Terranovation

I think it's cool to see other people still driving them. Here in Australia, I maybe see one or two per week but that's it. They are getting rare. I don't really see any of the next model up either.

Is there anyway you can utilise the P N D R plastic display? I would try to make something to cover it, like an old plastic icecream bucket lid, spray paint it black and cut it to shape with a slot down the middle so the gear lever fits. Just an idea. Get creative!

I think it's funny how other owners have to have a look at what other Pathys. It's like ooohh look there's a Pathfinder lol

As far as I know it's just rocker cover off and the lifters are right there.

This should be stickied so others know how to fix it. Good job!

I think your fuel tank is leaking a bit there. Under that fuel tank metal protector is a drain bolt. Mine was leaking from the exact location and I waited until I was nearly empty, undid the drain bolt, cleaned it up with degreaser then put clear silicone on the bolt and screwed it back in with an extra smear of silicone around the outside of the bolt. No leaky now.

I'm using 15w40 which is quite a 'heavy' oil so would adding a qt of atf make it a bit thinner? I'm not fussed because it's winter here so it's better to use a thinner oil in winter from what I know.

I have a bit of a ticking noise too which goes away once it's warm. I saw here somewhere that adding trans fluid to the oil change can lubricate and clean the lifters or even adding a bit of trans fluid to the fresh oil can help so I'm going to do this on my next oil change.

Drove 1,450 miles on a three day outback holiday. Now I have a tinny clicking noise when I turn left. Suspect it's cv related.

The only time I've actually seen the A/T light come on wad when I was a passenger in a mate's Terrano on the beach. The sand must have had the auto working hard in 2nd. I have the exact same light in mine and I have the old square dash. The red light goes on when you turn the key then goes off at start up. Keep a check on the dipstick that the fluid is in the cross hatched HOT zone after 20 mins of driving, check with engine running and in P. Fluid should be nice red or pink in color and smell sweet. Feel the fluid too between your fingers. It shouldn't feel gritty or look brown. Those are not good to have or see.

You need to take your cluster out and tighten the screws on the back of it.

Mine had the high idle thing and it was because I changed the coolant but didn't run the fan with the temperature on hot. I could hear coolant splashing around in the heater box and once I put the heater on, it must have filled up with coolant then I added more coolant to get the air out. Idle returned to normal doing this. Try running the fan on hot.

Just did some minor aesthetic spray painting, fixed up the paint chipped wiper arms with some new gloss black and repainted the three bonnet plastic inserts on the front gloss black. Sanded everything first then primer coated, sanded smooth with 600 grit then applied top coat.

This is good stuff and should be in the how to section.

Could be the fusible link right next to your battery. If you pull on those wires and they snap, then they are burnt and need replacing. Same thing happened to me when I replaced my alternator, there was a buzz then a bit of electric smoke. Luckily I saw where the smoke came from so I found out what the problem was. Symptoms were - headlights work, dash lights dead, clicking noise from relay when trying to turn key.

You can also move the slide plate guide up a bit just undo the bolt and move it up. It's directly down from the the rear wiper. On the left side you have the catch guide where it locks into place on the right is the slide guide. Adjust it until it sits flush with the frame of the tail gate. Lubrication of the pivots is by opening up the tail gate and look for the small holes on the inside framework near where it pivots. Chain oil or silicone lube is good but any old oil will keep it going. Mine swings open with one finger.

Did the oil change and new filter, cost $103 for 10 litres of oil and the filter! $48 for the trans fluid! So I didn't buy the trans fluid. Going to have to wait for next week.

Also check you haven't fried the alternator, I hear these things have a tendency to burn out their bushes from excess voltage.

I just took the plastic door thing off and shine a torch in there. It's like ear canal surgery, because you have to try and crane your head around into that space. There's also a white plastic connector you can unclip for the globes. The new tail light just clip the connector back in, it's plug n play.

I fixed mine by heating it up in a mug of hot (not boiling) water. Hold the needle at one end and stick the other end in the hot water for a couple of minutes. Then take the needle end and stick between a couple of popsicle sticks, wrap tight around that with lacky bands. Doesn't have to be exactly this, you could also put the needle end between a couple of big heavy books, anything that is heavy and flat basically. I left mine for a couple of days and then I found it was finally straight. If not, repeat the process. Heat it up in hot water, then put between something heavy to straighten it out. Patience is the key.

Replace front and rear bushings, front upper/lower bushings, check shockies, idler arm bushings and check idler arm isn't twisted out of shape and get a wheel alignment. I'd love to see the wear on the tyre treads, must be crazy worn on one side.

I remember doing my tail light, I just looked at the new one I had to put in, there's three bolt screws, one on the top, one about half way down the side and one at the base. I used that as a reference to feel around in there to feel where the screws go. Managed to feed a 8mm? socket in there to get the screws, I thought they would be finger tight but they need a bit more than that to ensure a good seal. The screw at the top is a biarch to get to, especially with a socket. There's hardly any room in there if you've got Paul Bunyan hands.

You say the rock clipped the rear tyre, maybe a part of the rock has knocked off a fuel hose line. If the truck went a short distance, sputtered then died, that sounds like fuel related. No fuelly to enginey = no goey.

Yes I have been using Castrol Transmax here in Australia. Used that and just normal Castrol Dexron III. The Transmax costs a bit more but I find shifting gear is easier on the auto, feels better and much smoother changes.

I'm thinking they put it in 4wd 4H mode by accident, hence the drop in power. Hope they weren't driving on tarmac in 4wd mode that's a good way to destroy your transfer.