nige

body lifts are good if you want to fit bigger (32"+) tires. I got mine from 4x4parts.com for about $200cnd to my doorstep. If i had to do mine all over again, i would have kept the 31" tire size and bought/made some sort of skid plates to protect the oil pan, trans pan and t-case. next would be some nice tires, but it looks like you have some good ones on there already. It looks like you run rocky terrain, so if you don't have the clearance, the skidplates will allow you to drag the chassis over obstacles. I would get some rock sliders too if you find you are getting close to punching a rocker on a boulder or something. If you put bigger tires on, you should build up your steering too. The stock steering on these trucks don't like big tires (so they say). ARB airlocker would be nice, but a lockrite or powertrax locker would be a much cheaper alternative to the arb at the expense of selectability.

1) keep the wheels. they are nicer than the xe chrome and can accommodate wider tires. 31's are a decent size for them. I have only driven mine on 31 and 33" so i can't comment on the 30's. I would get a spare set of snow tires (new or used) on the side. I know what the roads around kelowna can be like in the winter 2)you might be able to find out in the vin code, otherwise look for the orange sticker on the pumpkin. If it has fallen off, jack up the truck spin the tire to see if they rotate in the same direction. laying a peeler in gravel is the easiest way to find out. Just make sure you're turning a little and there should be 2 strips 3) if you spray down all the bolts you need to move with deep creep or pb blaster, that is a big help. If you can get an impact gun (electric or air power), it will help with the body mounts. As always, the job goes much easier with a friend or 2, but people have done them on their own. I have helped out with body lifts on 2 WD21's and an xterra. It is not too hard of a job, just lots of steps to do. there is a nice body lift thread in the garage section you should read nice truck though, i like that blue paint

yup, more eyes the better i used a longer piece of fuel line to hook up the front diff breather again. There is also a rubber line in the gas vent circuit that gets stretched pretty good, although mine held together. Don't forget about the fan shroud and radiator. Leave the safety hoop off. The crossmember will catch the rear driveshaft if it ever snaps

i don't think the cops care about having covers on them in canada (ontario at least), but i know they give you the same ticket for not lowering your high beams if you leave driving lights on when cars are passing you or you are following another car. You are young and you will learn how to control your temper around cops. they ALWAYS find something to ding you with if you are being a moody a$$hole around them. That reckless driving charge is gonna hurt your insurance bad if the court makes it stick.

never peeked under the hood of the TD equipped terrano, but if you have belt-driven fan, you could probably swap it out with an electric fan out of a ford taurus 3.7l, and maybe have enough room to mount the intercooler to the back of the radiator. not sure how efficient it would be, but i don't think there is enough room infront of the rad support behind the grille. Have you ever considered water injection to cool the intake air temp?

you could put it in a tupperware and seal it up where the wires and mounting screws go. When you are ready to do a water crossing/mud hole, snap the lid on top and give 'er

here is a nice example of the rear flex. Trailchaser's truck with 31" tires:

i would say it depends on what you will be using it for and how often you will be using it. If you go on easy and moderate trails, the IFS will be fine. If you frequently go rock crawling and run really difficult terrain, you may want to replace the IFS with a solid axle. Lots of members on the board have replaced the IFS with a solid axle, just go and look in the member's rigs section (mookie, 87pathy, spolar93, steevo are ones i can think of off the top of my head). I think there are 1 or 2 members in the middle of swapping out the front end right (packie88 and nissyota). Trailchaser has one of the most capable IFS terrano/pathfinder on the website. His is a good example of what a WD21 is capable of. TerranoNZ, Simon and 88pathoffroad also have a really sweet IFS terrano/pathfinders too. (sorry if i missed anyone ) If you decide to keep your IFS, make sure you upgrade your steering as it is the weakest link in the front end (especially when you have big tires). Just look around the forums to get an idea of what is involved in building up your IFS. If you don't wheel very much on challenging terrain, it's cheaper and less work to keep it IFS. The rear axle on these trucks is remarkably good for off roading (even better when you add a locking differential). There really isn't much you need to do to them to get good articulation. For starters, you can get rid of the rear sway bar, swap the rear coils out with some Jeep Grand Cherokee front coils (do a search for more info) and put some longer shocks (rancho RS5000 pn# RS5112 are a popular choice) and you are already miles ahead of most leaf-sprung trucks (jeeps, xterras, hardbody pickup) when it comes to rear axle articulation. The best thing is it should cost you less than $150 to do. The rear coils are optional, but you may find yourself dragging the back bumper on stuff without them.

oh and about the bumpstops squeaking; there are also a set of them on the back of each lower control arm too. They look almost the same as the ones on the front of the lower control arm.

you should be able to fit 32" tires depending on the backspacing. Keep in mind the 3" lift doesn't give you any more tire clearance. all it does is change the factory ride height. If you want to put bigger tires on, get a body lift too. 3" to be safe. I had a 3" sus. lift and ran 31" tires on my lego wheels for a while. it worked great until i got jealous of simon and skinnypedal's trucks post a picture of where your rear control arm has snapped. it is common for the stabilizer bar end links to seperate from the frame if there is lots of corrosion. Bad fuel economy could be a host of things. Is your check engine light on? If it isn't, you could need a new air filter or your tires are not properly inflated. If the check engine light is on, you will ned to put your ecu in diagnostics mode. THere is a sticky on how to do it in the garage section somewhere.

thanks for the heads up kirk

eee that's pretty bad. It doesn't look like much for that body mount to hold on to. If the inside side of the frame is still solid, you might be able to work off that, but it doesn't look too good

Marcel's computer is being repaired so the only way he can take orders is through his facebook page (via his cellphone's internet browser) He is going to put together a set for me and another set for one of the xterra drivers on CNTC. I will definitely let you guys know how it all works out. Marcel said he is expecting to have his computer working again sometime this week. Mike, do you have a facebook account? Search for 'Nige Pilsner' and add me as a friend and i can connect you with Marcel to order some. Next time i talk to him, I will mention you.

they make one of them too

i am in the middle of getting some now. i'll let you know if everything works out. The guy that makes them is in winnipeg. They are called Black Panther. do a search for the name here to see more btw, go to napa or partsource for that relocation kit. come to think of it, mine was made by transadapt, not permacool

you might have to be stopped with the gear selector in park or in n. then push down on the stick and shift it up (toward the motor)

I think it is, but it might be tricky to get it to fit under the hood where you want it. There is another member on this board that has installed one in his pathfinder and it looks like it fit great. I have a Permacool brand kit and it replaces the stock nissan filter with a single bigger filter. Fram TG8A is the one i use. Here is the kit Permacool

cool i like what you did with the rockers. It's gonna look good after the b-lift. you will love it.

why don't you call 4x4 parts and ask them if this kit will fit your truck. I am not familiar with '02 pathfinders 4x4parts.com

Listen to Slick and see if everything is snug. If it is, then clean all the old dirt and oil off there, then check it periodically and see if it leaks more. Slick and my1path are right, changing the filter will undoubtedly result in a little oil being spilled. The filter just happens to be over the starter which is why a lot of us chose to buy a filter relocation kit and put the filter in a more accessible place. It also extends the life of your starter.

just put a plastic shopping bag around the filter while you unscrew it if you don't want to spill a drop.

check your egr system. I am having similar problems with mine (erratic idling, poor acceleration, stalling on de-acceleration). I spent about $8 and replaced all the small vacuum hoses with new ones and it made it seem to run better. I must have done something right because my check engine came on when i took it for a test drive (i knew there was something wrong with it, but the ecu didn't think so. I got a code 32 (EGR System malfunction)

no need to take it to autozone to check the codes my friend. All you need to do is read this thread and get a smaller flat screwdriver to turn the ecu to diagnostics mode. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21

i am fortunate i live a short walk from work. sometimes I can go up to a month before pumping gas in the pathy

More flex dude! damn there is a lot of undercoating on there. I would get a old paint scraper and start clearing the undercoating off the common rust spots on the frame and check them out. I like the undercoating, but it has been masking rust on the undercarriage in my truck so i scrape it off around the affected area and try to clean up the rust. You shouldn't need the rear stabilizer unless your upper and lower link bushings are really shot. I don't notice the rear leaning much more at all now that mine is gone. If you really want to keep it, i hope there is enough metal to weld a couple of triangle gussets to the inside side of the frame and the front of the stabilizer endlink mount. That ought to hold it. I spent the whole day on sunday with the scraper, wire brush, rust converter and fresh paint to clean up my frame as best i can. This time i took the old step bar bracket off the frame and there was a nice egg-sized soft spot behind it and a pile of flaked metal. Every time i repaint the frame i find a new soft spot so i feel your pain.