nige

do these sliders take a 3" body lift into account? or will they have a huge gap between the rocker and the slider?

be prepared to change the bushings in the idler arm too. I think bandit4x4 is the name of the place you can get replacements as calmini won't sell those a la carte. they want you to send the arm back to them with $250 to change the bushings. you might as well pay a machine shop to pack them arm with spherical bearings for that much.

my nickle plated headers are welded at the slip joint. I drove it around for a while before doing that, and it did leak until the pipe got heated up. I decided to get it welded up and it has been fine ever since.

nevermind, i ended up ordering new ones from AC

Has anyone purchased replacement bushings for their Automotive Customizer upper control arms? My bushings are just about shot and I need to replace them with fresh ones. Does anyone have a part number for these bushings? Am i able to use stock bushings in these UCAs? the truck is at the shop right now so i can't measure anything.

i think i am coming up on my 10th year with mine. I bought it right around this time of year in 2000.

rear link bushings as in the bushings that are in the rear suspension links. 4-wheel alignment? we don't have independent rear suspension on these trucks.

i play a little bit $5 yamaha sj160 washburn (i think) mandolin tenor ukulele

well i hope they send you a new one. i wouldn't bother drilling out the holes and installing that, it would shift around all the time when it gets stressed i've had more problems with their heavy duty steering kit's idler arm bushings than i've had with the complete stock steering setup. I would have gotten a CL and IAB from hoohaa if i did it again. calmini offered to fix the idler arm for $250, i pay the shipping and too bad about not having a DD until you get it back, whenever that is. Just give me a set of bushings and a sleeve, and i'll be happy. you can even have your old parts back

that's a pretty good price! you'll like them, are you going to do the rest of the exhaust too?

this spray bomb job looks really good: here's a bit detail from the krylon website: http://www.krylon.com/projects/sports-recr...o-4wd-sidekick/

@!*% i accidentally deleted my post, i wanted to add that you should keep lock de-icer with you too in the winter time. You can sometimes get away with breathing into the lock mechanism a couple times, but make sure you don't get your lips stuck to the door lol

put some headers on too!

It sounds like you still have some air in the lines somewhere. I had the same problem and Simon suggested i gravity bleed the brake lines. Just leave the valve open for a few minutes and lightly tap on the caliper and lines in case there are some bubbles stuck in there. I just stuck a clear hose over the bleeder and watched for solid fluid to drip out. Don't touch the pedal when you are doing this. You also may have a pinhole leak in one of the rubber lines (if you still have them), a loose banjo bolt or other fitting. Do those z32 brakes call for a different type of brake fluid than the z31 system? Check the simple stuff first. It sounds like you have a leak or air somewhere in the system. The other possibility is your stock MC isn't good enough for those bigger brakes. I'm sure the z32 would have a different MC than the z31 because of their 4 piston calipers.

mine never had one to begin with

try and find a used one like i did. I paid about $500 to purchase and have it installed.

welcome did you not see that the frame was falling apart before bought it? The plate is a good, idea, but it doesn't help you if the rust has continued underneath the frame or on the gas tank side of the rail. I started to hit my frame with a hammer to see where all the soft spots were, then me and my friend Bender cut them out and welded patch plates over the holes. I've also had patches welded on the bottom of the frame underneath the rear doors. Everyone's frame rust problems are different, you you may not need an entire plate if you caught the rust early like i did. I'm sure you'd sell a few of the precut sides, but most people will get by with a couple patches here and there. If people can find someone to weld the precut side on, chances are, they have some scrap plate lying around the shop to make patches out of too. don't forget to drill new holes in the side for flushing out the frame with a pressure washer or compressed air. Most of the trouble starts when the flakes of metal off the inside of the frame block the weeping holes underneath the doors. You need to get those chips and dirt out of there so the water/salt/sand/mud can escape and the metal can dry out.

ew

nice!!! she lives on

lol those wheels are made in the same factory that produces volk racing too. they were probably worth big bucks back in the day when they were produced. It was and still is uncommon to put nice, light magnesium wheels on trucks. The lego wheels are awesome. They look good on xterras too

poke around on the bottom of the driver's and passenger foot wells. Mine developed a big hole there, and i know i'm not the only one. Don't get one with rust around the windshield either. if you are gonna wheel it with big tires, try and get an open diff and 4.6 gears along with manual transmission and rear tire carrier. Open rear diff is easier to install a locker and the bigger gears help with the larger tires. Yeah hopefully you can meet the previous owner and see what sort of driving habits and distances they went. I don't think you would want a car that had low miles because of a short commutes, especially in the winter time. The constant heating and cooling melts and freezes water and ice which really messes up these trucks. I would rather have one that was highway driven further. It's less wear and tear on the truck (depending how they drove it like unccpathfinder says) just remember with the SE and LE editions: the more gizmo/gadgety sh!t they have on them, the more sh!t is likely to break, so try to keep it simple. If it has rust, walk away and try to find one in better shape. you're the one with the money so you have the power in the transaction. just don't be all giddy when you find one that you'd buy. the salemen can sense it lol

no way, LACES OUT DAN!

make sure the batt. terminals are clean and shiny, and you have a good connection with the negative cable. Most elec problems are caused by a bad ground.

the click you hear is most likely the starter relay. The fuel pump makes a short whirring noise with the key in on position. try tapping the starter housing with a hammer or something. The armature might be stuck. the battery should turn it over with 12.2 volts. Try boosting it with another car too. The starter might be on it's way out.

hahahah here's mine: i still haven't changed my avatar lol