nige

i got my headers from rocky-road

i have a couple flicks for you aaron. I might give you a web link to download them. *starwipe* *starwipe* *starwipe*

Does the new idler arm come with a zerk? I noticed a lot of water and muck fouled up my grease inside the idler arm on mine last time I went wheeling. If there's a zerk on there, you could just pump it up until fresh grease starts squirting out around the bushings. I bought my steering used so the old owner may have stuck one on the side of the i.a. if you do install a zerk on the side of the idler arm, make sure it's in a spot that it will not bump into the bracket when you rotate the arm.

or paint something yellow

Good to see you again. Your cupholders you sold me are doing an excellent job! lol nice cl. i really like the colour of that one. Get another pathy!!

no. Do your exhaust and intake instead. If you aren't going to wheel or drive through water (even puddles) you can get the k&n cone filter. Do some searching for the exhaust and intake mods. Don't waste your money on gimmicky chips

I got one of these from wheelman's wrecked pathy. The cupholders work well if you don't dring big gulps http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-PATH...sspagenameZWDVW

do you have a multi-meter or volt meter? there is a quick way to test your alternator and battery using that tool. It will cancel those two components out of the question

I got my kit from my local Partsource store. I can't remember how much it was but i'm sure it was less than $100

I have a 50 series with thorley headers and 2.25 exhaust. I like the way it sounds. It's a little louder than stock up until the 3000rpm point at which it has a pleasant growl when you're giving her gas further than that

I don't know what your uncle was thinking when he suggested a 2wd pathy (maybe he wanted to sell a car?), but you should be in 4x4 and reverse (not neutral) when backing in a boat like that on a wet launch to prevent sliding. You should also be using a 4x4 heavy-duty pickup truck to safely tow a boat of that size and weight for frequent long distances. Surge brakes are barely adequate for a load that size. Your dealership should address the a/c issue. There's nothing wrong with that pathfinder as it is. The problem lies with what you're using it for. Your uncle should have sold you at least a Titan, or told you to go to the chevy dealership for a 2500HD

Nice! you spent a little money on it! You get some really good front flex with coil overs eh?

deep creep by seafoam works well. It was able to loosen up an old oxygen sensor so i could remove and replace it.

165lbs

pm the member named Runnerman. He makes skid plates that people really like

I doubt it. Doug Thorley makes nice headers for our truck. Buy and install those instead.

I just finished installing my '91 maxi alternator after my stock unit died. I didn't notice any difference in the way the truck runs. It's pushing about 15 volts right now. It really is a 'bolt in' job. I had a garage down the street swap the pulleys for free. I recommend taking apart your working junkyard unit to make sure everything is clean and well-lubricated inside before installing it. I also got my a/c compressor out so i can start lining up an alternator to replace it. The compressor and alternator mounts are very similar. I just have to figure out a way to put some tension on the old A/C belt. Thanks for figuring out these alternators are swappable S.S.! You saved me some money today

I saw his thread on the NTC board and followed his instructions while I took apart the maxi alti last night. The only thing i was concerned about was the rust on the inside of the stator. The brushes were fine (the inside one was a little more worn, but still about 1 cm long) and the bearings were smooth as glass, so I just re-lubed the brushes, cleaned up the copper and put it back together. I will have to rebuild the broken one for a spare unless it's really pooched. Now i just need to get the pulley off the old one. Good thing I have a garage within a 5 min walk.

Just so you guys know, I didn't have to remove the front bumper to get the condesor out. I did have to remove the grille and center radiator support (the vertical one in the middle) to get the condensor out. There are a few bolts that hold the condesor at the top and a couple more on the backside about halfway down. The evap canister came off no problem. I suppose you could save the aluminum pipes that connect everything together, but I just chopped them and tore them out. My system was bone dry when I took it all apart so I didn't spill and refrigerant at all. I don't think re-134 is harmful to the environment anyhow. I will try to take my compressor out tonight. It looks as though NTC adventure weekend cooked my alternator.

My 4x4 indicator light circuit had a short which would disable the vehicle. The switch was the culprit, and I didn't want to spend $100 on a new one, so I just cut the wire. You can test the circuit with a multimeter to see where the problem is, or you can just leave it and do what I do: look at the stick to figure out if you're in 4wd or not.

I think they will only fit on the Hardbody Pickups.

Frame and body rust. I seem to have more rust on the driver's side of the vehicle (not sure why). The body seams under the rear seats and driver's floorboard are also really prone to rust. Outside of that, I wish she had 200hp and 200ft/lbs torque. The weight of the truck is almost more of a flaw than the engine. 4500lbs is a little portly for a midsize suv with a 3 litre v6. anyone know what the d21's weigh?

I just put the filter in a plastic grocery bag before unscrewing it from the mount. That way all the oil drips into the bag instead of all over the fender well.

what brand and model wheel do you have Carlos?