nige

oh it's the best after you've finished it! i havent stopped randomly floorin' it since I got mine done :cool2:

too bad he only uses UPS to ship. They butt-rape you with duty charges whenever you ship something over the border. USPS is my carrier of choice when I order stuff from the states. How is the ride Maz? does the truck have less lean in cornering and a firmer ride?

mine are like that now too heheheheheh how much were the new ones?

yeah that's wierd, mine is almost as quiet as the stock setup until you put your foot into it. I don't really get a bad drone on the highway and i'm missing all the sound proofing stuff underneath my rear passanger seats. I don't think moving the pipe straight out the back will make that big of a difference. Do you have one of those k+n air filters? I know they make a little more noise than the stock airbox does.

I blew my stock thorley gasket between the y-pipe and the cat. Replaced it with a metal one, so we'll see how it goes.

here are a few photos: The x-over pipe hangs lower than the t-bars, but not the mounts for the compression/tension rods: The muffler: The header: Luker, If you want to use skids with these headers, you'd have to add a couple of spacers between the plate and the frame so it would clear the pipe. If you guys are doing some tame wheeling and i'm not busy, i'll come our with your crew and you can check them out for yourself :cool2:

hey, you haven't lost any money on her unless you sell it for less than you paid for her

they did a really good job. I dropped in a couple times to check up on them and drop off some manifold studs (nissan sold me the wrong parts) and the guy named dave was busy drilling out my old studs. He was very careful while doing this and he didn't slip up once. They have a nice, clean shop with proper tools and such with a little parts showroom out front. By the sounds of it, he's a mustang and domestic muscle car guy, but he's worked on quite a few vg30's including maximas and quest/villager minivans. He also orders in pretty much any aftermarket part you can think of and he can install everything in the shop. I've bought a few parts from him and he'll always match prices too. I thought the time he spent fixing my truck (14 hours) was quite a while, but he said it was because I had so many broken studs on my heads. At least his labor rate is decent (68/hr) and he knows his stuff about engines. I had him remove my old manifolds and piping, drill and swap out all the old studs and replace them with new ones, weld in a new cat and muffler, transfer the pipe with the O2 sensor onto the new piping and clamp the rest of the stuff up.

you shouldn't need new torsion bars unless they sag after you adjust them.

ok, i finally got them installed and they sound pretty good. I have a flowmaster 50, magnaflow cat and the headers on. It has a pretty deep, bassy note to it and a slight rattle at higher rpm's (not sure what that is). There is a noticeable difference in power now too I will make a couple sound recordings and take a few pictures of the whole exhaust shortly. I have the crossover pipe clamped right now and it leaks a little bit from there, but it hangs clear from the automatic transmission and a little bit lower than the torsion bars. It cost quite a bit of money due to the amount of labor involved so beware. I had a lot of frozen studs will the leak ever go away itself, or is there a non permanent method to stop it?

you'll probably want aftermarket t-bars if you add one of those deer/'roo-basher steel bumpers too. Those things are heavy.

that's what I can do on mine with the flashing l.e.d.'s. I'm not familiar with the R-50's ecu though

here's my install. I made a bracket to put it on and bought some elbows so the hoses don't kink nige's o.f.r.k.

i think you can only decipher the codes on pre-obd-II vehicles. The OBD-II ecu's need to be plugged in some computer. I'd go to autozone if it's free there because Nissan dealerships are greedy

are those 31"ers Killvox? They look awesome!

As soo as my pathy dies, I'd like to get one of these equipped with a diesel: M-B G-Class Or maybe a 4-door 1998-2000 frontier. Sometimes I need to move stuff that won't fit inside/ontop of the pathy

5 snapped studs! prolly won't finish it today

hmm, that's about the most you can do... Do you have aftermarket UCA's installed? I forgot one brand of lift kit by Trailmaster. It's a 4" package that seems to be much better designed (albeit expensive) than any other packaged kit for these trucks. I think a couple members here have it installed. I have the Automotive Customizer (AC) UCA's and low-profile urethane bump stops on my front end. The torsion bars have been cranked so high that they are starting to bow and i have about 1" of clearance between the upper bump stop and the control arm. The tires are still relatively straight ( think []--[] instead of \\--// ) But basically, all the UCA's do, is control the ball joint angles so they don't prematurly wear out. If you want more lift, get the Trailmaster kit, or swap your 2" BL out for a 3" one.

what a dork

yeah slick, that's the same muffler I ended up ordering. I'm glad it's not a real loud p.o.s. I don't want to attract any attention to my truck. I'm taking it in on friday morning, but before I do that, I have to start spraying down the studs with some nut buster or pb blaster stuff. Did you take off your heat shields yourself? I keep shearing the bolt heats off mine pssd oh well, I guess it doesn't matter since they're going in the trash anyhow

I would stay away from them. Another member discovered they don't work well with stock upper control arms. You can crank your torsion bars up without them, just don't lift up the front too high, otherwise you'll ruin your cv axles among other things. Your safest bet is to buy some new upper control arms from Automotive Customizers, Superlift, Calmini, or Rough Country. Post a pic of your truck from the side, and a pic of your front suspension and we'll let you know how much you can 'crank' the torsion bars

you should also check the plugs on your rocker panels. Sometimes water can get inside there and not properly drain out the holes. This happened on my co-workers miata, but he never took the rubber plugs out of the holes to drain all the water. It ended up costing him new rocker panels due to rust.

thanks for your input mws! I'm going to keep the pipe diameter the same from the collecter pipe all the way to the tail pipe at 2.25". I could reuse my old tailpipe from the muffler as it's not too rotten, but I figured it would be a bit cheaper this way. I guess if I go this route, I won't have to worry about whether or not the pipe is offset from the center of the muffler. The guys I chose to install this stuff for me are one of the 'speed' shops around town. They specialize in american cars, but they've done Toyotas and a handfull of other imports too. Most of the muffler shops I talked to on saturday refused to install my headers :confused: I have no idea why, but i'll take my money elsewhere if they are so reluctant to do the job. Here's their ad: I'll make sure to post some before and after sound clips for you guys to listen to.

does it matter if the pipes going in and out of the muffler are offset? I think the stock muffler is, but I wasn't sure if it makes a big difference

Alright, I have my headers, gaskets, high-flow cat (magnaflow), new studs for the headers. All I need to do now is pick a good muffler. Since the sound clips on all the manufacturer's websites suck the dills, I need some feedback from all of you that own 'performance' mufflers. I want one that has a pleasant, quiter note, not the type that drones throughout the interior. I'm thinking that a Flowmaster 50 series is the one I want, but there are the Magnaflow type too that have a straight-through design, which I think might be pretty loud. I also know that some of you guys have Dynomax mufflers too, do they have that annoying interior drone on the highway too? Also I was thinking about doing what 88pathoffoad did, and forget about running a tailpipe over the axle and just weld a turn-down from the end of the muffler. I just wanted to make sure that you aren't able to smell any fumes in the cab when you're in standing traffic (if you get that in oregon). Other than that, I've taped up my thorley headers and made sure that the don't have any leaking welds on them, and i've also made sure that the flanges are all flush with each other and shouldn't leak (i've read some horror stories about these headers on the AC site). Do you guys have any other recommendations before I start to install them? Other folks have put some copper sealant around all the gaskets, so I might as well follow suit if it helps them seal up better. Filthy, after I get them installed, I'll come out with you guys and you can check them out before I get them dirty