hawairish

The D44 axle can be a tough find, but would be worth it. The axle is closer to the H233B in size (H233B is still a beefier axle all around!) while the D30 is much closer in size to the older R180 than the R200. Rust will surely be an issue in most places (not so much here the desert), given the donor age. And you'll almost certainly need new gears to get close to OE Nissan ratios. Because of that, you'll also have to be mindful of the "carrier break" (the ratio in which a different carrier is required to account for ring gear thicknesses), when thinking about your setup. For 33" tires, 4.88 would be a good match to the OE 4.90s from an Xterra. 5.13 (41:8) gears exist for the H233B, and it's an exact match to a D44 option...perfect for 35".

Thanks, mjotrainbrain, I appreciate that. That route is a long way away for me (although, there are two D44 Wagoneer axles on my local CL, and one already has a Detroit in it...though I'd put another air locker in it since I'm already set up for it). Plus, there's something else I want to work on before tackling a project like that. As for the links, yes there are a few option for Jeeps. Though, the R50 ones are already much longer, and with OE ones running $36/ea, that price is hard to beat...of course, being able to use that length depends on a few factors. (In regards to the front driveshaft, Nissan Nut's site has a lot of great info about that.) SellOut: regarding your thought of using (rather, replicating) a Jeep setup, this is also something that has cross my mind. The XJ/WJ would, in my opinion, be the best to consider. Driver's side drop, 4-link, narrow diameter coils (and no shortage of length options)...if you could replicate those geometries and incorporate that into a new subframe, that seems like it would be reasonable option. Even a complete donor truck would be affordable, entirely for the suspension parts. The only cons to this I've been thinking about are the width of the axle (I think it might be just a little too narrow), the wheel bolt pattern (adapters exist, and would help with the width), and the strength of the D30 axle. The Jeep community tends to dislike this axle in general because it's not terribly strong...but usually when I see complaints like this, I presume it to mean guys who jumped to 35's, never regeared, and broke stuff. Nonetheless, there are some D30s to avoid altogether (those with vacuum disconnects), while some have potential. An axle truss reads like a should-have option for them, but I feel like this axle would would probably be beyond sufficient for a modest SAS. Plus, these axles are extremely abundant and cheap.

I think a full frame would be excessive, and I wouldn't see the benefit of removing the existing rear link setup. However...a new front subframe for the SAS portion would be an optimal approach (and one that I've been thinking about myself for a while now). Despite what the R50 is in regards to unibody and suspension, one advantage for an SAS is that the steering, suspension, and drivetrain simply unbolts from the chassis via the existing subframe...clean slate! Nothing to grind, nothing more to remove. The existing strut buckets make for perfect coil, strut, or coilover mounting (I mean, the bucket already serves this purpose, and would not need any new reinforcement), and everything is already cleared for the axle. With subframe removed, you could build a simple frame that boxes in the front radiator support to the existing subframe mounts, and back to the transmission crossmember. Potentially, all bolt on. (It stands to reason if the current subframe bolts already support everything, a replacement frame wouldn't be much different.) A reinforced radiator support provides mounting points for the leafs, and a new crossmember with hangers for the rear spring or rear link mount. You'd also need to add motor mount perches to the new subframe, but with old subframe down, you have the exact measurements you need. Probably the most challenging part will be swapping in a steering gearbox. It would be best incorporate a mounting plate to the new subframe that puts it where the existing pivot gearbox is, but the inner fender area has a structural tube/rib in that area as part of the chassis. It looks like that structural tube is rather square and I wonder if the interior to this is accessible behind the crush cans of the bumper...if so, you could potentially slide in a steel tube with welded nuts to provide the mounting mounts (or through-holes to bolt into the wheel well). Wouldn't surprise me if a Hardbody/Frontier gearbox was compact enough here and shared the same pressure line fitting sizes...and possibly even use the steering shaft from it. If I take an approach like this, I will most likely try to use the OE rear links (at least the lowers) as front links, or any Jeep links. I think the latter are shorter, but there'd be a ton of off-the-shelf options.

I would just buy the Woodward one. All the homework has been done.

Original SFD guys were welding joints from some Honda car model onto the OE link. Not sure what model, could never find those details. You can't just use a spacer...the OE link has a single joint in it, and a second joint becomes required when the distance between the pivot gearbox and steering rack increases.

That's correct. The R50 front diff uses reverse cut gears; no aftermarket options exist. Every other model uses standard cut gears, and there are front/rear options up to 5.14 available.

If you've already got the 4.636 gears, that's the lowest you're getting. If 4.363, your only option is to jump to the 4.636.

I agree with XPLORx4. In fact, I had this happen on my Frontier once, same code...the thin-film circuit board had developed a hairline crack at the harness, and was interrupting the signal from cluster to ECU. Bought a new circuit board from Nissan and swapped it. Not sure if it's the same option for the R50, though.

Used my OBA (recently relocated to the engine compartment) as the air supply for my nail gun, which I used to construct some badly needed garage shelves.

Probably, though it's been termed "Titan Swap" or "T-Swap" around the Nissan community (the Titan and Armada share front suspensions). A few guys I wheel with (including a heavily modified R51) have done the swap, though I think there's some caveat to the R51 specifically. The basic concept is to use the upper and lower control arms, struts, CVs and front diff (or not, if 2WD) on 05+ Frontier, Xterra, Pathfinder for more travel and a wider stance. My understanding is that it's entirely bolt-on, too. As for the R51, I say there's a caveat because the guy I know has a very custom UCA setup...which means he either did because he can (he does weld), or because he needed to. I believe the primary concern is the UCA striking the top of the strut/coil bucket and cracking (yes, cracking) the steel during travel. Don't recall if it was specifically from using the Titan UCA, or just an aftermarket one. Talk to the guys at http://www.azxterraclub.com/forum. "Thundertrooper" (Vic) is the guy with the R51, but seemingly everyone there knows about, or has done, the T-Swap already. And since you're in NV, this group does an annual run called CANVAZ (CA, NV, AZ); it's being hosted in AZ in Oct.

I can't really contribute anything here, except maybe for this... I had to do a physics lab for this back in college. You can approximate weight without scales like so: https://www.exploratorium.edu/snacks/tired-weight

I've had great service from both BT and CP. Just this week, actually, CP was cool with refunding my shipping costs when I mentioned that UPS detoured my package through NJ on the way from TX to AZ, delaying delivery by a few days. Also, discount code "nis10" at CP is good for 10% off. That's usually enough to cover most/all of shipping, and justification for me to stick with CP.

Nissanpartsdeal.com and the official Nissan USA parts site are what I've resorted to for any amount of detailed parts specs these days. I wasn't a fan of Courtesy Parts' new website, either, but I still purchase from them regularly. Nissanparts.cc (Bruce Titus Nissan in Olympia) is another that I used to frequent for parts and especially cross-referencing, but they recently went with the same retail platform as CP. Speaking from an IT perspective, you'll continue to see dealerships and other parts retailers shift over to retail platforms, like Revolution Parts (which Courtesy and Bruce Titus now use), because they offer outsourced inventory management. All the dealership has to do is provide some information, a couple logos, link their inventory software to the platform API (or migrate their data to the platform's database), and everything else (website, transactions, parts networks, IT, etc.) is handled externally. The platform takes in the order, and the dealership just fulfills it. In doing so, they might lose access to better parts explosions and uncommon parts (like location-specific hardware), but they're more likely to clear the more-common maintenance parts sitting on shelves. Nissan offers a similar parts platform for dealers which is obviously far more comprehensive from a parts perspective, but very generic in terms of branding. There's probably also network support for non-stock inventory through Nissan, but the retail platforms are surely not without their own network of parts dealers. Rob's dealership still uses the same data backend that Bruce Titus used to use. When you compare all three websites, it becomes very obvious the difference between supporting your own website with just a data backend vs. outsourcing a total inventory solution.

I might hit the JY this weekend. I'll keep an eye out if I do.

Yes, you should hear it click every time. If it does and still doesn't allow shifting, you'll probably want to take a look at the solenoid and release mechanism, to make sure everything is attached properly and moves freely. It's the white/yellow assembly in the pic: This part, specifically: In my case, this switch below had failed on mine...I replaced it with an identical switch from Digikey for a couple cents. The previous owner, however, had just wedged a 1/2" long piece of rubber tubing into the manual release assembly, so that it could just always be shifted with or without a key (wasn't a fan of that). This switch and the brake switch must be closed in order for the solenoid to trigger and release the shifter.

Haha, seriously. And that's just the stuff I have laying around now, plus more drum brake stuff on a shelf. Anyone need anything? WD21 axle shafts perhaps? The LSD was rebuilt to 160 ft-lbs the other week, if anyone's interested.

Yeah, I know a thing or two, too (LSD in the forefront, with a stack of discs behind it)...

Word. Now, there are in fact orange Nissan stickers that do say "VISCOUS LSD", but they should only be found on the RWD cars that had R180/R200 rear diffs like the 300ZX, 240SX, a few Infiniti cars, and what not...just not in an H233B (or C200) rear diff found on trucks/SUVs.

Metaphorically speaking, I'll let you spin your tires all you'd like on the discussion. Unless your Pathfinder badge says 300ZX, it doesn't have a VLSD...unless someone has swapped it into your front diff. You could always check your FSM (PD-49) for disc and plate counts, but I compiled that info here when I was rebuilding a pair to swap into my truck and a buddy's truck.

Yeah, it's an e-locker based on the Eaton design. More expensive than an ARB, but about the same when you factor in everything needed for an air setup. Very certain. I've rebuilt/repacked 4 of them in the past year or two. I'll send you a pic of the 20+ spare discs and a completed unit sitting on my workbench if you'd like.

Is that a Harbor Freight winch channel? I was thinking about using that for something very similar. Looks good, kudos for making it work! To Bobbyyy's point, looks like you may have had a little real estate higher? I don't think it's too low for function, but it does appear to take away some departure angle, so be mindful of that. Also, the drum release handle...you should be able to clock that side of the winch so that the handle isn't hidden, and is facing forward for accessibility.

There were no OEM lockers for Nissans pre-04, except in the Patrol. 05+ have optional OE e-lockers in the M226 axles. Switching to 31-spline would only be to use the lunchbox lockers or this Detroit. There are air and e-locker options for the 33-spline, just not lunchbox-style lockers. Your LSD is clutch-based, not viscous. Yes, a front Lokka, in my opinion, is the next cheapest and reasonable traction upgrade for your setup. Yes...er, both. You'd need 31-spline shafts to make the Detroit, Lock-Right, Spartan, and Lokka lockers work in the rear. All would require swapping things around. To avoid swapping all that, you'd need to buy an ARB, TJM, or Harrop (Eaton) lockers for 33-spline applications.

They do make Detroits for 31-spline H233B models (D21 Hardbody, WD21 Pathfinders, and 99-00 D22 Frontiers). That Summit listing is a horrible mix of bad info, including the part number. Going by the "Summit Racing Part Number: DTL-187SL167A" reference, it's for the aforementioned Nissans according to the latest catalog (pg. 12): http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128302.pdf. You could go this route, but you'd still need the Frontier 31-spline shafts (and it'd be almost as expensive as the ARB).

Nope. All other axles were leaf-sprung. Custom perches, custom driveshaft and/or flange, custom brake lines...and probably a total mismatch on gearing since all the newer stuff came with high ratio gearing in the 3's. Lost cause. Cheapest route is the 31-spline swap and mechanical locker swap I mentioned in another thread.

You'd have to swap the entire axle; completely custom job. The e-lockers came in 2nd gen Xterras and Frontiers...different axle than R50.