nige

here you go mate: CV Axle replacement

spray inside the frame rails with a pressure washer. there are holes in the sides of the frame you can stick the end of the nozzle inside. blast it in each hole of the frame until nothing but clear water comes out the weeping holes in the bottom of the frame. if you don't have one, go to the spray down (the one on king and northfield is pretty good) and pay 6 bucks or so do use the pressure washer and soap it up at home. mud likes to sit ontop of the transmission and t-case, gas tank guard, inside the corners of the bumpers, the round tube that connects the frame over the rear axle, the body mounts etc. you could spend a whole afternoon giving it the royal treatment, but it will extend the life of the truck if it already isn't too rusty. So when you go mudding make sure you get your fill because it's a lot of work to properly clean it up. A pressure washer really speeds up the job tho

hey skinny pedal, i had to have one of the flanges replaced. it was the one that mates the pipe with the o2 sensor to the crossover collector. Rather than taking it back to marken, i took it to the minute muffler by the corner of fairway road and king street by charcoal steakhouse. The guy from marken told me i never needed to replace the old flange when i disagreed with him after the first gasket blew out. When the second one went, those guys wanted to sell me a ball and socket pipe and flange to fix it and allow some flex, but I told him that's not necessary and went to minute ant let them put a new flange on. It works fine now, but still leaks a bit from the crossover pipe slip joint. I'm debating whether or not I want to weld it up. Anyways, minute muffle does a good job if you need some basic exhaust work done. they were reasonable for labor charges too.

here jay, read my thread nige's exhaust thread

if you have trouble getting a tight oil filter off, put a strip of electrical or duct tape on the side of it and hammer a screwdriver through tape on the side of filter can and use the screwdriver handle to twist off the filter. You put the tape on the filter to limit the oil from gushing out the hole you put in the side. It's sometimes messy, but it works like a charm

some people on the board have them, but there have been talks of quality issues with them. Mind you, there have also been talks of quality issues with the thorley headers too, but mine fit perfectly. Do a search for the pacesetter headers and you'll find some info about them. go to the 4x4parts.com message board and there are other threads on there about the pacesetters too.

hey that mark guy looks like he knows his way around the welder. I had my headers shipped to my friend's house in Ellicotville, NY and i drove across the border and picked them up so i never had to pay duty charges for it. The total for them including shipping to NY was $353 usd. $28.55 was the shipping charges from californina (they were drop-shipped). Maybe rocky road will use USPS for shipping and you won't have to pay outlandish duty charges like UPS's. Just call them and ask first. Installing the headers might bump the price up quite a bit because the mechanic may have to use a drill to get broken-off studs out and that takes some time and skill. You might as well replace the cracked manifolds because i remember manifolds being almost the same cost as the headers. You will enjoy the extra power the new exhaust gives you. either way, make sure you have some extra money just in case you run into problems.

Rocky-road thorleys here is a link to get the headers

hey jay, haven't heard from you in a while. My exhaust was pretty beat-up too. I had a few missing studs and the y-pipe(downpipe) was rotten along with most of the flanges. I decided to buy thorley headers from rocky-road outfitters for $350 to replace the manifolds and y-pipe, a hi-flow catalytic converter (my old one was clogged and rusted) and a flowmaster 50 muffler. All the piping is 2.5". I never had any of the tools to do the job myself so I had to get a mechanic to do most of it for me. I ended up spending about $1400 on the entire system to have it all replaced. Stainless steel mufflers and pipes will cost you a little more than aluminized metal, and the thorley headers either come in nickle-plated (what I got) or ceramic-coated (more expensive). I think Borla makes a full stainless cat-back exhaust system too but it was pretty expensive as opposed to just buying universal-fit mufflers and catalytic converter and using regular 2.5" steel pipe to connect everything together. Just make sure that all the old rotten flanges are replaced because that's usually the spot where they leak. And you might also want to replace all the old manifold studs with the new nissan brand ones from the dealership. Unfortunately, i think that's the only place to get them and they will cost you around $100 for the set but it's better than having old ones break off and replacing them over again.

wow that's a good price for that kit. Don't forget to wrap teflon tape clockwise around the fittings to prevent leaks through the threads!

this was the other website i periodically check: Terra2 Imports They're the ones that usually have the g-wagons

i've checked out that website a couple of times too. I'd like a G-Wagen from them, but it almost makes more sense to drive down to the states and pick up a 70-80's model with the gas engine. Parts will be more availible for them and it might be easier to do some of the work on it yourself.

neat. looks kinda like the rotary engine except for a few more parts

november 2001 for $14 100 cnd at 96000km

i'd use steel as it's cheaper. Crawling under your truck with the pressure washer is the best way to get rid of all the caked on mud and salt. It's a good idea to stick the nozzle of the washer inside each hole in the frame and give it a good blast until you see clear water running out (beware, sometimes there is old dirt in there that is so rock-hard it doesn't even budge. i still havent found a good way to get that stuff out of there besides stabbing it with screwdrivers). Refrain from spraying the engine with a pressure washer. They send water into places that normal driving would never be able to (rotor, plug wires, relays etc.) The best way to clean your engine is by hand with a brush and some good degreasing soap. You can rinse it off with a hose, but you might need to re-lubricate some parts aftewards. Try not to get the alternator too wet and let everything dry out before you start it up.

here is my post about the same problem. you might find some useful info in there: skrilla's rust repair now that I think about it, it may have been easier to use self-tapping screws to hold the new plate on there instead of messing around, drilling holes for pop-rivets. I still have to fix the hole under my heel in the floor pan where the exhaust joins the collecter pipe. Harb, if your truck is rusting under the rear seats, chances are it's also rusting out by the exhaust. Pull up the carpet and have a look down there. If the heat-absorbing/sound deadening pad is wet, you probably have a hole in the body there. If you can't find that POR-15 stuff, you can use Naval Jelly like I did. That stuff seems to work really well if you put a couple of layers on. You have to rinse it off with water after about 15 minutes of exposure and all the rusty spots should turn white when it works. Take care not to get it on your hands or breathe the fumes in, and make sure you wear a mask and goggles while you grind the old flaked rust off. it's not good for your lungs to breathe in paint particles. Underneath the rear seats, there are 2 pieces of overlapping sheetmetal. Salt and dirt gets stuck between them and because it's a difficult spot to hit with a car wash, that's how the rusting starts. After you cut out the metal, make sure you clean them out really well with a stiff, long bristle brush and plenty of soap adn hot water before your paint over anything, otherwise you'll be doing this again in a couple of years.

i don't know if it's the same for gas engines, but when you run a diesel dry, it destroys a lot more than just the fuel pump. I think it has something to do with sucking up all the grit and stuff left at the bottom of the fuel tank. I don't remember what the part is called that my friend had to buy for his 2500 ram, but i do know it cost him $2500 for a new one after his went kaput when he ran the tank dry. I've gotten 'the shakes' once in mine as I was pulling into the gas station. I think i drove it about 40 km after the light went on, but not gunning the engine around everywhere. Either or, it's not a wise practice to get in the habit of Kramer

the r50's have a larger interior if you plan on moving lots of stuff around with you. Of course you could always get a roof basket for a wd21 and throw an extra stuff on top. I personally like how my dad's 2001 handles the road better than my 1995. Plus it has the VQ35 engine which is waaay more powerful

95 auto with no fitment issues besides the egr tube. they do hang a little low though so watch out for rocks

I spliced mine in a few inches before the lead goes into the back of the plug. Beware, you might get some interference from the ignition.

I read in the paper that the OPP (Ontario Provincial Police) just got themselves a new airplane and will be patrolling the 401 for speeders and hunting for weed crops in the cornfields. It's great to see my tax money going towards catching REAL criminals

that would be the jeep compass :oops:

i prefer the good ol' bag of gas

rent a grinder with a wire wheel. That'll take surface rust off real quick

i like your steering wheel