nige

i had to drill and re-tap mine for a larger fastener

Since you're in Alberta, you're also allowed to have studded tires . I would get a separate set of winter wheels and studded tires, and a nice set of AT's or MT's for the summer time. If your roads are mostly dry rock and gravel, I would lean toward the AT's. Get 5 of each so you have a full-sized spare and rotate it with the other 4 to keep them evenly worn.

if that's the worst condition roads you have to negotiate, i would get the pathfinder with 3.5l engine.

hey chicano, here's good site to give pointers on how to aim your headlights. you might already know how to do that, but there is lots of good info about automotive lighting on here if you've never seen the page before: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

your pathfinder also has a much shorter wheelbase than a fullsize pickup. I don't think stock pickups are quite as good as stock SUV's when it comes to wheeling as they have very little weight over the rear axle

Some pictures for you: stealth bottle opener

Bender had a homemade jerry can holder which was welded to the back of the carrier to the right of the spare. He also welded a couple tabs with threaded rod on top of the carrier to hold the jack horzontally. I re-drilled spare tire mount bolts a bit higher up on the carrier in hopes of giving me more departure angle. I haven't hit it on anything yet so i think we're good. I'll get you some pictures of it so you can see what i'm talking about.

you could always experiment with a piece of chalk. Draw a line across the tire, drive for a little bit and see where the chalk wears off first. If it wears off evenly, you have good pressure, If it wears off in the middle first, decrease your pressure, if it wears off on the outsides first, increase your pressure.

mine come on when you hit the defrost button. I've never taken them apart so I can't help you with wiring, but there should be more than two wires since they are also power-adjustable.

i liked derek's wheels too, but i couldn't find a set for a good price around me. They were around $140/ea canadian back when i bought these pro comp wheels. Mine were $109/ea new

i wouldn't bother with it just because it's 2wd. Don't tell me there won't be winter days you wish you had 4x4 in NY.

15x8, 3.75" backspace works well on the truck. 4" of backspace (neutral backspace) would work too, but your tire might rub on the rear frame a bit sooner. Don't get 15x10" wheels, i think they are too wide and heavy (especially if they are steel) for these trucks and 12.5" tires. You are gonna have to do some trimming to the rear of the front fender, and possibly the rear of the rear fenders too. there are lots of pictures of my truck around for reference, but if you are at AW, you will see.

i think they look better than the wd21 model anyways

most likely need to lower the parking brake brackets too. Mine are too short when the axle droops so I have to unbolt the anchors before I go wheeling. You might not need to do this if you don't disconnect your rear anti-sway bar

sport is supposed to increase the "stiffness"

you're gonna want to beef up the steering. especially if you're using 10 inch wide wheels. you should put 35x12.5x15" on an 8 inch wide wheel to save some weight

I really liked that year of the 4runner too. They were really expensive when i was shopping for my truck. Factory locker is awesome, nice truck.

i prefer using some sort of brush on rust paint. It gives you a faster indication of rust. The bedliner/rockguard/undercoating would be so thick it would hide the trouble spots, i would think. if you can get the metal clean, i think some self-etching epoxy primer would do a good job of protecting the metal. the paint is really just to protect the epoxy primer and make it look pretty. Use glossy texture paints; the dirt has a harder time sticking to it.

you don't need the shackles; they are for leaf springs

the o2 sensor plays a part of setting the air/fuel mixture when the engine has warmed up. Running rich increases carbon deposits and wears out the catalytic converter faster. Running lean increases the engine operating temperature. Neither are desirable so and get a new O2 sensor and install it. The usually last for 2-4 years before they fail. I like the OEM nissan sensor, but the bosch brand part is good as well. Glad to hear you found the root of the problems. diagnosis is the hardest part.

get a locker, you won't be sorry

ah sorry guys, i've been busy fixing various fluid leaks, a blown CV boot among other things. I've almost fixed everything that went during my road trip with the exception of one of my IPF lights and my LED maplight conversion. I found some little LED waterproof floodlights from oznium.com but I have yet to run switched power to them. They fit perfectly in the corners of the rear bumper, but i have to make some flaps to protect them from all the ........ that gets kicked up by the back tires. We welded a mount for the numberplate to the bottom of the gas can holder (which is welded to the tire carrier). We also added a mount for a farm jack to the tire carrier as well. I got the rear bumper and tire carrier sandblasted and had a 2-part epoxy primer added as well as a coat of glossy 'amish black' over the tire carrier and rear bumper. We also half-made a set of sliders too, but we need to finish bending some tube for a spot to step on them and some extra protection for the doors. Bender and I were working pretty hard back in May to get the truck ready for goneMOAB. I have some photos of the rear bumper, but i don't want to post them because it's not finished yet (I still need to mount the floodlights). I'll put up some pictures of the slider construction too (even though they aren't quite finished yet) Between finishing my kitchen renovation, working on the boat, my 3 1/2 week vacation, and catching up at work, I don't have much time to accredit to the truck and drinking beer. Hopefully there is some time to get out on the trail in there too

glad to hear you got it out. Putting in the new one isn't much easier though lol. Regular wheel bearing grease will work fine. just try to keep the end of the shaft clean before you slide it into the back of the hub.

the o2 wire goes over the bellhousing, between the motor and firewall, and pops up under the hood, near the windshield on the passenger side. just unplug it and see if it runs better. Not sure how a minor accident would cause that part to fail, but you never know... Does it stumble when the engine is cold, hot or both? I agree with Precise1, it sounds more like a vacuum issue if the engine stumbles and dies when you step on the brake. Check all your rubber vacuum lines for damage, pinches or kinks. Check the brake booster vacuum line too.

where are you located? most part stores have a tool loaner program. If you are in Canada, go to a partsource, they loan tools for free; all you need is a credit card. Go and borrow a tool like this: tie rod end tool