nige

it's a custom job

nice!! it fits perfect in there. Yo, JDM GUYYY!! *snaps finger*

i've had thorley headers for about 4 years now. They make for a little bit more power. I also replaced my muffler and catalytic converter when i had them installed. The exhaust sounds nice. Make sure you check the nuts on the studs for proper torque once in a while. They will get loose. mine were $350 from rocky-road

the hammock is nice if the weather co-operates. you just have to find a tree or post to park next to. This hammock from Hennessy Hammocks is freakin amazing. It has a bug shield and rain fly that can collect rainwater into bottles for you and hold the fly down in a storm. some of them hold up to 350 lbs, so 2 lighter people could sleep in it, or 1 person and your bag can stay dry off the ground

oh yeah, mine is 28 splines. it's the rears that are 31

i think it's 94-95 pathfinders and 95-97 hardbody. it might fit some xterras, frontiers and later model pathfinders too

i would have kept the 31" tires for longer and got my skids, locker, winch and ARB first. Some rock sliders too. who needs clearance when you have a winch and armor.

Ok, fixed the problem. I didn't use the other armature, I was just more careful puttin. The motor back in. I found it helps to push the window up as you feed the motor into the winder housing. I wAs mistaken in thinking the leads Into the motor. You should have 12v positive and -12v when you toggle the window switch, not 12v positive and 0v when you toggle the switch. That how I discovered I also had a loose connection at the drivers door switch harness. Anyway, I greased up the channel and lift and now it works better than ever. Now I can finnaly wipe my windows down and put a coat of rainx

i have the pro comp m/t's, I got them used and i've been on them for 2 seasons now, they've been great. 33x12.5" size

well i took the regulator out of my spare door, but i was mistaken, it was the rear drivers side, so only a few parts were interchangeable. I took my passenger regulator apart and found pieces of one of the brushes sitting in the bottom of the case which is why i think it doesn't work. the communicator plate was blackened and dull. I swapped the good brushes over from the driver's rear door reg, cleaned up the comm. plate and put the regulator back together and tried to install it. It was a p.i.t.a. to get the motor into the bottom of the cable winder; the screw gear wouldn't turn the winder while i was putting it in. I twisted and jiggled it and the gear finally fell into place. I hooked everything back up and tried it again. The window didn't go up, but it did go down a tiny bit until it reached the bottom of the door. i took the reg motor out again and one of the little brushes was knocked loose. I think i'm going to swap the armature along with the brushes this time and try again. I had just enough time to work the window back up by hand and stick one of those suction cups on you use for picking up glass, pulling dents etc. The rain came shortly afterwards. for f#ck sakes, all i wanted to do today was wash and wax it

i also have a spare rear door buried behind my shed. does anyone offhand know if the regulators are interchangeable?

that's what i am starting to figure. i removed the window from the door to get better access to the regulator, and i was able to get the last connector off. It was fine and there is grease inside. Both connectors on the plug side are receiving power and the motor is warm to the touch so i know it's getting power. I noticed that the regulator clicks when i push down on the switch, but it makes no noise when i push up on the switch. There is also a little rubber "snout" that is covering an opening beside the connector. Is this where the circuit breaker is located? Is there a way to manually raise the window and keep it there short of wedging something underneath it to hold it up and steady? I think it's gonna rain here tonight

just looked in my manual and i noticed there is a circuit breaker in the schematic for the power window regulator. Is there a way to reset this? that might be my problem as well. A bit of water may have gotten in there and tripped the breaker.

Hi, i just finished washing the truck, and i went to roll up the windows to wipe them down and every one of them but the front passenger side works. I've tried using both drivers and passenger side switches and neither of them raised the window. I took off the door skin and checked for power interruptions, and the motor is getting electricity at the last connector before the leads enter the motor. Both contacts register 12v when i push up or down on the switch so i know everything is working fine there. I removed all the motor mounting hardware to get at the last connector going into the side so i can test for 12v, but since it's attached to the cable, i can't move it to the left or right more than a couple inches. is there an easy way to unhook the cable so i can move the motor infront of a hole in the door so i can check the last electrical connector? I checked the other connectors in the door and some of them had a bit of moisture in there so i cleaned them out and put a little bit of w.l. grease in each one.

is your check engine light on? sometimes a stuck egr valve can cause that, but your should check the ecu and see if it has stored any error codes.

is your check engine light on?

LOL ironically, most of the modifications you guys do make the truck safer farkin retarded governments. don't feel bad, we have the same type of jackasses in office here in ontario as well. they really like to ban stuff around here and make outrageous laws. Makes me want to move to Alberta

i have always bought alpine products. I currently have a CDA-7894 which was the last head unit they made that came with the v-drive 4x60w internal amplifier. It's a bit too powerful for the factory speakers when you bypass the amplifier, but I haven't upgraded my speakers yet. But at 27w RMS for each channel, the head unit would do a great job of driving 4 nice speakers on it's own. You can adjust the each channel's timing to make up for the varying distance of the speakers to your head so the sound from each channel hits your head or wherever you focus it at the exact same time. If you are going to get an external 4 channel amplifier, i wouldn't bother getting that model head unit, you could grab any alpine with the 4x50w power rating. I also got an adapter cord (alpine KCA-121b) that allows you to plug 2 rca jacks into the ai net/cdchanger input on the back of the deck. Then you grab a set of those component cables for your ipod and have a direct plug-in for the best sound quality. I never listen to CD's on it anymore. You can still find them for sale on ebay or maybe craigslist, and if it isn't too beaten up, it will last you a long time (i've had mine for 4 or 5 years now) It has all the bells and whistles i could ask for in a head unit and it has never had a hiccup to date.

i just think you'll be spending a lot of money to get that fixed up. If it's more than $1500, you would probably be better off hanging onto the rusty one for parts, and getting a newer like jadm4x4 suggests. If you're around the vancouver area, here is a truck i myself would go check out (even though its red ) pathfinder in vancouver

ew that's pretty bad. It doesn't look like there's much left to weld to. How is the rest of the frame? have you checked up front by the UCA's? If you have factory step bars on, I can pretty much guarantee it's gonna be bad behind the c-bracket mounts for those too. How are the brake and fuel lines on the backside of that frame holding up? If the truck has other problems with major components (engine, tranny t-case, severe body rust etc) i would be inclined to scrap it and get a fresh one.

the factory lego wheels are magnesium and pretty light weight. They come from the same factory as Volk Racing wheels (nissan exclusively uses Rays Engineering to make their factory wheels) If you want to get something light to replace them with, choose some cast or forged aluminum wheels. The forged wheels are much stronger and lighter, but they are considerably more $ than the cast wheels. If you know you won't run a tire bigger than 11.5" wide, you can get away with using a 7" wide wheel. If you get something in the 12.5 width range, you should be using an 8" wide wheel. 4" of backspacing on an 8" wheel (neutral backspacing) should suit you fine. If you get a 7" wide wheel, look for something close to 3.5" of backspacing.

i used hook needles and waxed saddle thread to fix my seat bottoms. It held up for a couple years before the thread ripped through the original holes in the seat. I used an "X" pattern stitch, but it retrospect, i should have used the baseball style stitch as it doesn't require you to pass through the same hole twice. I was able to stitch them up with the leather upholstery still on the seat.

make sure your tire pressures are good. You can always pump a bit more air in to them if you have some highway driving to do. You'll get better mileage. even with all the crap i have bolted to mine (winch, arb bumper, skid plates, 33" tires, i still manage to get 400-450km per 65l of fuel, mixed driving (highway and city) p1 is right too, make sure all your mechanical stuff is working perfectly and you keep up with maintenance like fresh air filters and new, properly gapped plugs. These trucks aren't that bad on fuel provided everything is working properly and you don't drive it like the dukes of hazzard.

depends on the condition of your wiring. mine is all original and i have been running maxima alternators for 3 seasons now