nige

remove the plastic cover covering the inside of the hatch. be careful when you take them apart. sometimes you tear the clips off the plastic panel. Once you get that panel off, you should be able to see the motor and associated wiring. I've never removed my motor, but it was sticking a while ago and i took the hatch panel off to see if there was something wrong. I ended up having to lubricate the bolt the wiper arm attaches to from the exterior of the vehicle. It worked fine after i cleaned some corrosion off and relubed it.

little bit of column a, little bit of column b

yeah lifters are more of a clacking sound

maybe it has something to do with the EGR system. It recirculates some of the exhaust gas to the intake when the engine is cold. There are a bunch of valves and vacuum lines in that system that need to be operating properly for the truck to run smooth. a clogged or leaky pcv valve will also cause driveability issues so check that too, it's quick and easy. you can use your universal o2 sensor, it's just a lot of extra work to drill and tap the bigger hole it requires, plus the current sensor might be working properly but the wires are faulty so replacing your sensor will not solve the problem. I wouldn't go replacing it yet because it sounds to me like your problem lies within the egr system because of the different symptoms when the engine is hot and cold. for reference, my truck never revs above 1500rpm regardless of how how cold it is outside. around1200 is normal for a cold (-10-0 C) day. once its warmed up, it should hang around 725rpm.

oh yeah, loopy idling can be cause by bad vacuum lines too. be sure to check them all for cracks, pinches and snugness.

this has also happened to me. mine would start fine, but as soon as you step on the gas it would sputter. didn't matter if the motor was cold, it would get the same problem. I unplugged it and it ran much better. once i replaced the sensor, it ran fine again. it would probably be easier to trade/sell your universal o2 and get the proper part for our trucks. Sometimes the problem can lie within the wires connecting the sensor to the harness. The only way to know for sure is to use a voltmeter to test them. A good OEM replacement o2 sensor should include new wires and a connector like bosch, denso and oem nissan parts. try factorynissan.com and see if Alkorahil will help you out with one. i use the oem nissan or bosch if it helps at all. i usually get a couple years from them if i can manage to keep water out of the tail pipe

you can get a wider stance by buying new wheels. depending on how wide a tire you get, 7" or 8" with neutral backspacing is good. i have an extra 1/4" of negative spacing and a 12.5" tire just barely peeks past the factory flares. btw use the 'more search options' feature when looking through old threads. it works way better.

this should help, but don't do it with the engine running

don't forget to clean out the slide pins on the front calipers. there is a how to thread in the garage section. what part is rusted on the drums?

i don't think he is looking for a mud tire. emptyv, i am using BFG AT's over the winter months and i am pretty happy with those tires too. I was also impressed with the Bridgestone Dueler AT's that Pezzy uses on her R50. I haven't had any experience with the pro comp AT tires, and it's rare that i ever drive on sand so i can't really help you out. Maybe Fueler can recommend some good AT tire for you. he lives around your area and goes out in the desert to wheel. I don't think you would be disappointed with BFG AT or the Dueler AT's

nice truck, i would love a manual those racks look a little narrow to hold a snowboard no? you could use a single yakima or thule rack that clamps between the front doors over the sunroof and put your lights on that

wouldn't it bend the other end link? those turned out nice Dave!

i have MT's and i like mine

just put the control arms on and don't crank the torsion bars too much. leave an inch between the UCA and the upper bumpstop and you should be fine. most people wreck cv's because they don't replace torn boots

ask them what the rancho part # is for the rear shock. try to get rs5112's they are the longest

try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if the driveability improves. If it does, that is your culprit.

a body lift and bigger tires will net you more ground clearance

o2 sensor?

i have the 3" lift coils. They are pretty stiff and have no trouble holding up the rear of my truck.

don't forget the extra cost to mount and balance the tires what gears do you have? I put 32x11.5 bfg at's on my legos and they feel like a decent size tire, not too big and not to small. They do rub the outside of my frame when i stuff them though.

lol glad to hear it was something simple. The e-at button helps out when you towing or super hilly roads. it does a number on your mileage tho. listen to 88 and get a tranny cooler. do a search and there is lots of info on how to install them. They are pretty easy to do.

pulling someone out of the ditch is one i cna think of.

i am not familiar with the DRL unit but you might be able to make it work with the relays that has 1 extra output pin (usually called 87a). The pin marked 87 gets power when the relay is turned on and the 87a pin gets power when the relay is turned off. Maybe there is a way to hook the 87a pin up to the lights so when the relay is turned off, they still supply power to the lights, but not as much as they do when the relay is turned on. I don't think you would need 4 relays, you could probably get away with using 2. I am thinking about doing this myself, i'll check the FSM and see how the DRL module works.

are you sure you didn't leave your transmission in the power mode? Its that AT-ET button on the dash. It's also normal for the auto to shift at higher RPM when it's cold. It should also have an abrupt shift between 1-2 gear

check to make sure the rubber o ring around the dial is in good shape so it doesn't leak dirty water in there again. Also check to make sure the paper gasket is also good. Clean them out, re-lube them with light oil and put them back on. You can try putting a drop of blue loc-tite on the mounting bolts to keep them from backing out.