hawairish

Unlocking using the key in the door or with key fob is supposed to disarm it. Thinking way outside of the box for a moment...how's the condition of your key fob? For those times you aren't home, is your key fob also home? What if the key fob was sending a panic signal, perhaps from the inner contact film being worn? That's something that could trigger the alarm without it being locked. Do you have a cat that likes red buttons on key fobs?

According to the FSM, the horn between the battery and fuse box is the only one related to the alarm. You could just unplug that for the time being, especially for testing. Ha...reminds me of my other weekend...kid neighbor's car kept going off and it was driving me nuts while I was working in my garage. He was having alarm issues, too, and couldn't start his Tiburon. Must've been going on for an hour. Normally I'd help, but I'm not fond of this neighbor. The whole time I kept thinking, "just disconnect the damn horns!". So eventually, the kid comes over (he knows I'm always working vehicles) and asks for help, so I help. Guess what the first thing I did was? Disconnected the horns, of course. Just needed to have the key fob re-registered to the car...a 5-min job. Does the alarm work when it's supposed to? To test, roll down all the windows, lock the doors, reach in and open the door or pop the hood (if it has a hood switch). The Security light blinking pattern corresponds with a particular alarm state, so check the FSM for the patterns. The Owners Manual also has a good description of the system.

According to the 95 FSM, it is indeed a 4-pinion cross shaft. Not sure they make a Lokka to fit that carrier...hopefully they give you an answer soon. But even if you have to exchange it, I presume that'll take a while given international shipping. I'll drop you a PM, though. I have a spare WD21 R200A (presuming you have a V6, not 4cyl w/ R180A) with the 2-pinion carrier, and we can do an exchange.

What's the status of the Security light when the alarm is going off randomly?

No no, the switches in the door jambs. Pull the screw that holds them in, check the condition of the hole and screw (the screw is what grounds the switch to the chassis). I believe there's also a hood switch. The tailgate's switch is integrated into the latch assembly. If any of these are faulty, it'll be as if the door is being opened while the alarm is armed, which triggers the alarm.

Complete link: http://nissanpathfinders.wix.com/r50lift (didn't seem to auto-resolve without the http://)

Possibly. Depends on how the leads look once you get the harness apart. There should be little boots on the backside of the harness that you slide down, then you need a T-pin or similar to 'unlock' the lead from the harness. But with the harness melted like that, you may need to carefully destroy the harness...which may be more trouble than it's worth. If you have the means to cut and splice, that's probably the approach I'd take personally. But, doesn't hurt to try one approach and fall back on cut/splice.

Yeah, I'd say that connector is a likely source of failure.

2002's were still drive-by-cable, though, so I don't think there's an idle re-learn process. However, since you indicated a toasted ECU, you may want to do some additional searching related to the idle air control valve (IACV). I've seen several threads at the NICO forum about R50 owners having a failed IACV that caused ECU damage.

Have you done the FSM diagnostics instead of just replace things on a hunches?

You do have the FSM, right? It does have the diagnostic troubleshooting steps.

The spring is pressing against it, with the rubber insulator in between, so it'll be tough. But...it might work if you can get the spring compressors on them.

97Pathfinderman is asking if he can use regular (non-angled) 2" strut spacers and 2" AC springs with 4" subframe and motor mount spacers in order to put the CVs at stock angles. The answer is yes, absolutely. It's the same concept as my current and previous setups. You'll need a set of 14mm camber bolts.

A few inches from the switch you replaced.

Ok, but that's listed as the Back-up switch, which probably does exactly what JYeager mentioned earlier. The part to check is this one.

Faces inward towards engine, away from wheel. You may even see a "W" stamped on the opposite side...this side goes towards the wheel.

Well done on the homework, JY. That's the right system description. If you're certain the t-case in in gear, then you may want to check the "Transfer Neutral Position Switch" instead (simple continuity check), or perhaps any of the check springs/balls between it and the t-case for wear if the switch checks out ok. If you had the Auto-mode t-case, there'd be a diagnostic code for it from the t-case controller, but otherwise no code.

04MY and earlier Frontiers, Xterras, and Pathfinders are 100mm. Titans are 78mm. Toyotas trucks/SUVs are 106mm. If those fit his Tacoma then either: a. He's already running thick wheel spacers and you'll need to, too, to clear the front hubs. b. They've been bored out to >106mm (buyer beware)

Both look wrong. See XPLORx4's note about the V-notch on the upper spring perch. Both look like the perches needs to be rotated about 90 degs. Top nut at 110 ft-lbs is way over-torqued. I provided the spec'd range earlier.

I'm not familiar with the clips on the older bumpers, but if you can figure out the part number, just search for it on eBay. Any time I've needed plastic clips, that's been my top source.

Flip those numbers...Nissan is 100mm, Toyota 106mm. Those are Nissan wheels.

1. That's how I understand it. Don't know personally, but will be doing something along these lines too (have all the gaskets already). 2. Yes, the aluminum valve covers have serviceable spark plug seals. That kit also includes the grommets used on the perimeter of the covers. 3. What Rebelord suggested. If you have an MT, there are no power valves. Since you'll also remove the throttle body, may as well replace that gasket, too.

They are welded in, so not an easy replacement. Though I think Nissan does in fact have a parts number for the entire cross-members, but it's hard to tell by the diagrams which one it is (and who knows if it's still available). You may want to attempt clean up as Rebelord suggested. While in there, you could have a steel disc with a nut welded on-center, and then weld that disc to the bottom of the perch. This would give you a flat surface for bumpstops, like the OE setup (in your RH pic, the bolt that's there is holding what's left from the OE bumpstop, so that should give you an idea of how it mounts). My guess is there was some mud inside the perch that never got cleaned out and promoted rust whenever it got wet. There's not really any amount of impact that could have caused the problem (even without a bumpstop, the spring would have to compress more than 100% for the perches to make contact).

Nice! Nothing like progress. But yeah, clean that stuff! The most bell-like sounding thing in the rear that I can think of is the metal boot on the shocks.

Bummer, glad it didn't end up worse. You can buy remanufactured OEM wheels on Rock Auto, check the Wheels section for your model. Every now and then you can what you need on eBay...just be sure to use at least "OEM" in the search otherwise you get a bunch of crap results back.