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PATHRIDER

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Everything posted by PATHRIDER

  1. you forgot to mention what bolts to use..I went with grade 8 bolts 8X25X1.25..The set on my 93 has been on there for 3 years..I didnt bother using those thick washers so I opted with the 25MM lenght bolts..If you wish to use the thick washers get a 30MM bolts.
  2. I dont think a 94 has airbags atleast my wifes se doesnt have one..looks like it does coz of the bulky steering wheels but I already pulled the steering cover off of my 94 and nothing in there
  3. wonder if it has anything to do with the TPS?
  4. wouldnt that be dangerous..how if you remotely start it and its in gear
  5. I read somewhere on here about the tps being unplugged when doing the timing..not sure on that but I did not unplug my tps when I set my timing. I marked all the notches on my crank pulley with a white marker and theres a total of 7 (0-5-10-15-20-25-30) I seafoamed my other pathy couple of years back and it scared the heck out of me coz it didnt start blowing white smoke till I got to walmarts parking lot which is about 10 mins drive from my place. I might have done it differently though.I poured half on the gas tank and the other half on the oil..I did not do the brake booster vacuum line. Im going to try the ecu check and if it doesnt show any error codes (I hope) ill try to set the timing with the tps connector off..Sorry guys if I dont update you right away on these problems . Been working on my 3 pathys all at once trying to get them all taken care of while I have some free time. I really appreciate all you guys input and tech advice :beer:
  6. Thanks B. Ill check for error codes today....another thing i forgot to mention is I washed the motor after the tune up. Maybe theres some moisture left on one of the sensors or connectors. Ive always washed the motor on my other pathy but it was always done in the summer good thing about owning 3 vg30 is I can apply whatever i learn here on all of them
  7. I just replaced the plugs with ngk gapped at .032...the old one I could not remember how they looked like. I can pull out the new one tomorrow and see how they look like. How do i check for build up on my combustion chamber bud? Would you recommend sea foaming it? run higher octane gas maybe ? Thanks
  8. send a pic to me bud and ill post em here..Im just going to buy moog if need to
  9. cool ..thanks bro..im thinking of taking my pathy at a local dealer tomorrow
  10. sosmebody oughta scan a copy of that warranty and some of us like myself who doesnt have the manual anymore can print out a copy that we can show to the dealer just in case they dont honor their lifetime warranty
  11. ok guys i just set my timing to 10 instead of 15..it seems that its hesitating more on 15 than it is on 10..when I have it set on 15 it feels like its not as responsive when i punch the gas pedal unlike when I have it set on 10...idle is at 800 and it does idles a bit rough..Cleaned my mas sensor and have a new plugs cap rotor and using ngk plug wires. any ideas fellas?
  12. hey adam it was the switch on the brake pedal..its the 1 on the right like you said..brown switch Thanks bro..now my other pathy has cruise..you saved me a lot of time figuring out what the problem is...I even replaced the unit im headin out at the jy so if you need the moulding for the front lemme know. I got you the rear l&r
  13. any pics yet? cant find a 79 el camino at my local jy how difficult is it to take out the front springs on the said donor car?
  14. Worth trying a different ecm or ecu .This thread will be a learning experience for me another thing that puzzles me is the test on the injectors This is what you said :The injector tests are in the FSM. Pull the dist. out of the head and turn the key to ON, then rotate the dist clockwise...you'll hear the fuel pump pumping fuel and each injector will click. Leave the dist. plugged in of course. How does rotating the distributor while its pulled off of the head and rotating it clockwise while the key is on make the injectors click? not trying to confuse you myself or the others but it just doesnt make any sense
  15. I know that but when one of your tail lights is out may it be stop / park / turn signal lights your turn signal indicator flashes fast..The left and right arrow on your dashboard
  16. If your turn signal indicator is flashing real fast its gotta be the bulb
  17. wish I could be of more help KC...somebody on here would probably give you some other tip on how to get it running bud
  18. somebody post a pic please..I have no clue what you guys are talking about
  19. Im sure you can get it running and probably some little things that you just overlooked out of excitement..when I did my dizzy I forgot to take the breaker bar off my pulley when I was cranking it by hand and started it...lol..On the rotor lining it with spark plug 1, If you look at it straight down like looking at a clock itll be at 10 o clock...the rotor will be like the small hand on the clock..Just like when we do our timing the tensioners allen hole is at 5 o clock thats how we determine we have the proper tension on the belt
  20. crank the pulley again by hand to a full turn and line up your rotor..it took me 4 tries to do my dizzy..when i tried to line up my motor to cyl 1 i was actually lining up the rotor to spark plug 1 on the motor instead of the dizzy cap...lol..Thanks to nunya for correcting me on that..When I lined it up the third time it was like at 10 o clock Kc im kinda lost on these The fuel pressure is fine. I can hear the injectors clicking while turning the distributor by hand. The timing is close to perfect...until I get it to fire that is the only way to tell. how did you turn the distributor and made the injectors click? I did my fuel pressure check the ancient way by disconnecting the hose going in the fuel filter and out Howd you get the timing set if its not running?
  21. theres 2 more screws holding that bezel and once you get the bezel or trim off there 4 more screws i think holding the cluster You have to take the underdash panel and the other 2 screws thats holding the bezel is behind it..you can just pull gently on the top part of the underdash panel without having to take the 2 screws holding it below but its safer to just take the 2 screws off and yank on the top part of that underdash panel.the top part is just held with snaps so you can either pry it gently with a stiff putty knife or pull on the side I can take pictures tomorrow morning so you know what im talking about or somebody here could probably chime in and explain it better
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