nige

i had the same alternator on mine. i just switched the pulleys and plugged it in. it held up for 1 season before i buried it in chocolate milk. test it first before you try to install it. most parts stores will do it for free

here's a good thread to read about tranny coolers http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6486 it will give you some more info about installing one make sure it doesn't move around when you attach it to the radiator. it should be nice and snug, but not crushing anything. If it's loose, it will wreck the radaiator.

get the biggest cooler you can afford. mine has been fine in the winter. i have a body lift so that may have made it a bit easier. most of the good kits come with an assortment of clamps, brackets and hardware. I think mine was made by mr. transmission

sometimes corrosion builds on the exterior parts of the rear wiper. you can take the wiper arm off and try to spray some penetrating oil to loosen it up. If you need to look at the interior area, remove the plastic moulding on the inside of the hatch to get at it.

watch this video and then you will understand how an open differential works name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars=""> here's a link to google image search of lincoln locker. there are lots of pictures of differentials to look at. after watching that video you should be able to understand why people do that http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&...mp;aq=f&oq= the limited slip differential does just what it's named. it limits the 'slip', or ability for the wheels to turn independently of each other. They do this using a series of friction plates fixed to the spider gear carrier and the axle shaft. now, it requires a certain amount of torque between the axle and spider gear carrier for the friction plates to 'slip' or allow the axle to turn independently of the spider gear carrier. here's a link showing some pictures of an lsd being disassembled and reassembled. http://home.comcast.net/~xterra/tech/LSD/

i thought about putting an airlocker in, and then i got a really good deal on a lockright that was already installed in an open carrier. I paid about 200cdn for the locker and another 350 to have it installed by a pro. If i had gone with an ARB, it would have cost me closer to $1600 to buy and install it. I like the simplicity of the mechanical 'lunchbox' locker (lockright and aussie locker style) over the ARB because you don't need to buy and install a separate compressor and do all the extra wiring and plumbing associated with it. The lockright makes a bit of racket and gets a few strange looks from others, but it is not enough of an annoyance to make me pay extra for an ARB. plus it feels cool when the locker starts to bind making your truck lean I'll really be able to give it a good test when i get on a trail, but so far it's night and day between the LSD on gravel if money wasn't and object, I would have got an arb, but having a locked rear for under $600 installed was too much to resist. by the way, you can pick up a nice portable air compressor for less than $100 to do your tires with. i believe the ARB compressors are a tad more pricey.

no, an lsd will allow the rear wheels to turn independently of each other. Welding the spider gears will force then to turn @ the same speed

next time, spray some compressed air on the plugs to blast any dirt or grit out before removing them. you don't want that stuff falling inside the combustion chamber when you remove your old plugs. Put a thin coat of anti-seize compound on each new plug before you install them. i don't understand what you are talking about getting gas out of the engine. are your cylinders flooded with fuel?

i am not familiar with any aftermarket parts, but energy suspension also makes urethane bushings and end link kits which are supposedly better than the stock rubber. You could replace yours to make it a bit tighter. Some wd and d21 series trucks have different diameter sway bars. check and see if yours is 24mm. that is the thickest they come. if yours is a 20mm, you could get the parts off a wrecker in the jy and switch them for yours. you could also lower your right height a 1/2" or so very easily buy tightening your torsion bar adjusters.

lol, we took my shifter off the truck while doing the bending. i first tried with it still installed, but the pipe kept touching the dash before i could really bend it. the dash on the 93 and older trucks must give you a lot more room to work with

jeez, i paid $50 for a working 91 maxima alternator from the JY. Remanufactured Champion alternators are about $150 after you trade back your old one.

slide a longer pipe over the end of the shifter to get more leverage on it. try not to damage the threads and just bend a bit @ a time. you will figure out where you need to bend when you re install it

consider bending the t-case lever to make it clear the floor rather than cutting a notch out. It may take a little time get it bent right, but it less work and cleaner than cutting the floor and console to get the clearance. Bender and I ended up removing, bending and installing my lever about 5 times before we got it to fit. When we were finished, the shifter looked a bit like a lightning bolt: / | /

nice! i still need one of those drop brackets. my panhard rod has a pretty good slope to it. we'll see how it looks after i load it up to go for a run

my switch was shorting out so i just unplugged it rather than get a new one. they were pretty expensive last i checked

the only way to really gain more chassis ground clearance is to run bigger tires. If you are dragging the bottom anywhere, it's easier to put some skid plates on the bottom and live with scraping over stuff. If you want to put bigger tires on for more clearance, you should add a body lift and start trimming some sheet metal. Going bigger than 33" tires will expose lots of other problems

you can run the truck for a short period of time with the o2 sensor unplugged, just don't go for too long or you may damage your catalytic converter. the knock sensor is underneath the intake manifold between the two banks of cylinders. It is threaded into the block. i would repair or replace your o2 sensor, reset your ecu and then drive for a bit and see if the engine light comes on again. I'm not sure if there is any room to get at the knock sensor to test it with a voltmeter to make sure it's hooked up without removing the intake manifold

so does mine because of my worn calmini idler arm. Watch your tie rod ends and centerlink for play while a friend turns the steering wheel left to right.

unplug the o2 sensor from it's harness located near the passenger side firewall under the hood. If you aren't sure which harness to unplug, follow the wire coming from the sensor @ the exhaust pipe. If you driveablility improves without the sensor plugged in, chances are it is the sensor that is faulty. Be sure it is not just caused by faulty sensor wires by using a voltmeter to test for current and continuity. You can still repair the wires, but there really isn't anything you can do to fix the sensor itself. Some people have luck extending the life of the o2 sensor by roasting the tip with a propane torch to remove carbon. If this doesn't remedy the situation, you will have to look elsewhere.

i had michelin ltx m+s on my truck when i first had it. they are great tires. Nice smooth ride and decent grip.

if you aren't going any bigger than 32's get the 2" bl. if you run tougher trails, you should get a brace for your idler arm and some tie rod ends for trail spares

nice bumper!

here, they even come with matching turn signals ebay

good, it would suck if it did crack a little bit and then tear open some time down the road when the insurance company won't repair it

take a good look where the hitch mounts to the frame and make sure there are no cracks or bends