PATHRIDER

put a V8 on your pathy

Thanks again fellas and for that link Fast B howve you been buddy? Hope all is well on your end The poping noise isnt too loud but it bothers the heck out of me and now I hear squeeking noise. I hope that bushing is the culprit. I hear the poping when I hit consecutive bump but running over a single bump nothing..Ill soon find out after I replace the bushing. It shouldnt be so hard on mine coz looking at the rod end and threads where the big nut goes theres no rust but Ive been soaking it with pb just in case Im going to have to get it a rugged rocks, I know its cheap enough but does he charge shipping or any discount for us? I can get a set of Moog or ES on the bay for $15 shipped

for sure ..lols .. I can easily get those 2 nuts loose with a breaker bar but that 24MM nut I have not tried yet. I just tried to fit my wrench on there and the truck needs to be jacked up coz the wrench is hitting ground , once I get it jacked up higher just need some leg muscle to push the wrench away with my foot to loosen it I appreciate all your input fellas and fior the quick reply

Did you guys replaced your bushing because it was making that poping sound? Mine does and it was making that poping sound before then I replaced my lower and upper ball joint , re torqued those 2 nuts facing towards the front by the upper a arms and it went away for a month then Ive been driving my pathy on some rough pot hole infested road and that poping sound came back. I checked everything and the only thing I could think of now is the control rod bushing I hear that poping noise before but didnt feel it under my foot but this time I did thats what led me to beleive my strut rod bushing is shot plus when I checked it itts off centered also

yeah I was trying to get the shortest socket I got on that rear nut Thanks for the tip brotha

Thanks for the quick reply fellas.Im going to get both brand. I might as well replace the other set on my other pathy since after doing an inspection it looks to be dry rotting and off centered Any tips on how to replace em? will the lower control arm get pushed down soon as I take those 2 16MM ( I think) bolts ? Probably need to soak them nuts and bolts with pb also

does anyone have any recommended brand for a strut rod bushing ? Im thinking MOOG on ebay but if you guys have used a better brand please let me know Input is greatly appreciated fellas

anyone has any issues with lights coming on without the switch being turned on? The other night the neighbor knocked at my door and told me my headlight is on and when I came out the right side headlight is dimly lit (battery is almost drained) this is the second time that its happened

glad I clicked on this..I was about to head on out to napa and get some stock boots

Never thought of draining the fluid on the block . I know its on both sides oof the block down below. Do i have to drain the rad coolant also? I did some search on here about knock sensor and most of the members that replaced theirs complained of losing power. I have not lost any power its just that annoying knock that comes and goes now you mentioned that the knock sensor is 4 inches from the rear of the engine block , how can some members pull it out without having to remove the lower intake? i dont see any openings anywhere to see whats below that lower intake,maybe I have to look harder Thanks guys. Im hitting the sack and work on the pathy early in the morning

Thanks bud.. Im going to try and find the wire tomorrow but if I cant get to it like others do Ill just pull the intake. When disconnecting the fuel rails do I have to watch for anything like springs popping out or the ends of those injectors are just sitted inside the intake holes with o rings?

Spoke with a local nissan tech here also and was told 3 things thats whats making it knock first was a bad 02 sensor which is already determined , bad gas and bad sensor For some reason I have the itching to take my plenum off and thinking the knock sensor was underneath there but I was wrong..Is it underneath the intake? This is how far I got

It was more of a tapping or knocking ..It didnt sound like the ticking we hear when theres a manifold leak or when we first start our motor and goes away after a few seconds When I checked my oil after I installed the oil sending unit it was 3/4 full so I filled it back up. am I going to need to take the plenum out to get to the knoch sensor? The error codes on the ECU shows 33 and 34 though so its gotta be the knock sensor and 02 sensor. I even erased the stored error codes on the ECU and did it like 3 time to make sure Im getting the correct reading now to get me motivated I watch this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKO-tZGuFDg&feature=related

It mustve leaked a half quart yesterday from what I can tell so it shouldnt do any damage I hope but just got done checking the ecu for codes and I have a 33 and 34 33= heated oxygen sensor and 34= knock sensor. Ive seen a write up on this before but now cant find it. If I remember correctly the top plenum has to be taken off. If it is I guess itll be a good time to replace that #6 plug also

guys thanks for the quick reply and input..It was the oil sending unit. It was late last night when I started tracing where the leaks at and swear I didnt find any trace by the oil filter and that unit. This morning I started tracing the leak again but as what k9 said I wiped everything and fired it up, waited a few minutes and there it was oil was just coming out from the oil sending unit dripping down on the passenger side ..went and got a new unit and installed and no more drips now another problem arghhhh..when I first started it it has that ticking noise or maybe I should say tapping noise. I let it warn up and that tapping noise comes and goes..funny thing is I pulled up next to a pathy at the post office with the guy sitting inside with his motor running and heard the same tapping on his motor Now im going to do a diagnostic test in a few here...Could this tapping be the fuel injectors gone bad?Like I said it comes and goes.Itll be loud the first time I start the rig then itll go away,took it for a test drive and theres times that that tapping goes louder as I rev up the motor from a full stop and itll go away and theres times that it wont... Ive replaced injectors before on this same rig 4 years ago and cant remember if that was that loud tapping sound I sure appreciate all your input and guide guys. Id be completely lost without your advices

Thanks bud ..Ill be checking for those areas...getting ready to put on my coveralls now and keep you guys posted. If it was the rear seal does it mean I have to drop the transmission right?

well guys it must be my month to spend some time with 2 of my pathy and the hardbody. Started with the hardbody with a blown torque converter..got that fixed then the 94 pathy developed a leak on the exhaust manifold..got that fixed also ...after finishing installing a new manifold gasket I slid underneath the trucks passenger sode to tighten the 3 nuts for the manifold to cross pipe then i discovered that my transmisson oil pan has a leak on it...I figured heck id tighten the 10MM bolts and it should stop...NOT! ..it made the leak worst so i ended up replacing the gasket..oh what a pain it was. i was about to grab a sawzall and cut the damn pipe blocking the front end of the pan but I checked on here and found one of filthy lurkers post on replacing transmisson pan gasket its still a pain in the a getting that pan out ..whoever replaced the pipe that goes across the oil pan must be a rookie ..that pipe was issing the bottom of the pan well as usual afet 8 hours i got it done but anothe problem arise..this time with my 93 black pathy on the way home from sears after pickin up a 10MM swivel socket I noticed a very slight tivking noise and when I finally made it to the carport that ticking got louder and I can smeel burnt oil so I immidiately shut it off and when I looked underneath the truck oil was leaking heavily on the passenger side. At first I thought my filter adapter for my dual filter kit came loose or my oil sending unit but theres no trace of oil on those 2 spots. I crawled underneath and found the bottom of my oil pan and on the side (passenger side) was just drenched with oil now the question is what would cause such a heavy leak like that? Is it my oil pan gasket? Could it be the rear oil seal? any input is again appreciated fellas

Thanks for the input guys.after a close examination of my screw up I discovered that the hole for the easy out on the broken stud wasnt centered so everytime I try to twist is counterclockwise the easy out is grabbing the threaded part of the engine block too , i guess i was just so tired yesterday when i started working on it. I usually do this kind of projects real eraly in the morning. Well I didnt let it win . I went ahead and did the helio coil route Heres a few pics fellas With this arsenal on hand I better win this battle lol This wasnt so bad after all. one tool that made things a heck of a lot easier is a swivel socket, even on a non lifted pathy the swivel socket works awesome. I used to use swivel joints before. If anyone is doing their manifold project I suggest investing on swivel socket and a craftsman easy out. by the way the 2 broken stud was on the passenger side closest to the firewall..On the drivers side I have 4 broken stud but the craftsman easy out it was a breeze pulling them out. Keith I was about to call you yesterday but couldnt find my darn phone B I got your headlight connectors a 4 spindle bolts..Sorry bud those are the only things i could grab at the time.Got to the jy late and while my buddy was trying to yank the torque converter out i was pulling spindle nuts out..by the way the transmission problem i have wasnt the transmission, it was the torque converter

ok guys ive done the broken stud removal 3 times already (probably a total of 8 broken studs in 3 diffrent pathy)and all with success but this time the stud just wont come out and i ended up making the center hole on the bolt bigger and bigger because the easy out is just chewing the heck out of the broken bolt but wont come out now the center hole is so big its almost the size of the hole where the bolt threads to. I think I stripped the threaded on the engine block Has anyone used heli coil? Im scared to drill any deeper and hit the water jacket any suggestions guys

Man Im glad I visited this post..Learned something new again...Thanks guys Only drawback is finding an xterra at my local pull and save by the way what year xterras is interchangeable guys?

got your list B and ill try ok bud Fat chance on the xterra roofrack though 1999 R50 sunroof glass with good seals. Xterra roof rack, early models only. WD21 rubber window seals for the windshield and rear side windows. WD21 headlight wiring plugs. WD21 front corner lights. How many spindle nuts do you need bud?

no way of telling on this one bud..We pulled it from a junkyard so you might be right but after talking to that transmission guy he said he has never worked on a pathy tranny that has no forward and reverse.

Wassup B..been a long time..hope all is well on your end anyhow I did some research and also called a local transmission guru here and was told that the torque converter is his guess..well Im pulling the tranny out anyways so im going to try and replace that converter and cross my fingers .will keep you guys posted oh as far as shifting into gears I can feel some movement on the transmission headin to the jy again tomorrow ..need anything while Im out there B? nothing big though