nige

it's probably the rocker arm cover gasket. It shouldn't be too difficult to replace them. Just make sure you clean the old gasket off really well without scratching the gasket surface. And yes, unless the check engine light is on, the hesitation is probably the plugs. Pull them and have a look. Make sure they are properly gapped and clean. You might as well replace them with some new NGK's if they are worn. Oh yeah, make sure you clean out the holes the plugs fit in before you pull the plugs out. I give each hole a blast of air from the compressor (shield your eyes). You don't want dirt/dust/sand falling into the combustion chamber when you remove the plug.

yes. 3" suspension lift = 31" tires no rub 3" suspension lift = 32" tires will rub front fenders (need to trim them) 3" suspension lift + 3" body lift = 33" tire will rub front fenders (need to trim them) I know the wheel backspacing has an effect on how much the new tires will rub. I think you want them between 4" and 3.5" of backspacing. The closer to 4 they are, the less they rub on the fenders, but the inside of the rear tire may rub on the frame when you stuff a tire. I have a 3" sus lift with 31" tires and they do not rub anywhere, off road or on the road. I know if i put 32x11.5 tires on with my current setup that they'd rub the back of the front fender for sure. Get a body lift if you want to put big tires on. If I could do it again, I would have put the body lift on first, then the suspension lift.

nice pickles. Did you have any trouble putting the adapter plate on where the old filter used to be? It was probably easier for you because you already have a 3" b-lift

i have a tail light for you. pm me if you want it

not when your tumbler is frozen ahahhaha. but serious, i can see how this is a problem. After all, pathfinders are nice trucks a simple kill switch on a relay ought to prevent the vehicle being stolen. hopefully they won't trash the thing when they find out it won't start.

my friend had an older chev corsica that he thought the gearbox broke on him. When he took the boot off, he discovered the nuts holding the shift plate had come loose and the plate had moved, blocking the stick from getting into reverse, but I am not too familiar with manual transmission pathfinders

are you missing hardware on your upper ball joint?

I tow a 14' aluminum fishing boat with a 25hp johnson. The boat has a full floor so it's a little heavier than most 14 footers. My truck tows it no problem, although it does use 25-30% more fuel. I'm sure my truck would have no problem towing a larger 16 foot aluminum with a 60 horse motor, but i would want to have my tranny cooler installed. You will want to have some heavy duty coils in the back if the tongue weight is high enough. As long as the trailer is properly balanced it should be safe. Just tell the boy not to tailgate and leave himself plenty of room to maneuver and brake.

Ooo slick, I am thinking the same thing you are. I already tore most of the hoses out. I have to get the compressor and condenser out next. I hope I will have enough space to fit one underneath the air intake pipe from the box to the manifold. My alternator is almost dead now Of course if it got up to 107f around here, i probably would have though twice before tearing the system out.

Yes I believe they are the 300zx studs. and PATHY90, you want to use these 300zx studs because they are stronger than the original jobs they put on these trucks. The 300zx and pathfinder share the same block.

get them from nissan. Here are your part #'s 14065-V5004 - stud 14039-W1500 - nut 14037-F6610 - washer it cost me around $100 for 12 of each (I replaced all of my manifold studs with these new ones) They are supposedly stronger than the stock parts.

here is the thread about MAF cleaning: How-To MAF Cleaning Stepping on the gas before starting the truck will do nothing because your truck is electronically controlled fuel injection. Does the engine turn over when you crank it? Or is it completely dead? One more thing: I hope you didn't use a pressure-washer to clean your engine.

check the pcv valve for blockage, and check over the rest of the vacuum hoses around the engine for cracks and leaks. your mass air flow sensor might need to be cleaned too. Unscrew the unit from the intake pipe and CAREFULLY clean the little wires with some alcohol on a cotton swab. If you search for 'MAF clean" you should be able to find the thread with more detail and pictures of the procedure

i always though a supercharger would be a better route to take. Turbos create lots of heat and if the truck is crawling, i think it would be more likely to overheat the engine than a supercharger.

When I had 31x10.5 tires and my old rear coils, the tires would rub when i went over a huge bump with a full load (camping/fishing gear, 2 friends, trailering the 14' boat, etc) These tires were mounted on the grey lego factory wheels. Are you running the same wheels or chrome stock ones? The chrome wheels are 15x6 while the legos are 15x7. The backspacing may be different on them and change how far the tires stick out. I ended up getting some heavy duty rear springs to stop the rubbing and they have worked like a charm thus far. My front tires never rubbed, even with 31x10.5 tires and a saggy front suspension.

I got most of the hoses under the hood out. I think i have to take the grille and bumper off to get the condenser off. How did you undo the two mounting bolts on the underside of the compressor? Mine won't budge and I don't have very much room to maneuver the rachet around. I have skinny girly arms so that doesn't help either I was able to loosen the top bolt, but i figured it would be best to remove that one last.

I searched around the forums but I can't find anything in ther threads about removing the A/C system. I don't think there's any pressure in my lines and the a/c hasn't worked since I bought the truck. I never use it and I was thinking about having an alternator fill the void left by the compressor after I remove it. Have any of you folks done the same thing in your trucks? I'm wondering if removing things like lines, compressor, condenser etc will cause other malfunctions in the electric circuits or HVAC system. I have a factory service manual for my truck but it doesn't mention anything about the physical components of the system; only the troubleshooting test procedures.

gas the truck down hills and coast up them. watch out for cops though.

It helps to soak down all your bolts in a penetrating oil or rust loosener for a few days prior to installing. especially if your truck is a little rusty. If you are re-using bolts, make sure you clean the threads off with a wire wheel before putting them back on the truck. There are some bushings that go in the upper control arms that I hear can be a pain in the a$$ to install so you might want to find someone with a bearing press or something along the lines of that to make the job easier.

Tell me you made some venison summer sausage out of that bugger. The mennonites around around here jumped on the deer my older brother hit a few years ago. Glad to hear you and the missus are ok

i had no trouble ordering my headers from rocky road. they never had them in stock but Shawn had a set of them drop-shipped from the throley factory in california. read this thread, you will find some cheaper alternatives to the OME kit Aftermarket Part list

pm me when you're ready to sell some parts off the ol' pathy

You will most likely have trouble removing the old sensor. You can heat it up with a propane torch and use a long-handled wrench to crack it loose. It might help to douse it in some sort of penetrating oil (pb blaster, etc.), but you cannont drive the truck around after you spray it or it will get burned off. Once the sensor is out, I think all you have to do is connect the new one to the old wires and screw it back in. It might help to use some anti-sieze compound (just a lil' bit) on the threads of the new sensor so it doesn't get stuck as bad for next time you have to change it. Once the new sensor is in, all you have to do is reset the ECU and you should be all good.

good to hear from you again. Nice bike! like B said, Be careful!

there is a whole thread about tranny coolers in the product review section. You have to filter for date topics and it will show up because it's older than 60 days. 88, is there a way to make that default thread display time as 'since the beginning?