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PATHRIDER

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Everything posted by PATHRIDER

  1. Got her home and next week ill be draining the coolant and old oil then do a complete flush before putting the fresh oil and coolant.
  2. I will be picking her up at the shop later and get her home. I will flush the whole thing lol. Wish me luck and will post here again see what the outcome is. 5 quarts of oil and a gallon of coolant and 2 filters oil and coolant flusher is cheaper than $3000
  3. Thanks bud. Im going to the shop tomorrow and check the reservoir and radiator. From the time I restored it it ran strong and didnt lose any power, it even ran better It kinda made me wonder also why the mechanic is willing to buy it from me for $2000 as is.It could be something that can be fixed easily, we all know how mechanics exaggerate thats why I never took my pathy to a mechanic but this time I just dont have the time thats why I did. My guts telling me to bring it home and work on it as I get some free time like drain the old oil thats been sitting in there for a long time. I put a lot of work on this pathy and had a lot of good memories Thanks for your input bud sure appreciate it. Isnt there like a cleaner that I can put in after draining the old oil? I read somewhere on here that you can use this oil cleaner to clean out the crankcase and all and then drain that before topping it off with fresh oil ? Its not seafoam
  4. Hey guys Im not sure if I can post this question here To start off I have my 1993 pathfinder taken to a shop to have them go over it since I have not driven it in 10 years or maybe more and was told it has a blown head gasket because of the white smoke coming out when it was started and it has that milkish color on the dipstick, its more of a light color of white and amber mixed together My question is, Should I try draining the oil and put a fresh one on there? After doing some research it also mentioned that if its a blown head gasket the oil cap would have that gunky residue which I did not check when I was at the shop Whats strange is when my rig got stolen and was recovered the first thing me and a friend checked was the dipstick, it was normal no milkish substance on it so I decided to restore it by changing all the fluids and timing belt , water pump the whole work on that and test drove it for about 5 blocks maybe and no white smoke and it ran great. I decided not to drive it anymore but did the restore just in case I need her for a back up. I would start it every 2 years and the last time I started it theres white smoke so I turned it off right away and asked on here what could have happened or caused that and I was told old gas and condensation maybe, never had the time to mess with it after that so I figured worst comes to worst slap on another motor in it. What puzzles me is if it does have a blown head gasket as what the mechanic claims it shouldve blown white smoke the first time I started it after restoring it 10 plus years ago? The pathy has not left my carport all those time and also, took out the battery and fuel pump relay just in case somebody try to steal it again Can you guys please tell me from your experience on what to look for on a blown head gasket besides the white smoke and the milkish color on the dip stick. Im really tempted to change the oil and coolant again, completely drain both and replace the oil filter, What are your thought guys? Thanks in advance
  5. Thanks bud. Looks like Im just going to slap on a VG30 on my pathy and call it good if I dont sell it the way it is right now with a bad head gasket
  6. Whats the easiest and economical route?
  7. Hey guys just want to say hi to everybody and hope yall are staying safe Been a member on here for a long time and built my pathy with the help of a lot of old members here. Yall stay safe and keep on wheelin
  8. Thanks again bud. I hope theres not too much gunk on there but worst comes to worst Ill do the chain trick or try the wire wheel brush fist. I think I tried something like the wire wheel brush attached to a dremel with a flex shaft on our old water heater to get the build up calcium in the bottom and sides lol. It worked too
  9. Thats a beter idea. I have a syphon I use on my mowers. Thanks bud I sure appreciate it On another note, If I do have some gunk built up on there or what should I be looking for and need to do to clean it?
  10. Hey guys its been ages since Ive been on this site and just want to say hi to everybody. Ventured into a different hobby and also bought a 2015 Nissan xTerra PRO 4X for my daily driver but I miss my pathy so this summer Ive decided to bring her back to life I have 92 Pathy that was stolen and was recovered after a few weeks. Completely restored it from outside in. Changed all the oils plugs timing belt computer , you name it. Shes been modified already before it got stolen and if I wouldve moved the ECU behind the glove box it probably would have never stalled when we recovered it in maybe buried 3 feet in mud at the local orv park. Its been 10 years or so after restoring and it fired right up and drove it around and runs strong with no issues, everything worked as it should then decided to just store her in the garage. About 6 years ago I started her again and fired right up but theres white smoke so I was hoping it was condensation, checked oil and no milkshake there. If you guys can please tell me how to properly drain the old fuel without taking the gas tank out or letting it run through my injectors by letting it run out. I spoke to another member here and he told me how to drain the old fuel by disconnecting the fuel line going to the injectors unfortunately thats all I can remember. Your help and expertise is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and yall stay safe
  11. I just noticed that the alternator on this motor is on the passenger side. Cuong, is it interchangeable ? Can it be moved to the drivers side?
  12. Contacted the company and this engine has 37k miles for $900. Im thinking thats fair
  13. Thanks bud. Did some checking and found one nearby This supposedly came direct from Japan with low mileage Its for 1996 - 2004 Nissan Pathfinder Frontier Xterra 3.3L JDM Used Engine Imported From Japan With Low Miles
  14. Hey guys Im thinking of replacing my VG30 motor on my 93 pathy and keeping that motor to use on my 92 hardbody later on My question is , where can I get a replacement motor thatll drop right in with no major alterations? Should I get a VG30 or VG30E? Budget wise, Is it more economical to get a used motor or have the one I have rebuilt? The pathy ran great 5 years ago but it was never driven since and I think a few years back I started it and it just blows white cloud of smoke in the exhaust like after seafoaming it. Should I just empty my tank of old gas put in a fresh gas and let it run? Replace the gas filter also and probably new oil on the motor ? I dont have much time like I used to to mess with it anymore. I figured instead of buying a second gen xterra just spend the money on a nice motor for my 92 pathy which is by the way in superb condition as far as the entire pathy goes. No rust and the interior was gutted and carpeting and all seats were power washed ( what a fun summer that was), still has all the mods I did many years ago like thorley headers , bigger alt , efan, oil relo kit , k&n filter , 3inch body and suspension lift , hid headlights Any help and suggestions is greatly appreciated Thanks guys
  15. Thanks RC. I checked the pipe under the bypass hose and the end of that pipe that flanges to a 45 degree bend pipe to the heater core by the firewall and close to plug 6 and no leak. Im going to pull the intake off and see what I can find underneath. Its been a crazy winter here and too cold to be working in the carport.,hoping we get some decent weather atleast in the 20's and Ill pull that intake off. Done an injector swap on my pathy long time ago and IIRC its not so hard just time consuming Have a Happy New year
  16. Sorry for the late reply fellas, the snow just wont let up and finally got some 30 degree weather here and finally was able to finish it Adamzan I replaced the bypass hose and that was the original problem Now the truck runs so smooth but with one major problem maybe (hope not). I might have ruptured a hose somewhere underneath the intake manifold and it was just leaking like crazy underneath there. Its either a hose or the tube that runs to the back of the motor. I believe it is connected to the back of the thermostat housing, When I was doing my water pump, timing belt and bypass hose I noticed that that pipe that runs in the middle of the engine underneath the intake manifold is just just frozen solid thats why I waited for a nicer weather for it to thaw out but I guess I must've screwed it up last week when I first finished the timing belt and decided to start her to see if I did the timing belt right without the radiator hooked up but it would have not mattered anyways because I already noticed the leak from the water that got thawed. I thought maybe its just frozen water from the bypass hose leak and it melted when the engine warmed up but its not Any input is greatly appreciated guys Have a Merry Christmass all
  17. Ok after doing some more thinking I think that when I installed the water pump yesterday some of the water that froze in the piping somewhere drained to the water pump cavity when it got warm here and with the pump sitting overnight in 17 degrees temp it froze again freezing the impeller. Can I put a heat gun to it like how I melted some of the ice inside the tstat housing? Ive been putting water on the rad because its just leaking on the bypass hose anyways and figured Ill fix it soon but didnt expect well suddenly have a freezing temp. All my fault
  18. RC sorry for the late update. Got her running smooth yesterday with no accessories hooked up like the alt, water pump , ac etc and it fired right up with a nice throaty sound to it (3 months old muffler) This morning I was going to wrap everything up but had a hard time getting to one of four of the stud on the fan clutch that is dead center underneath to screw in the nut so I decided Id bump it , looked at the stud and its in the same place so I went and bump it again and still in the same spot. Decided to crank it and loud squeling noise so I turned it off right away thinking its the alternator, pulled it and had it tested and it checked ok so went back home and checked under the hood again and it dawned on me why that fan clutch didnt move a bit when I was tightening the 10mm nut and I remembered when I did my pathy that when I was tightening those 4 nuts it would move a bit thats how I was able to get to all the stud and screw in the nut with no problem because if I crank enough on it it keep spinning the pulley to where the other stud would be easily accesible on top.Tried to spin the water pump and it wont move at all. Never thought it would be it because it is brand new and I checked it before installing it. It seized and I have no clue why it did that Im pulling it out tomorrow and get another one at motion where I usually get my parts once in a blue moon.The pump I used is from autozone and I dodnt know why I went there in the first place The dealer has a 4 day wait at the time I did this project and I need the parts right away so I can drive my truck to work Another thing on the tensioner, I ended up not using the spring because it is to far to even catch on the stud, The allen hole is at eleven o clock and its perfect. I just dont want that spring flopping inside and maybe the part that catches on the stud might get caught on the belt, it is really loose Heres a few p;ics where the lines on the belt ended at. It was a tooth off to the right of the backplate dimple but after tensioning it it is now on the left
  19. Awesome. Im firing her up later on,that little hose sure is fun Thanks again RC
  20. I took the cam sprockets off to change the cam seal. The belt has lines of arrows towards me installed I replaced the water pump tensioner and thermostat also and the PITA bypass hose thats originally the reason why Im doing this and its probably a good thing that that bypass hose leaked because when I removed everything the belt is loose as a goose and probably ready to break. Im going to triple check everything in the morning and keep you guys posted on the result. Would it be OK if the allen hole on the tensioner is not at 4o'clock ?
  21. Great post here. My pathy has not ran for 7 years and been under the carport all that time but I did started it a few years back and cloud of white smoke came out of the exhaust just like the kind of white thick smoke some get after seafoaming their pathy. Any idea what might have caused that? Also on the flushing the old gas, could you please tell me where to find that return line? Is it the rail with a hose just above the bypass hose? Im also assuming when you mentioned to cycle the fuel pump on and off that you just give it a crank but dont let it turn over I was about to sell both my pathy and hardbody and get me a Xterra pro 4x but why spend the money if both rigs have plenty of life left on them Thanks for another great post RC
  22. Thanks for the quick and very informative reply RC. I did move the cams earlier ( cranked it clockwise)and the crankshaft mark lined up to the 3dr line on the belt without moving the crankshaft no problem. both L3 and R3 cams are not lined up with the dimple on upper timing plate by a tooth but like you mentioned its fine. Adjusting the belt tensioner would be different also, the allen hole is not going to be at 4 anymore. Is it ok as long as the belt has about 75-80 degree twist? Everything is lined up now as far as the cam sprockets indents to the lines on the belt at 40 teeth from R3 to L3 and 43 from L3 to crankshaft. Glad I posted before I started cranking that crankshaft to make it line up with the 3rd line on the belt, you saved me some big bucks there Im just puzzled why the original belt lined up with everything perfectly. When I removed the cam sprocket I put a couple of zip ties on the old belt to the sprocket and used a impact gun and got the bolts loose and those sprockets didnt move and all lines are still lined up with the dimples and indents. I was being very careful throughout this project and took my time. After getting the cam sprocket out theres no way that those cam shafts are going to move even the crankshaft is there? Anyways thanks for the help and will triple check tomorrow before I fire her up
  23. Ok guys Im working on a 92 Nissan Hardbody (D21) timing belt. Followed the instruction on all the install procedure on here and did my Pathy and the wifes many years ago with no problem if I remember correctly and correct me if Im wrong here, Arent the D21 has the same motor as our pathy? VG30 To make the story short , When I was putting on the new belt both L3 and R3 cams lines up with the marks and tooth count is 40. Now going from L3 to the crank pulley Im a tooth off (counting at 43 to the crank pulley mark) When I started this project I set it to TDC , rotor is pointing at spark plug wires 1 removed all the covers and everything was lined up on the old belt , however theres no visible marks like white dots like we do on our pathy, I just went by the dimple on the cams back plate and now marked with a white dot and the indent on the cam sprockets also now marked with a white dot ..The crank pulley also has no visible marks when I first took the bottom cover but after cleaning it with sprayway glass cleaner which by the way just melts those nasty grime better than using more harsh chemicals like brake cleaner or gasoline I can see the tiny indent on the crankshaft which lined up with the old belt marking Do I leave my cam sprockets where its at lined up with all the marks and crank the crankshaft by hand clockwise till i can get it to line up with the new belts 43dr tooth mark? Thanks fellas

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