nige

i liked derek's wheels too, but i couldn't find a set for a good price around me. They were around $140/ea canadian back when i bought these pro comp wheels. Mine were $109/ea new

congrats Mr.P

i wouldn't bother with it just because it's 2wd. Don't tell me there won't be winter days you wish you had 4x4 in NY.

15x8, 3.75" backspace works well on the truck. 4" of backspace (neutral backspace) would work too, but your tire might rub on the rear frame a bit sooner. Don't get 15x10" wheels, i think they are too wide and heavy (especially if they are steel) for these trucks and 12.5" tires. You are gonna have to do some trimming to the rear of the front fender, and possibly the rear of the rear fenders too. there are lots of pictures of my truck around for reference, but if you are at AW, you will see.

thanks for the pointers so far. I'm still shopping for one, and hopefully the canadian dollar will regain some if it's momentum. my dollar nets me about 79 yen right now. it was nice and high back in may. kbjj, it doesn't sound too different than what i've done to my gas engine (minus the egr modification) I spoke to my local emission tester and he says the tests are much easier to pass with a diesel. He says he rarely fails them unless they are running too rich. I found this website that give lots of specs on all sorts of nissans regardless of the destination market: http://specs.cars-directory.net/nissan/ I think i am going to try and find the 94-96 4-door pickup. The 'wild addax" package sounds very similar to the SE versions of the terrano/pathfinder. Hopefully i can find one in good condition. I've been checking the auction sites nearly every day. There are nice ones coming up for sale all the time, such as this:

i think they look better than the wd21 model anyways

most likely need to lower the parking brake brackets too. Mine are too short when the axle droops so I have to unbolt the anchors before I go wheeling. You might not need to do this if you don't disconnect your rear anti-sway bar

sport is supposed to increase the "stiffness"

thanks everyone

you're gonna want to beef up the steering. especially if you're using 10 inch wide wheels. you should put 35x12.5x15" on an 8 inch wide wheel to save some weight

I really liked that year of the 4runner too. They were really expensive when i was shopping for my truck. Factory locker is awesome, nice truck.

i prefer using some sort of brush on rust paint. It gives you a faster indication of rust. The bedliner/rockguard/undercoating would be so thick it would hide the trouble spots, i would think. if you can get the metal clean, i think some self-etching epoxy primer would do a good job of protecting the metal. the paint is really just to protect the epoxy primer and make it look pretty. Use glossy texture paints; the dirt has a harder time sticking to it.

Hey thanks Gary, I will pm you my email. I guess I will have to come up with my own solution for the steering. I have a friend that can help me out with that. I'm still getting quotes from insurance companies, but so far my current provider is offering the best price. Thanks for the link, i'll keep my eye on it for more d21 doublecabs

you don't need the shackles; they are for leaf springs

yeah the 2.0l DOHC motor is a pretty good 4-banger

yup, showroom stock class - very exciting racing!

the o2 sensor plays a part of setting the air/fuel mixture when the engine has warmed up. Running rich increases carbon deposits and wears out the catalytic converter faster. Running lean increases the engine operating temperature. Neither are desirable so and get a new O2 sensor and install it. The usually last for 2-4 years before they fail. I like the OEM nissan sensor, but the bosch brand part is good as well. Glad to hear you found the root of the problems. diagnosis is the hardest part.

get a locker, you won't be sorry

found out about from my current insurance provider that this vehicle will cost me $164/month for the same coverage that my current WD21 has for $84/month, that kinda negates my fuel savings I'll have to shop around for a better price. My rep told me since this truck is right hand drive, it falls under the same category as a driver instructor's vehicle. I guess it has something to do with the controls being on the other side, or they just don't get that may clients buying RHD vehicles.

ah sorry guys, i've been busy fixing various fluid leaks, a blown CV boot among other things. I've almost fixed everything that went during my road trip with the exception of one of my IPF lights and my LED maplight conversion. I found some little LED waterproof floodlights from oznium.com but I have yet to run switched power to them. They fit perfectly in the corners of the rear bumper, but i have to make some flaps to protect them from all the ........ that gets kicked up by the back tires. We welded a mount for the numberplate to the bottom of the gas can holder (which is welded to the tire carrier). We also added a mount for a farm jack to the tire carrier as well. I got the rear bumper and tire carrier sandblasted and had a 2-part epoxy primer added as well as a coat of glossy 'amish black' over the tire carrier and rear bumper. We also half-made a set of sliders too, but we need to finish bending some tube for a spot to step on them and some extra protection for the doors. Bender and I were working pretty hard back in May to get the truck ready for goneMOAB. I have some photos of the rear bumper, but i don't want to post them because it's not finished yet (I still need to mount the floodlights). I'll put up some pictures of the slider construction too (even though they aren't quite finished yet) Between finishing my kitchen renovation, working on the boat, my 3 1/2 week vacation, and catching up at work, I don't have much time to accredit to the truck and drinking beer. Hopefully there is some time to get out on the trail in there too

glad to hear you got it out. Putting in the new one isn't much easier though lol. Regular wheel bearing grease will work fine. just try to keep the end of the shaft clean before you slide it into the back of the hub.

the o2 wire goes over the bellhousing, between the motor and firewall, and pops up under the hood, near the windshield on the passenger side. just unplug it and see if it runs better. Not sure how a minor accident would cause that part to fail, but you never know... Does it stumble when the engine is cold, hot or both? I agree with Precise1, it sounds more like a vacuum issue if the engine stumbles and dies when you step on the brake. Check all your rubber vacuum lines for damage, pinches or kinks. Check the brake booster vacuum line too.

where are you located? most part stores have a tool loaner program. If you are in Canada, go to a partsource, they loan tools for free; all you need is a credit card. Go and borrow a tool like this: tie rod end tool

I wanted to ask you guys a few questions about diesel RHD trucks. I've been shopping around for a used D22 at home, and recently i've been looking to the japanese imports. A good, low mileage, clean, gas 3.3l D22 seems to be around $15k, so I decided to look the the JDM imports to see what kind of truck that much money would get me. This is one of them I stumbled on a little while ago, and I am kinda surprised it's still available for import to Canada: BMD21 It's a 1994 BMD21, 4-door, 2.7l TD, 5 speed, 65000km, modified by Autech (whatever that means) for close to $10k cdn. I just have spend $300 to fly over to Vancouver and drive it home. I find it funny that these 16 year old japanese trucks are in much better condition than a 6 year old North American truck. I'm in the process of getting a quote from my insurance company to see what my coverage will cost. I'm a total newb when it comes to diesel engines, but i know that the diesel would suit my driving style better than the 3l v6 i currently own. I don't like to go fast or let the engine rev above 3.5k rpm, so i figured I'd be better off with the low-end torque and fuel economy the 2.7TD provides. Eventually, i will be swapping over as many parts as I can from the wd21 and the d21 will become my wheeler/boat hauler/long distance road trip vehicle. Engine concerns: -What sort of consumables (filters, fluids, seals, sensors, pumps etc) are commonly replaced as part of maintenance of the 2.7td? I think there are some business in western canada that will import these parts for you if you need replacements. -Are the turbocharged engine models suitable for off-roading? It will get dunked in dirty water, covered in mud and dust and subjected to steep climbs, rough roads and lots of vibrations. Would I be better off with the naturally-aspired 2.7 diesel instead? -Does the diesel have an ECU that I will need to relocate to higher ground? -Are there any upgrades to the engine you guys would recommend? I've been reading around that an intercooler and larger diameter exhaust helps the efficiency. I saved all the diesel parts from my safari snorkel, so i will be installing that on the truck too. -Since it's from Japan, I am betting this truck was subject to lots of short trips (bad for diesels?) If there are lots of carbon deposits on the engine, what is the best way to clean it all out? Chassis concerns: -Steering upgrades. Do you guys get your centerlinks upgraded? i could make my own idler arm brace, but my calmini steering will definitely not fit a RHD model. -fuel tank protection - i know the tanks are different between the WD and D21 trucks, i was wondering if anyone bumps the tank on rocks etc. if it's worth making a skid plate to cover it up. The rest of my skid plates (t-case, trans, oil) should fit the D21 without any modification. -Spare parts. I know that most chassis parts should be easy to find around here, but I am wondering if there are any parts that are specific to the diesel, RHD trucks (other than steering) Are there any websites or forums that you guys could direct me to that would give me more information about the d21 diesel nissans? I searched around quite a bit and just decided to throw this up here and see if you guys have had experience with them. I know there is one member on here that owns a '91 which looks very similar to what i'm checking out. Is there are factory service manual for the D21's with diesel engines that is readily available? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to know if it's a good idea to buy truck with an engine that literally has no parts support within 4000km of me.

there is a vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator near the #6 plug. See if it's cracked, plugged or it got knocked off the fitting. black smoke is usually caused by too much fuel, so keep looking for problems in the fuel system