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Everything posted by nige
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oooo duff luck zonianbat. Glad you are fine and don't worry, we all make mistakes.
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motorstorm for the ps3 is pretty fun, but it's an offroad racing game
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the tire will rub against the inside of the wheelwell and possible the side of the frame when it is tucked. If you have an automatic transmission, they might make your OD gear useless depending on what gears you have. Mine barely gets into OD unless the ground is nice and flat and the winds are low. i am 3" suspension lift and 3" body lift like Simon only i have 33x12.5" tires (a tiny bit smaller). I have 15x8" wheels with 3 3/4" backspacing and i had to do lots of trimming and mine still rub. a 33x10.5 tire on the stock lego wheels or 15x8 with neutral backspacing would probably be a nice fit.
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see if your exhaust gas recirculation valve is sticking too. do you have a factory service manual? they have really good troubleshooting sections.
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i think the cheapest would be use the rough country uca's, and some junkyard jeep grand cherokee coils for the suspension, then get a 3" body lift from 4x4parts.com you will want to reinforce the steering if you are gonna wheel with 33's or 35's search around the garage section for usefuls tips
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if you mean the threaded part has seperated from the white part and is left in the head, you will need a tool called and extractor to remove it. These tools are sometimes called easyouts. They look like this: take care not to break the easyout off in the head otherwise you're really be snookered you can avoid stuck plugs by applying anti-sieze compound to the plug thread prior to installing
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i put an external speaker right above my right knee. you can see it in the pic
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my brother used to work in car detailing and he said this is what they used to clean leather: Lexol
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mink oil prevents the leather from drying out and cracking. it keeps it pliable and soft and never lets salt get into the pores and make the leather stiff. I use the liquid glass protectant (yellow bottle). Grimgreg is correct, it is only a protective layer. it does nothing to clean the leather. Ghostpath, you'd better back up that statement about how it rots the leather. Rotting is caused by moisture, and the mink oil is supposed to repel moisture. I could understand if someone hastily applied the oil before the seats were dry, but they would have to do that all the time. I could see the mink oil trapping moisture in the leather and not letting it breathe and evaporate the water. I asked my brother and he said don't use products with silicone in them. He confirmed it would rot seats but your car would be long gone by then
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i like this liquid glass stuff. it seems to soak in better than eagle one and meguiars. probably 'cause if the mink oil in it. liquid glass never tried the tandy leather stuff, but more often than not, the harder it is to work in, the longer it's gonna last. if it's good enough for horse saddles, it will stand up to what you can dish out to your car seat. i use a mild soap (one made from animal fat) with warm water and soft cloth to clean them. don't use anything harsh and try not to sit in them if they are really damp. i have already ripped the bottom seam twice on my seats.
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silicone as it somewhat makes a water-resistant coating. you should also rinse it out with water asap after going through mud or chocolate milk never spray your alternator when the car is running. if you spray it with something flammable (wd40) you run the risk of burning yourself.
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I think the easiest way to do it is take the hose going into the cooler and stick it in an empty pail, then take the the house going out of the cooler and stick it in a pail full of fresh fluid. Have someone make sure you don't suck any air in the hose and cycle through all the gears while the truck is in idle. It should pump all the old fluid out and replace it with the new stuff in the pail.
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Good list Slick Might I add, I like to test my alternator and give it a good pre-spray to prevent mud and dirt sticking to it. Also, don't forget to let people know where you are going and when you should be back. NEVER GO ALONE unless help is close by!!! don't forget to check you spare tire pressure too!
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A BUMBER MADE IN ARGENTINA by TANOBALDI
nige replied to janolopsen's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
that is really nice. I like the fog lights that are mounted inside. The rock sliders looks sturdy too. -
OK now that i have trimmed my fenders, I get no rubbing (well a tiny bit on the rear or the rear fender flare, but not damaging) I noticed that the weather seal on the front doors is exposed where the bottom of the fenders usually cover. No one here has had any problem with water getting in there? I ended up using a grinder with a cut-off wheel attachment, a stone grinding disc for touch ups, tin snips for the flares, a drill for making new holes in the flares, and a big hammer to flatten down the pinch seam. I ended up using some round headed metal screws to attach my rear flares with. Once you get rid of the stock hardware with the hex heads, the tires do not rub on anything when tucked up (without rancho rs5112 shocks). I will take a picture and show you what i've done. it was very simple and cheap with minimal drilling. I am running 33x12.5 pro comp mt's on 15x8 wheels with 3.75" of backspacing.
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i don't think you should have and trouble painting the wheels. They should be sandblasted and sprayed with primer before you paint them for best results. post a picture when you are done! The film doesn't sound like a bad idea too. The city buses here have the film on them to show advertisements. All i can say, is make sure the paint is very clean before you apply the film. Any oils or dirt on the paint and the film will not stick to it. mods, since we have a lot of latin users, maybe they would like a spanish forum?
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where can i get a decent bull guard with plate?
nige replied to Coucoui6's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
get an ARB. no welding unless you have a body lift and don't like unsightly gaps. They look much better than the KMA one too 4 wheel parts You can pick it up from one of their stores to avoid shipping costs. there are a pile of them in California -
I think trainman has the traction kings on his R50. Ask him what he thinks of them.
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i wanted to wait until after the weekend, but fine
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just got my 33x12.5 procomp mt's installed last night
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jeebus you guys have really low priced parts down there
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At least Toyota dealing with their rust issues, Nissan sucks!
nige replied to zack1978's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
oh and undercoating sucks because it usually hides the rust unlike painted metal where you can instantly tell if it's corroding and needs resurfacing. -
At least Toyota dealing with their rust issues, Nissan sucks!
nige replied to zack1978's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
this again? my god zack if you maintained your truck as well as you say you did over it's entire life, why did you not address the frame rust as it was happening instead of leaving it, waiting 'till it goes to sh!t, and then b!tch about it and scream lawsuit? If you maintained it so well, tell me when you last checked the thickness of the frame with a hammer prior to noticing you had cracks and holes? because years ago when i bought my 95, i checked it out before i signed for it. I'm in the epicentre of ghostpath's rust map, and mine is originally from quebec. I researched the truck and made sure the frame was good. I left it for the next 5 years and oil sprayed it twice before i had to have a few patches put in. I caught the problem early enough to save it. We have 4 pathfinders in our family (two 95's) and mine is the only one that had a few small holes on the frame and in the body. The other two are in great condition for their age. (98 and and 01). I would never trade my truck back for kbb value if nissan offered too. I think they are only listed at 4-5k and my truck is worth way more than that to me. If you think the grass is greener on the toyo side, quit whining and sitting on the fence, and sell the pathy, because i bet a lot of toyota owners think the same thing about the nissans. quit b!tching and go buy a toyota instead of stirring up sh!t here. Stop posting topics, asking a million questions that a haynes manual would answer if you would just pick one up. God, I will mail you one for free if it means you won't start topics, get everyones help, and then be a jerk and rarely every give us the benefit of a followup or how you fixed the problem. -
maybe in usa. I paid $180 for a pair (i wouldn't replace just one) of remanufatured front calipers. And that was after my $50 core refund.
