nige

looks like you chose some thicker-walled rectangle stock. good call on that did you drill weeping holes so you can spray the inside out?

i have a 50 series with 2.25" piping. it has some good growl to it but not loud by any means. i think it sounds pretty good if you have facebook, you can watch this video and hear it in action http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=22631855164 **NSFW Language**

nice truck trogdor

you can remove your rear sway bar which will cost you nothing and give your axle more movement. I'm not sure it would be a good idea if you have blown shocks and saggy rear springs though. the rear end might feel pretty mushy. If you need new shocks, a lot of people choose the rancho rs5000's pn 5112 for the rear. those shocks are longer than the stock ones and will give you more articulation (so they say). the torsion bars are pretty strong (i had mine maxed out for a couple years) so i wouldn't be too concerned about breaking them unless you catch one with a rock. Just don't crank them so high that you have no upward travel left. Keep about 1-2 inches of clearance from the upper bumpstop, and tuck the anchors into the crossmember so you don't rip them up like i did last fall >.<

i have the same problem on my truck. take off your interior door skin and have a look at the linkage. I've heard there is a plastic piece on the linkage that is prone to breaking.

I think it has more articulation now, but it is hard to tell because it's a different location. I noticed my axle moved a lot more freely after I took off the sway bar. i can tell the difference in the flex picture thread. the first ones i posted were with the sway bar. the later ones without.

i saw that too. i sent them an email about npora. i'll post if they respond

i've taken mine to florida once (4400kms round trip), and a couple times 8 hours north to timmins. Countless 500-800km trips and i've never had a problem outside of an exhaust leak before i repaired it. I ran about 1200km during adventure weekend back in aug-sept (wheeling included) but that's peanuts compared to Mookie's journeys. Once i have a few things cleaned up on mine i will take it for another roadtrip. who knows, maybe even to Mookie's neck of the woods!

calmini 165 lbs a/c 3" lift 195 lbs

you don't want 15x10's. they are really only for super wide tires. You chose the good backspacing. If you ever decided to go up to 33" tires, they would have rubbed pretty bad on the wheels with 4.5" backspacing

awesome! good job guys!

when i installed my lighted tilt-meter thing, i tapped into the dimmer switch on the dash next to the hazard light

I always had good luck by tearing around the highway for a few minutes before I take it into the garage for the test. When the engine is hot, it seems to burn cleaner.

The backspacing might not be exactly the same (procomps might stick out another 1/4"), but if you're running 31's, it shouldn't matter. Most rock crawler wheels have 4" of backspacking. Those procomps have 3.75"

GG, now that Earth1 has backed up his statement, how about telling us why you think those tires are trash?

you have way more rear lift than I do with my calmini coils. I have a set of 3" AC coils i am going to install instead. It looks like your axle has crept forward a little too. are you going to evntually do a body lift? I've been daydreaming about cutting off the upper spring perch and sliding it down a couple inches on the frame, then add a gusset between the backside of the perch and the side of the frame to keep it strong. That would definitely lift you up, but you might need some longer upper and lower rear links and still bang the d-shaft on the x-member.

Read the title of the poll. It says nothing about taxes. the car is less than 50k. besides, i bet you'll be hard pressed to get an 09 camaro for less than 50k when they come out especially if it has the ls3 under the bonnet. This one went for 48k and it even had the nav system: 06 cayman s The dealers are over-valuating these cars right now. Hardly any of the ebay examples actually get sold. The dealers think they are worth more, or maybe they paid too much for them. I would also be happy with an 06 boxster s which is marginally cheaper than the cayman mz i totally agree with you. Ohio's S.P. looooove to catch speeders! Georgia is pretty strict about them too.

cool! i've kinda wanted to move my spare tire mount up a few inches because the tongue latch of my trailer would always bump into the tire and make it a biatch to hook up. slap some paint on that extra vertical support before it gets rusty!

I don't know where you looked, but there are plenty of them for sale here: Ebay Cayman S search Oh yeah, and Grim Greg... that's what they make radar detectors for. I don't think they are legal in Ohio, and your state is also the most risky one to speed through on the way to florida. Isn't your police force privately run?

I would like an older 2-door G Wagen (W460 or W461) or a samurai hard-top like my bro's old one.

is it me or is that a disc brake i see on the front of that exploder? Natura, if you get a 3" body lift you could probably fit those tires without rubbing, depending on the wheel offset. you don't want to go much less than 3.75" of backspacing. the body lift is cheap and with the help of some good friends *nudges Simon, Wayne, Bender, Pezzy* you can install one on your own with the right tools.

mmm mz, you have good taste in cars. that new c63 is going to be a monster. I would treat myself with a sparky little cayman s i think all those cars in the poll suck

don't buy cheap tools. spend the money and get a good brand with a lifetime warranty. craftsman is a good name, so is husky from home depot.

my friend has an r32 up here that you might be able to convince him to sell it to you. It was imported from japan. I think it has the turbo straight six 2.6 liter engine in it. right hand drive which he says can be a pain in the ass when in a busy city.

I also though my frame was relatively solid until i started tapping on it with a hammer. You will definitely hear the difference when you hit a soft spot. The hammer will also 'bounce' back at you when you hit a thin spot. Mine looked ok at first. After hammering, i needed 3 patches. the biggest being an 18" long plate welded to the side of my frame over the rear driver's tire. For some reason, the driver's side of my truck is much worse than the passenger side. I also recommend installing some sort of transmission cooler (get a bigger plate and fin type). These trucks have one built into the bottom of the radiator, but I simply bypassed it with the new cooler I installed in mine. Then go and get your tranny fluid replaced. Check for rust holes under the rear seats, driver's side foot well (lift up all the carpet and sound deadener) IF you have fender flares, take them off and have a look for rust. Another spot is behind the weather stripping that seals the back hatch window. That spot takes a really long time to dry out. Before you go buy an new one, check the transfer case fluid level. There is a drain and fill plug on the case. Use a 1/2" drive socket to open the upper fill plug on the t-case and check the fluid. I never 'shift on the fly' and regardless of what people say, i don't think it a good idea. I always stop, go into neutral and then shift into 4 hi or 4 lo before putting it in drive and starting to move. Roost is right too. Sometimes you need to roll back a few feet to get the automatic hubs to unlock for you. Every other 4wd I've driven needed to be shifted in and out of 4WD like that You should get your gas tank replaced if it is leaking. It's dangerous and it will make your truck run rough. The stutter could be from old plugs or maybe old wires. Check the cheapest parts first before spending money chasing down electrical problems. Be careful with old undercoating. Like you, I live in the rust belt and I thought my undercoating was ok too. What had happened is the water had crept in behind it at the back of the front wheel well and rusted out most of the driver's side floorboard underneath the undercoating. It looks fine on the surface, but underneath the thick undercoating, the metal was slowly rotting away. I will have to wait for the spring to fix that one on my truck. The only attention it will get for the winter is a blob of tar Since they are a little older, these trucks do need some maintenance, but on the bright side, they aren't too computer-dependent so you can fix most things yourself. There are a lot of people who have gone through the same thing and recorded most of it here. Spend a lot of time reading the garage section and you will have enough info for D.I.Y. jobs to save you a little bit of money.