nige

well i learned i was bleeding the system in the wrong order, and i forgot to do the rear ABS actuator as well. I know I don't have a load sensing valve, so there's no need to check that. anyways, I re did the procedure, unhooking the negative battery terminal, turning the key to off and starting with left rear, right rear, left front, right front, then the abs actuator. Nothing but new fluid came out of the air bleed valves on each pass. The pedal still goes to the floor :furious: .What i noticed during testing was the pedal would go right to the floor on the first stroke, stopping the truck slowly. If you pushed the pedal down repeatedly, it would 'tighten' up and stop the truck faster, but as soon as you don't push it for a couple of seconds, it 'loosens' up again, requiring more time to stop the truck. I have no leaks at any of the points where the line enters the caliper, the lines themselves are in good condition with no nicks or cuts/abrasions. I'm also getting no ABS warning light either so i'm assuming the system works OK. Do you guys know if i'm missing anything else? or is there a malfunction in the master cylinder or booster? I inspected the vacuum line between the engine and the booster and it's in good condition. I've tightend up my parking brake cable in anticipation of slowly rolling down to my mechanic, but i'd rather avoid doing that if possible.

you mean brake lines? No. they weren't cracked/worn/leaking. All i thought it would be was one of those copper washers you have to torque down to seal the line to the caliper, but no fluid comes out of them when my brother pushed on the brake with the air bleed valve closed.

I'm refilling the brake lines with no vacuum pump right now (my brother pushes the pedal while I loosen/tighten the air bleed and watch for bubbles). Does it work better if the truck is running or shut off? I can't seem to get all the air from the right front right now. it either has bubbles in the hose, or nothing comes through.... I checked for leaks on the line going into the calipers but they're nice n tight. The reservior is always full too. I had no trouble doing the rear axle, and the left front caliper had no trouble getting the air out.

but i'm trying to save money for my LED washer nozzles!

normally i would check the wreckers first, but it's incredibly rare to find a pathy with good parts left on it here. the same thing happened when i needed parts for my miata :sniff:

I checked at partsource here in canada and they want $120 for both corners including the exchange for the old calipers. I think i might just do this instead of fussing around with the old ones. I don't have time for that. Thanks for your input tho guys.

try using "frame rust" as your search query. I think there is a sticky about it in the garage section

i just replaced the front pads, and while i was using a clamp to push the pistons in so the caliper will fit over the new pads, i noticed i needed to use quite a bit more force to get one of them to retract into the pots. The insides of the pistons are rusty and the rubber seal around the sticky one has chipped away on one side. I have a feeling this sticky piston is causing my new pads to drag on the rotor, rather than retract like they're supposed to. The truck pulls noticeably to the left, unless you apply pedal pressure, then it straightens out and pulls a little to the right. I know i'm most likely going to need to rebuild the unit, and i was wondering if the job is within the realm of a novice mechanic. I've honed cylinders in small engines before, so i'd know what i'm doing. I'd just like to know if it's worth the trouble and time, finding tools etc. to do the job on my own, or simply pay someone to do it for me provided it's not too spendy a job. Is it necessary to do both calipers on each "axle" similar to changing pads, or can you fix just one of them? I'd like to save as much money as possible... home ownership isn't cheap

you crazy americans and your guns /so jealous

i heard expanding foam is a no-no because it retains moisture

leather seats like mink oil

hahaha it's funny to see how cheap gas was at the beginning of this thread. btw I get 400km per tank. the best i ever got was 600km on my way to florida through the mountains.

i think it's because he got a shoddy brake pad. Where did you find this caliper rebuild kit? my rear caliper's piston is stuck and I should fix that sooner or later might as well do it when I replace the pads and rotor.

hey luker, mine look like that too but i think it's cause of my slide pins that one pad wears out before the other. it's just that it's too damn cold and i have no garage to fix mine in. i got rear discs from a napa-supplied store for 29 bucks apiece. i think partsource has 'em similarly priced.

ha i just called nissan out of curiosity and they cost $73 canadian :oops:

i haven't been able to find them outside a dealership. that's why mine don't work right now

i remeber someone using coils from a 1970's ford pickup or bronco. someone else is gonna have to elaborate on that though. I use JGC coils in my brother's truck. they're cheap and they work well. just replace the crappy old rubber isolators (the thing that sits ontop of the coil) with a pair of nice new urethane ones. cool pics of aus btw.

stat does your truck have air con? mine does and i noticed that alot of the aluminum pipes going to and from the condenser go right throught the firewall in to the cabin. I wasn't sure if these would pose any difficulties during the installation?

I like this one: Landcuiser $21,800

floor it down hills, and coast up them

It's gonna be really snowy tonight, maybe they will!

The only vortex the Turbonator creates is one directly above your wallet where it quickly sucks the cash right out of it. Get a tune up first. Then some thorley headers and a stainless exhaust.

I hate those things too. It's such a pain in the ass when you drive on a 2-lane highway at night and some tool in a rice wagon has them installed. They leave you blinded even if you try to look away. It's even worse on Highway 401 where the eastbound and westbound lanes are side by side the whole time. But people still think they are "H.I.D.'s" because it says that in the description on ebay. but yeah, welcome to the board.

Wikipedia I thought I'd add this webpage to the list of external links on Nissan Pathfinders. Maybe someone can add Aaron's WD21 board in there too. There is so much information here, it would be ignorant not to have us listed. For any of you who've never been to that site, it's pretty freakin cool. Just about anything you can imagine has some information in there somewhere.

nice shoes!