nige

a lot of toyota trucks came with standard rear locking diff. i liked the look of them and the way the torsion bars attach to the UCA instead of the LCA. They were too much money for what u were getting though

X2 glad i could help out tom

i have a stupid automatic, but they fit relatively well. The y pipe had enough clearance between the frame and also between the tranny oil pan. The y pipe does hang a little low, but i was able to get my black panther skids on with like 2mm of spare room Rowdy Canuck from the 4x4parts.com message board had to seriously modify his, you'll have to search that message board to find out what was wrong with them, i forget. I think i am going to get my ECU tuned when i have my snorkel, because i think the aftermarket headers, cat and muffler make the truck's mixture a little rich. I'll have to find someone around Toronto to do that for me. I bet it will make a huge difference in the way it runs after you upgrade your exhaust and intake like that.

are you flicking any switches, etc when the fuse pops or does it seem to 'do it on it's own'? also, have you run dedicated power lead with your inline fuse to the battery? or have you scooched the power off some other circuit for the radio? also, what model radio do you have? mine is a 7894 and it calls for a 20a fuse, but some other models call for 15, 10 and even 5a

hahahah i love the corner light hanging on for dear life in your first pic

i got mine from Rocky Road Outfitters They are selling them for $350. Most likely the nickle plated ones.

do you still have your factory wheels? I keep a set of MT's on the pro comp wheels for summer/wheeling season and i have some bfg at's on my old factory lego wheels for the winter. I couldn't imagine how fast the salt would ruin the pro comp's with thier raw aluminium finish. U could always pick up some black steelies w/ 4" b.s. for the winter and run your nice wheels in the summer time.

i wanted those wheels pretty bad when i first started shopping. They stick out pretty far with the 15"x8" size (3 5/16" backspacing) so i don't think you could run very wide of a tire on them without rubbing on the fenders at full lock. They would probably fit a 31x10.5" with a little rubbing. I ended up getting procomp 1069's which are 15x8 with 3 3/4" backspacing so they are a little narrower track and have the same nice 8-hole trucker style pattern

ah you have a 5-speed so it's a little easier for you. Us suckers with auto trannies have to spend some extra time bending the tranny cooler lines out of the way before you can slide the starter out the front end. FYI, i have a calmini steering and i had to turn the wheel all the way to one side before i had enough room to get it out. They recommend you replace the inhibitor relay at the same time you do the starter, but i never bothered.

i wrapped my fittings in teflon tape before i assembled everything. my old man bitched at me because he thinks there is a chance of bits of teflon tape finding it's way into the oil circulation system. The fittings still leak a tiny but. It's enough to saturate the exposed threads, but it doesn't drip or anything.

check your local hardware shop for a wire wheel that is used for cleaning out the insides of tubes. hopefully you can put it on your drill and scrub the rest of the rubber out.

i only replaced the upper ones. I never even had any on the bottoms. All you need for measurements in the inside diameter and the outside diameter of the coil. You don't have to get the 'D' measurement as thick as i did because those coils give you quite a bit of lift, but if you want maximum, then go for them. Lay a ruler or tape across the coil as centered as you can get and eyeball it. One thing to note, is i had to cut the lip down to the pad in order for them to squeeze into Calmini springs on my truck. I guess my measurement was a little off. They have a table on the energy suspension site that gives the measurements of thier isolators. I chose Style A, but i suppose you could use Style B or C too. E.S. Isolators The first column of the chart is the part number. Your local store should be able to find them by that so they can order them for you.

check my thread in the member's rigs section. I put a link in there for the coil seats i used.

hahahha i am used to things taking 2x as long to complete and 2x as expensive as i anticipated when working on my truck. There always seems to be some new problem I discover when i start an upgrade/repair/service

yeah you can get them from nissan or you can buy urethane ones from energy suspension dealers. just bring the spring in with you when you order them to get the proper size. this is similar to the compressors i used: spring compressor

yeah i echo what precise1 says. The AC 3" lift coils are the tallest and heaviest spring i have had in the rear of my truck. Spring compressors would make the job much easier. Be careful when you are using them though. Never loosen one side of the compressor before you do the other side too. And don't use an impact gun or power tool to compress/release the clamps. They go too fast and are too easy to make a mistake. Just take your time and use your head and you will have no problem. You can usually rent them free of charge from your local auto parts store. Did you get some new coil spring isolators too? or are you re-using the stock rubber ones?

you don't need a brush guard to mount lights. You can remove the front bumper and drill holes right in the top of it. bolt the lights up in the holes you drilled and tighten them down. If your bumper is thin and flimsy, you can add 2 large washers to sandwich the bumper before you thread the nut on for extra stability. If you go this route you should choose some lights that have shallow reflectors like ipf 968's or the hella 500's. That way you won't run into clearance issues between the back of the light housing and the grille.

woot!

2 of mine were snapped off when i installed my skid plates. I drilled out one of them, but on the second one, i broke off a drill bit in the hole and there is no way i can get it out of there now. My front skid is held on with 2 instead of 3 bolds until i can drill and tap new holes. You should clean out the other mounting hole threads with a tap and some oil. It makes it way easier to thread the mounting bolts in by hand. I have these rhino ramp things that you can pull the truck up on top and it gives you about 8" of extra room to work under there. I lay down on the crawler and balance the skid plate on my chest or knees while i bolt it up.

yeah, that was a big question for me when i was figuring out what to do to protect the under carriage. The Thorley header crossover pipe is a little larger diameter than the stock pipe and it hangs about 1 1/2" lower. I never had to use a spacer, but i think marcel may have made them hang a little bit lower than the originals that he made. They fit just about perfect with a few millimeters of clearance between the plate and the x-over pipe. If it didn't fit, marcel gave me a spacer to put under the front of the front mounting point of the transmission skid plate. I would have had to get some longer hardware, but it would work fine. If you do get them and find out they don't fit, send me a pm and i'll give you the spacer he gave me. It makes the trans and front skid hang about 3/4" lower. If you look in the pic i posted, you can see the x-over pipe through the two holes in the center of the plate. I have them off for the winter, so if you want me to take a pic to show how close the fit is, you'll have to wait until spring time when i get the truck ready for wheeling again.

whoa that's expensive for tires. No wonder you choose a Brazillian brand over having something shipped down to you. Are you able to Simex tires down there? Or do you only find them in Australia and the pacific rim? I understand what you're saying about not using them very often. When summer comes back to Canada, I may just leave these BFG A/T's on and only use my mud tires when i am going 4x4'ing for the weekend or whatever. It only takes me about 1/2 hr to change my tires now than i have an impact gun and air compressor. I trimmed a little bit of metal off the back of the front fender, and them i hammered the pinch-seams flat and repainted them. I used an angle-grinder with a cut off wheel to do that job. I also used aircraft aluminum tin snips to trim the plastic fender flares.

those look pretty big, wide and grippy Fernando i like the black lego wheels too where are you rubbing? right on the very front of the front fender flare? I had to cut some plastic and metal off the front and rear of my front fender flares to make my 33's fit. Yours probably won't rub when you do your suspension lift; only when you stuff a tire. In the rear flares, i replaced all my mounting hardware with round-cap bolts so the lugs don't get caught on them. I never had to cut any plastic off them. They are quite flexible if you pinch one between the tire and body

hella 500's are nice lights, but you can't use them when anybody is around. That pretty much goes for all types of driving lights. They come with instructions and are easy to install

those tires feel like they are too wide for a snow tire and like everything else but snow tires, they suck on ice. i would have been better off with 33x10.5 or a 9.5" bfg a/t but nismojunky gave me too good of a deal to pass these up. Considering they hook up nice on packed snow, i bet they work pretty good on dry trails and don't look at my fenders

sorry it took so long Fernando, but i have been a little busy lateley. The tires are nice, but they don't work on snow and ices as good as i thought they would let me know if you want bigger pictures!