nige

i'm on the same page as 5523Pathfinder. save 'em for around the campfire

yep, you can 'unlock' a bit more travel out of the rear end by adding some longer shocks and removing the rear sway bar, but I don't think there is a kit out there that will give the trucks more articulation. You can make longer rear links like some other members have done. get some under armor and sliders.. then you don't need the clearance

it might help a little bit, but there is so much extra weight with a bigger tire. remember the stock size it 31x10.5 on 15x7's and there is a big difference between that and a 13.5" tire on a 15x10" wheel. The UCA's will have a little more stress on them, but you will more than likely be bending tie rod ends and idler arms as soon as you start doing bouncy hill climbs. Ask 88pathoffroad. He has wider 33"x13.5x15 super swamper ltb's on his truck, but i don't recall him ever having a lot of steering trouble after he installed them. He also had them mounted on 15x8" wheels IIRC, not 15x10 which i think is too wide for these trucks. Giancarlo runs 33x12.5 on 15x7's and he hasn't reported any problems with them and he wheels his truck pretty hard.

i have the calmini steering kit on my truck and it has worked great this season, but i have only run 3 or 4 trails so far with the 33" tires. I lucked out and found a used kit on the 4x4parts.com board for $300. If i didn't find that deal, i most likely would have went with hoohaa's product. I haven't heard anything bad about it at all. If you are going to wheel your truck on rocky terrain, consider buying some sort of skid plates before you get the lift. I will buy the armor first with the next truck i build up (unless i buy another pathfinder ) GrimGreg's suggestion is the most cost-effect solution to getting a little lift out of your suspension. Just don't raise the front end too high or you run into all sorts of problems from alignment to premature steering and cv joint damage.

i am using a 8" wide wheel with 3.75" of back spacing. At full compress and lock, it makes lots of contact in the front end. They also make contact in the rear of the rear fender when the axle is tucked. You can cut away the bottom corners and try to roll them back so they aren't so sharp. Mine were a little rusty, so the tire did all the work for me. Mine still rub a little, but it's so rare that it happens that i don't really care. The insides of the rear tires do not make contact with the frame a full stuff either. my other tire was not even close to coming off the ground. it's a good thing the factory flares are flexible I hear a 15x8" wheel with neutral backspacing (4") works a little better.

i am pretty sure both shifters are the same i think i removed 2 bolts and then pulled the stick toward the driver's side frame. It only has to come out about a centimeter before it pops out of the guide holes and you can either push it up in the cab or drop it out the bottom. I don't recall undoing the ball joint parts. Bender and I bent my t-case shifter to make it fit. We took it off and on about 4 times before it was clearing everything properly. The finished product was in the shape of a lightning bolt

about 4 hours or so. i like to take my sweet-assed time

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there is a hatch in the rear cargo area that allows you access to the top of the tank where the pump is. you have to lift up the carpet. it's in the middle like nismojunky said, you should be able to hear the whirring noise of the pump when you turn the key to on. if you can't hear it, have a friend turn the key while you are closer to the tank listening. then you will know if it's at least getting power.

hey mike glad i could help alaskan. you can drive your truck around with the sensor unplugged, but it may adversely affect your fuel economy; keep and eye on it. Sometimes a broken o2 sensor is caused by an improper air/fuel mixture. you can replace the sensor and the truck should run good when you plug the new one in. If you had a cel; you will need to reset the computer. To do this, unhook your battery terminals, and push all the buttons inside the car; move windows etc, try to get the last of the electric current out of the system. leave the battery off for about 5-10 minutes to be sure, then hook it all back up and start the truck and go for a test drive. The CEL shouldn't come back on unless there is another problem with the system.

try unplugging the O2 sensor under the hood and see if it improves driveability. You could check all the vacuum lines for cracks too. Your fuel pressure regulator is also back there by plug 6. the vacuum line is prone to slipping off or getting bumped off when you change that 6 plug

oo that's a code 3 call for the" OFF ROAD RICE POLICE

yeah if it's of any consolation to you; i would have taken that driver's side fender had it fit mine

just paid for itself right there

that turned out really nice! I like the extra arch over the winch you added to mount up lights It is also considerably lighter than the ARB. I bet yours plus the winch weighs in a shade heavier than an empty ARB do you have to cut the grille to make room for the winch? If it's not too much work i would move it up.

i am pretty sure they are all the same from 1990-1993. The dash got a little update in 1994-1995 years, but i think the rest is the same. The fenders, bumpers and rear body mounts might be a little different, but i need someone to verify that for me.

I think Iron Locust has the best idea by putting all the electronics on the ceiling of the cab. you will have to extend a lot if wires to do it, but you can pretty much guarantee you will never get it wet and if you do, you have a lot more to worry about than a wet ecu. I put mine in the glovebox, but it's not safe there either as you can see from what happened to SkinnyPedal last year: you could always carry a spare, but be aware that the donor vehicle's transmission has to be an automatic if yours is an automatic. If you have a manual transmission; you can use either an automatic or manual trans donor ecu.

yep don't worry. every time a pathfinder dies in the CNTC, we have a pick and pull party for it prior to sending it off the the junkyard/donating to the firefighters for practice. There are a few parts of Simon's Old red in my truck, as well as another old member who had to junk his old pathfinder. mind you they weren't in accidents like yours, but yeah, when then time comes for mine, i will be a little sad too

Check your fluid level and look for leaks. Are you hauling heavy stuff/going fast? I haven't heard of any fading problems with these brakes, and you really have to heat them up before you notice fade. Don't ride the brakes down hills either. It will prematurely wear them out.

if it's such a stupid idea, why do most manufacturers build sliders that bolt to the frame as opposed to weld on? i am not ripping on your method, but if you are going to sh!t talk one, at least enlighten us as to why it's not recommended

Nice sliders! I have also been told it is better to make up some C-brackets that will bolt around the frame instead of welding directly to it. Especially when the frame has already been weakened by rust. I think kos was showing a picture of his step-bar mounts (not sliders) as an example.

hey, if it's not too late, try unplugging the O2 sensor under the hood and see if it drives better without it. Mine just crapped out on me and it was stumbling and missing like crazy. i could barely inch along flat pavement. I unplugged it and it is running much better now. I'll have to replace the sensor.

it could be a short in the same circuit that the parking interlock switch it on. The one that only lets you start the car if it's in park. i would check the battery first like the rest of the guys say. if it was the battery, once you get it running, check your alternator output too.

try 4". I think the legos are around 4.5" or 5" i have never measured one

what a big difference between plain water and the salt solution! I don't know if it produces enough to solely run on HHO, but i agree with you in the second video, there is definitely enough gas being produced to impact your mileage when mixed into the gasoline fuel supply. Where would you introduce the gas to the fuel delivery system? Could you run a line to the intake box or would you need something similar to a nitrous oxide injection system like the drag racers use? Pretty cool so far, keep up the efforts David