nige

those are very nice cyril

check your brake fluid level

Nice truck, it reminds me of when i bought mine. I had the same manifold problem. I drove it like that for years, and the exhaust y-pipe ended up rusting out and smoking the carpet first. I fixed them with a new set of headers and stronger studs.

is it the dust guard on the inner side of the rotor?

i also got rid of mine before i installed a snorkel. You might want to plug the hole it leaves in the air box to prevent water from splashing in there

Ya check your O2 sensor, maybe you got a dud. Clear the computer after checking the wires (disconnect battery 15mins), and try again. It might be your MAF, or TPS too. The truck will rely on the MAFS primarily. If there is a problem with the MAFS, the computer uses data from the TPS to determine A/F mixture.

i have a free clinometer from plaincode on my ipod touch. it's pretty accurate

i use the rub on stuff, it works really well both seasons, but sometimes it makes my wipers vibrate across the windscreen. maybe i need new ones. It's really good for the highway or country roads, but I find myself still using the wipers in the city

yes, i had the same problem with my passenger front window. It turns out the drivers side door switch harness was loose, but i did learn how to disassemble, service and reassemble a power window regulator lol Test the switches first.

yeah, you can use them both, but not for very long before you need to recharge the tank. Like 87path says, any sort of spinning/rotary tool uses lots of air What kind of tank/compressor did you get? You need to consider the CFM your compressor can flow, and then look at what CFM at a specific pressure the tool requires to operate. The size of the tank isn't as important as the CFM value the compressor produces. Brad nailers operate at next to nothing, while sanders are one of the most air-hungry tools out there which is why it makes more sense to use a plugin sander instead. They are more efficient than the air-powered versions when hooked to a small compressor.

I wouldn't bother using air drills, saws, sanders or anything else that you already have or can buy a cheap plugin version instead. Sanders and drills use lots of air and it will be hard on the motor if you are constantly filling the tank. Brad nailers, framing nailers, impact gun, die grinder and ratchets are nice. A few different sized wands make dusting, cleaning and drying things off quick. If you do a lot of sheet metal work, a set of nibblers work great. Get a tire filler too, they work awesome! Air powered grease guns work really well too. Just be careful with them while using a needle fitting because they are very high pressure. Paint sprayers are very helpful as well. You can always rent air tools too. That way if you don't like/need it, you don't pay full price. Don't forget to drain your tank after each use. There should be a small bleeder screw at the lowest point of the tank when it is level. You will be surprised how much water accumulates in the bottom, especially if you live in a humid climate. Rusty tanks are dangerous and avoidable. and whatever you're doing, wear some sort of eye protection when using anything air powered. Things tend to happen at a much higher velocity than normal. And don't use impact guns to tighten your wheel lug nuts. as a matter of fact, don't use impact guns to tighten anything.

i have them on my truck, but i don't remember using the clips simon spoke of. The adhesive tore off after a few years so i took them off, scraped the old tape from them, scratched up the surface, put a layer of pl2000 on them, stuck them back in the channel and rolled up the windows until they set for a couple days. They haven't budged in 4 years and the window never gets hung up on them.

Ah at least you can take comfort in knowing your truck looks awesome, even though you are up to your bumper in dirty pond water and may need a new motor, starter, alty etc. At least with the snorkel, your engine may still be running and it won't be such a p.i.t.a. to extract the truck from whatever mess you thought you could make it through. When I buried my front end in a hole and stalled the engine, it took plenty of digging and 3 trucks hooked together to pull it from that mud hole. fun times! I used to wonder why all the aussies would get so heated when they see pictures of north americans plowing through water with no snorkels, now i understand. I would have done the same as Max and made my own, but I got a decent price on my snorkel ($300) so I just bought one instead. On a side note, have any r50 owners bought and installed this snorkel yet? It looks like it's made by Airflow (Gibson) It's odd that Safari Snorkels don't have a part for you guys... yet. I don't think they are made from PVC it's too brittle. Probably UHMWPE.

they are good for mounting a nice set of driving lights to. Get some big ones! tow bar is good, you can get a receiver shackle mount for it and you will have a good rear recovery point warn shackle receiver nice trail btw

pcv valves are usually less than $10, just get a new one if you think it's clogged. Idling problems are usually caused by leaking vacuum lines -seafoam will not help you here. I used a half bottle in a tank of gas a couple times, but i never noticed a difference. I am reluctant to pour it in my oil and intake because it's a solvent. I agree with Chriskaw440. If you treat the engine well, you shouldn't need to use this product. A new set of plugs, wires, cap and rotor should net you a bit more power and fuel efficiency. seafoam does work excellent as a penetrating oil. You can buy it in an aerosol can which makes it easier to apply. I assume the aerosol can would also make it easier to spray into your vacuum lines if you feel inclined to do so.

does it not run on it's own fused circuit? i've never looked in the panel for it, but you could just pull the fuse if it has one.

i personally think it looks big and tacky. They are a good idea though, because i notice lots of people like to sit in my blind spot where it's difficult to see them because of height of my truck. The Terranos come with them from the factory but they are over the little channel that runs along the body. I put mine just under that line and a bit on the side of the fender bulge. That way they will be slightly aimed at my blind spot and very visible. Side marker lights are quite easy to wire up to make them blink with your turn signal and stay on when your running and headlights are turned on. All you need to do is splice the one marker wire into the 12v lead for the parking lights, and splice the other marker wire into the 12v lead for your turn signal. Now your side lamp will stay off when your parking and headlights are off, turn on when you turn your parking and headlights on, and it will also blink opposite of your front turn signals regardless if the parking and headlights are on or off.

rancho rs5112 for rear, and rancho rs5214 front are what i am using. the rear shocks are longer than stock so you get more articulation from the rear axle. those tires are pretty tall and you will need to do some major fender trimming to fit them. You should also get some wheels that have a bit more backspacing to prevent them from making contact with the frame when you stuff a rear tire. Your gas mileage is going to take a huge hit too. IMO 32's or 33's are the perfect size for these trucks if they are lifted, 31's if it's not. 4.63 gears will be much better than the 4.3 gears also found on these trucks. if you don't plan on doing a body lift, get some 265/75 r16's(~32") for tires. search and read some more. there is lots of info in the garage section for you to read. go look at the members rigs sections and get an idea of what others have done.

oo good list so far. Here are some of my favorite things for working on the truck. Most of it is handmedowns from dad, i bought a bunch of stuff from princess auto, and i am always looking on kijiji first, before i go to a store to buy something new. I have a nice socket set from my dad. An air compressor with tools (i don't often use) Cordless drill with lots of bits, and an angle grinder with cutoff discs and wire wheels. It doesn't matter what brand hand tools they are, as long as they have a lifetime warranty that is honored close to you. x2 for coveralls. Mine were $30 from TSC. They save your clothes and are fashionable! I use them all over the place now yardwork, house renovations, fishing, add a goalie mask and machete and you've got yourself a halloween costume Ramps. Mine were $40. It makes cleaning, changing the oils and skidplates much easier. Faster, and safter than a jack. The big shop-teacher style safety glasses so when you lie under the truck you don't get crud in your eyes. Tap and die set for chasing and making threads - very useful on rusty old trucks. mine was $20 off kijiji Red heat lamp. Aim it at your tools closely. Since they are made of metal, the light will heat them for you. Very nice in the colder months. Pry-bar set or one big one. Big metric combination wrench set ratchet extensions and elbow (helps with #6 plug, starter) Voltmeter vernier calipers headlamp brake cleaner, seafoam deep creep, belt dressing, elec. contact cleaner, wd-40, white lithium grease, axle grease , blue loctite, clear silicone, more brake cleaner Soldering gun, wire, fuses, relays, ring terminal, butt connector, vampire connector, tape, solder, flux paste GOOD electrical pliers (like channel loc) fluorescent trouble light (cheaper than LED) rags, old blanket oil/fluid catch tray kitteh litter for spills piece of clear hose for bleeding the brake lines smokes tetanus shot zip ties baby!

i ended up doing something similar to adam, I drilled out the old captive nut and used a longer bolt and a new nut and couple washers to hold it all together. It's been working for 5 years now.

just weld it and be done. How many times do you expect to re-install the headers? Unless they develop a hole in them, chances are, never.

I am in the same boat as Simon, although i have headers on mine. I passed our emissions test by a hair. We'll see how it goes next year

roll up the window, take off the door skin and lube the channels and slide. Roll the window up and down, then re-lube it and reassemble. hopefully that will get you by if the regulators are getting tired.