nige

hmm maybe your brake pad is dragging on one side, or your centerlink is worn. it might even be tie rod ends, but if the alignment guys couldn't find anything, that may not be the problem. It also could be the road you're driving on, because sometimes it's very hard to see the crown in the road, but your truck will naturally want to coast into the ditch. They build them like that so rainwater will flow off to the sides.

mws, is diesel exhaust 'dirtier' than normal gas exhaust? when I was in costa rica, most of the trucks and cars down there ran on diesel and sometimes I found it unbearable on the lungs to hang out around the streets in some of the bigger cities. I'm not sure what their emissions standards are, but hopefully they will tighten ours up before releasing these small diesels to the north american market. I have seen a couple of Jeep Libertys around my town that are equipped with diesel engines. I never got to see one up close, but i'm eager to see them start appearing in the dealerships around here. Nothing compares to them when it comes to pulling power. The only thing I noticed about them is parts are sometimes crazy expensive. My best pal owns an '01 Dodge 2500 Cummins, and the fuel injector pump as died on it. His best price quote so far is $2875 for the part and installation So if you know anyone that has one of these kicking around, i'd love to take it off your hands. On a side note, my hippie cousin has rigged his old MB diesel wagon to run on fryer oil. He has to cut it with a bit of kerosene in the winter. The filtration unit takes up a lot of space in the trunk, but it's pretty cool that it runs on a 'waste' product :cool2:

look in the 'how to' section at the top of the garage forum

GIMME THAT!

Has anyone ever been able to find one? i've been searching high and low for months now with no luck. I got one when I had the miata and I want one for this truck too, but all i've found are rc models and the cheap plastic jobs.

here is the installed plate picture someone asked for. sorry I don't have on from underneath, I don't feel like crawling under the truck again. It''s really nothing fantastic, just a bunch of silicone and black paint. THis was the big hole of the three. As soon as I started tapping at all the rust, the whole floor started disintegrating. I just whipped out the grinder and chopped up as much of it as I could find.

get it oil sprayed. As long as the rust ins't too bad, it will buy you time. Cleaning all the dirt out of the frame rails is a great idea. I wait until it's all dried up, tehn stab at it with a screw driver. Then i'll stuff the air compresser hose in the holes and blast it all out. that usually does the trick. The part that sneaks up on you is the seam under the rear passenger seats. Make sure you rinse that area really well and then spray some oil up there too. Those people on that other message board obviously know nothing about basic maintenance, or are too lazy to get underneath the truck and give it a good scrub. I live in southern ontario, the world capital of road salt and my frame is still sound as a pound. New fenders can be bought, and I've already sanded and repainted both sides of my rear fenders. Just make sure you layer the paint on thick where the fender flare meets the body and it will take a while before they rub through to the bare metal again.

i bet a vacuum catch bag would do the same i don't think they're meant for people crossing rivers though

I've never taken mine apart, but i know you need to remove the rear rotors to adjust it, don't quote me on that, though. I have a feeling it must be similar to a mountain bike, in the sense you unscrew a bolt that pinches the cable to hold it from slipping. here's a pic of the system from my FSM (courtesy of 88): http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/5444/pbrakezd6.jpg mod, sorry about the huge dimensions hope it helps. <Changed the image to a Link because of proportions...-V>

O.o that first one looks cool, enter that in truck of the month

hey that looks pretty good! nice job

i cehcked it out and it was $120 here in canada. Not worth it IMO. Just look at the lever if you really need to know if you're in 4WD or not

hey, good lookin truck jay. Rip the stupid sound barrier stuff out from underneath the rear passenger seats. It holds moisture and causes rust that i'm dealing with right now. :furious: And get a set of JGC coils, the rear end is saggin! good score man!

i just got steel because it's cheap. I don't think aluminum and steel play well together... Drill the holes (at high and low points) lay a bead of silicone, and rivet the plate on there. The rivets should make the steel take the shape of the underside, and then hammer it flush if you need to. I spread some more silicone around the edges of the plate so the same thing doesnt happen again

i cut some rusted metal out from underneath my rear seats, cleaned up the edges and removed any loose rust. I've cut out some replacement patches of steel to cover the holes and I plan on riveting them to the body to hold them in place. I was wondering if it's a better idea rivet the metal to the bottom of the truck, or cover it up from inside the cabin? I figured salt and dirt would get stuck in the 'hole' left by putting the plate in from inside the cab. what do you guys think the best approach is?

i used jb weld to fix the leaky rivets and a big crack on the hull of my aluminium boat. worked like a charm

my brother's is still up for sale too. Here is the original thread: Nige's bro's p-finder

here's a nice one if you hurry up!! ebay p-finder

i'd fly down south and buy one from arizona or around there then drive it back home (that's the fun part). At least you can pretty much guarantee there won't be any rust on it, and the canadian dollar is pretty good right now. 1-way air tickets are really cheap to florida/alabama/arkansas/louisiana/georgia/carolinas.

that switch looks like the transfer case position indicator. when you shift the t-case into 4WD a little green lamp should show up on the instrument panel. If your's doesn't do this, that's probably the switch. It's not necessary for proper function of the t-case. It's just an idiot light to tell you that you're in 4WD. Mine caused a short-circuit somewhere, so i just unplugged it and called it a day.

ahahhahahah ^

I just had the exact same problem on my way to work today. It stalled when I coasted through a corner after getting off the highway. The exhaust smelled really wierd (and bad). I pulled over, put her in park and tried to start it a couple times. It cranked over fine but would not idle unless I gave her some gas. I had to drive here with one foot on the brake and the other on the gas when I was slowing down for a set of lights/stop sign just so it wouldn't die again. After about 5 minutes of driving, the problem seemed to stop, but i'll have to test it again at lunch. I also have a 95 in southern ontario, and it's really humid today, which I thought might be causing it. I'll have to go out and check my hoses.

I think it should have a resonator and a cat on the exhaust. Mine still has the original one on it.

wasn't that pathy just repaired from another 'fender bender' a few months ago? damn that sucks! I hope the insurance company doesn't send you a bottle of vaseline along with the bill :furious:

i forgot the little clips to hold the rear seatbelts out of the way when you have the back seats folded down for cargo and the fact that the steering shaft is telescopic. I don't know why they did that, but i bet the guys that did b-lifts are glad it does