plan to put a belt back on and use it again. The old leave it sit-goes to sh err...crap theory comes to play. Them bearings ain't moved in a while, they may not want to when woken back up.

The sidewalls bulge a little on the chromie homies... I wouldn't go bigger than a 44 incher

Don't know if maby upper and lower pins are different lengths It should go in further if the correct length. Clean the pin good and lube everything up nice with some brake lube(normally a little packet with the pads, not enough to do the whole job but should help your issue).

as long as you got it togher.

B may be joking a little about the 20-50 part but I fully agree with some thick regular high mileage oil and a bottle of Lucas. I think that stuff is what keeps my motors from blowing to pieces between the fenders...

I think your just missing rear bumpstops man...I got the 'figure 8' rubber ones that are pretty flexable.

FWIW, when I changed front shocks I somehow slightly bent the tab on one side and couldn't figure out for my life why the bolt wouldn't start. After realizing what I did, a slight tap with a hammer on the tab with the captive nut and I was alligned and threaded.

Heck for $300, buy it-strip it of just body panels and you got your moneys worth. Add glass, interior, driveline parts... sell some off, scrap the shell and you make a couple and have a pile of extra stuff

Yea it even is advertised as the Trailmaster lift. Thats the one that drops the torsion bars IIRC, Was always a little scared of how open it makes the bars out from the protection of between the rails.