nige

You can buy an electronic flasher that will solve the fast flashing you get after swapping bulbls. it's a lot easier than having to put a load equalizer on each line. http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=6

congrats D!

I am Mine are pro comp 1069's 15x8 3.75" neg. backspacing Pro comp Mud Terrain 33x12.5x15 They rubbed on the back and front of the front fender at full lock and stuff. I cut some of the fender away and pounded down a pinch seam with BFH. In the rear, they gobbled up the back of the stock fender flare on the passenger side, and caused a pretty big dent when they caught the bottom of the back of the rear fender. I've cut most of that metal away now and the factory flares are so flexible, they don't get damaged by the tire rubbing. When I REALLY stuff the back tire, they just barely graze the body right over the frame rail. I have no rear bumpstops, 3" body lift, 3" rear coils, rancho 5112's and a mildly lifted front end(need to reindex the t-bars). anything else you need to know, just ask. I think they fit very well with trimming, but I have never had a brand new set of 33's. Mine were about 1/2 worn out when i got them. I know some can be like 32.5" O.D. and some brands are closer to 33.5" O.D. That extra inch makes a difference when the wheels are at full lock and suspension is workin

cool, i never knew it had one on there. I guess you could tap the hole, add a fitting and run vacuum hose from it to somewhere that stays dry

you could throw a tarp over the hood like the aussies do. It works really well for keeping the water from splashing under the hood. Of course this does nothing if you don't have gap guards in your wheel wells. If you are going to wheel in a place that has a lot of muddy water crossings, i would get/make a snorkel. The tarp won't really help you if you get stuck in the middle of a water hole and lose your bow wave; neither will an airbox mod if you happen to dip the drivers front wheel in a deep rut submerging the headlight. Extend the breathers for your differentials to inside the cab, silicone around the distributor cap, manual hub dials, dielectric grease in all the spark plug wires. There is also a breather on the starter motor that you should extend to keep the water out of that too. Make sure your door seals are in good shape and you have no rust holes in the floor. It will slow the water spilling into the cab. Have a tow strap and recovery vehicle ready in case you don't make it all the way across and stall. If you can quickly retrive a stalled truck, it will minimize how much water you get inside. Once it's in there, it takes forever to dry out and instantly ruins your interior. I would get rid of the carpet and hope your leather seats don't get wet. Drill a hole in the lowest point of the floor boards and put a plug in there to drain them if they happen to fill up. I like how the russians fasten all the electronics (comms. radio, ecu) to the cabin roof to keep them dry, they really aren't shy when it comes to the deep stuff.

After letting my rocker panels rust out, I decided it was time to get some rock sliders to protect them. I got a good deal on some 2x3" 1/4" wall steel, and some 1 7/8" or so tubing and took the material over to Bender's to start building a set of sliders. We decided to make them bolt on, so they could be easily removed for repainting and cleaning purposes. The first thing we did was get the measurement for the length, which was just long enough to clear the front tires. The ends were cut on an angle so they don't catch, and capped with 1/4 plate to protect them: After that we made some stand offs out of 1/4" plate and 2x2" square stock. I drilled mounting holes in the frame and got some hardware to fasten them with. We clamped everything together in the right position and tacked them together: Bender welded them up and I took them home, gave them a coat of self etching primer, and a quick rattle can job the day before I left for Moab. When I got back, Bender and I bent the round tube and tacked it to the outside of the 2x3. That was the hardest part I think. It was tricky to get the angles right and have the tube somewhat flush to the 2x3. I don't have any pictures of that process, just the finished product mounted on the truck: From the side: you can see how much they stick out from this angle: The 2x3 tubing is supposed to take the brunt of an impact while the round tubing offers a place to stand on as well as act as pivot points for trees etc. They are also useful when there is no dock at the boat launch. The round tube is also thick enough to take some bumps off rocks, and support the full weight of the truck when lifting with a jack. There are 2 supports for the round tube to make sure they don't bend in the middle. They are cut from the same stock as the 1 7/8" round tube. The only other thing i am going to do is go to the skateboard shop and get some grip tape for the tops of the round tube. The paint gets scratched too easily if you have small pebbles stuck in the treads of your boots. So same as the rear bumper, i would like to hear your thoughts on the sliders. Is there anything you would have done differently or change? I like all feedback, not just the good stuff. Now we just have to figure out what we're gonna make next

OK, i got some good pictures of the "finished" product. I think we will still modify the "wings" to make them a bit stronger by welding some supports to span the bottom of the wing and bold to the frame so you can still remove the bumper. I had to chop out the bottoms of my rear quarter panels (they were rusted to shiat anyways), but I am very pleased with the way it turned out. It slides into the frame which we also reinforced and is held on with 4 large bolts. It also has a 2" receiver with safety chain attachments, 3/4" shackle mounts and these nice little waterproof LED floodlights for extra area lighting. Here is a rear view: and one from the corner: As with the rock sliders, I have already taken a couple hits with it in moab and the last few trail runs i have been on with the CNTC. It's held up very well and i am thankful i have it. my old chrome bumper would have looked pretty sad by now. So what do you guys think? is there anything that you like or would have done differently? I don't want write all this and not hear any criticism.

i still use my factory bottle jack, but now I need to put it on top of one of these deck blocks to give me enough lift: you shouldn't have too much trouble finding a pathfinder jack in the junkyard

the FSM outlines how to test the functionality of the O2 sensor. I think you need a multimeter and a paperclip to jump the terminals. FYI i'm on my 3rd o2 sensor. the first one threw a code, the second one didn't I unplugged the second one and the truck ran better, so i replaced it. I need to test the one i currently have because my engine is running rich.

these new fram filters are much better than the orange ones. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1845821&page=1 they are built as well as any other premium filter out there I used to use the tough guard series, but i have never sacrificed one to see whats inside. I did cut one open after I changed it out for a new one, and everything was still intact. Now i have been using napa gold and they work fine. I will usually change my filter at 5000km and then change the filter and oil at 10000k. I used to use castrol, but i have switched over to synthetic oil. I tried mobil 1 and now I use royal purple since the last 3 oil changes. I didn't notice a difference in power etc. The oil is still dirty when I drain it. I hear that you won't realize the benefits of oils with detergents immediately. more like 4 changes later and by that time, you will have forgotten how it drove that long ago. 5w30 winter 10w30 summer

nice chop! a rollbar in the back would be awesome

pathorado chevfinder as in chevron lol

i am pretty sure the recessed side faces out. wait for someone else to chime in. post a pic of the washer. i don't recall mine having that part in them.

i'm assuming you're from northern coastal BC. I noticed this one 1995 pathfinder in vancouver looks like it's in very good condition with some maintenece work done and an external tire carrier (they give you lots more cargo room) yes, adam has covered most of the points to pay attention too. If you do choose one with an automatic tranny, check the color of the fluid. If it's super dirty or super clean, make sure you give it a good run through the gears to make sure it's solid. As soon as you get it home, get yourself an external transmission cooler and bypass the factory cooler imbedded in the the radiator. there are lots of good articles on here about how to do it. Also, make sure that the exhaust manifolds are firmly seated. The v6 engine is notorious for breaking manifold mounting studs because the heads are aluminum and the manifolds are cast iron. You will know if they are leaking because you will hear a ticking noise that may go away after the motor heats up, and you should also be able to smell exhaust under the hood. If the heat shields are off the manifolds, you should be able to see if there are any broken studs. there are 2 studs for each port. I would stay away from the second 2 trucks you posted in your links. the second one looks a bit beat up and probably has a dead engine, and the third one doesn't look like it was taken care of and had a huge stereo installed. the first one is a bit dirty and high mileage, and you don't know the repair history. If you do the timing belt on your own,(which many people do) it will cost you around $350 for all the oem nissan parts (water pump, tensioner, belt, coolant hose, gaskets). If you let a dealer do it, expect to pay between $1000-$1200

i had to drill and re-tap mine for a larger fastener

Since you're in Alberta, you're also allowed to have studded tires . I would get a separate set of winter wheels and studded tires, and a nice set of AT's or MT's for the summer time. If your roads are mostly dry rock and gravel, I would lean toward the AT's. Get 5 of each so you have a full-sized spare and rotate it with the other 4 to keep them evenly worn.

if that's the worst condition roads you have to negotiate, i would get the pathfinder with 3.5l engine.

hey chicano, here's good site to give pointers on how to aim your headlights. you might already know how to do that, but there is lots of good info about automotive lighting on here if you've never seen the page before: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

your pathfinder also has a much shorter wheelbase than a fullsize pickup. I don't think stock pickups are quite as good as stock SUV's when it comes to wheeling as they have very little weight over the rear axle

Some pictures for you: stealth bottle opener

Bender had a homemade jerry can holder which was welded to the back of the carrier to the right of the spare. He also welded a couple tabs with threaded rod on top of the carrier to hold the jack horzontally. I re-drilled spare tire mount bolts a bit higher up on the carrier in hopes of giving me more departure angle. I haven't hit it on anything yet so i think we're good. I'll get you some pictures of it so you can see what i'm talking about.

you could always experiment with a piece of chalk. Draw a line across the tire, drive for a little bit and see where the chalk wears off first. If it wears off evenly, you have good pressure, If it wears off in the middle first, decrease your pressure, if it wears off on the outsides first, increase your pressure.

i like white truck. P1's got a really nice white r50, and white trucks always remind me of safari and outback rigs. UN trucks too

ah the good ol 740 turbo, what a fine car to drive on curvy gravel roads nice pathfinder, where's your spare tire

mine come on when you hit the defrost button. I've never taken them apart so I can't help you with wiring, but there should be more than two wires since they are also power-adjustable.