Terranovation

New engine fan has arrived, now just need a day off to put it in. Old one has cracks around the centre. After ten years of me driving it, it's held together pretty well.

Found a perfect size rubber hose for one of my compression lines, the port the hose had to join onto was micro small diameter and the only hose available was 8mm which even then was too big. I eventually found the rubber cord that fits around fly screen doors actually had a hole going through it so it was usable as a hose connection! Tested in boiling water just in case to make sure it doesn't melt and it survived the heat test.

Just a quick one, so how do I remove the tach needle is it just pry off with a fork? I don't want to damage the tacho so will I need to do anything else? The reason I want to take the needle off is because heat is finally starting to bend it to the point it's started to catch on the gauge face, just after the 2,000 rpm mark. I thought I was getting great revs at 60 mph and 2,000 rpm lol.

Could be fusible link connection at the + terminal of the battery. Try turning the key to ACC then jiggle the fusible link up and down to see if you get a buzzing noise then you know the connection isn't good.

Maybe the electrical tape that was there has crumbled and fallen off. I'd get under there and tape everything up then even put shrink tubing on the wires to make it more waterproof. Spray everything with WD 40 to keep the water off.

Well generally speaking, electrics don't like water so when it rained and those wires got wet, of course the fuse would go bye bye. That's it doing it's job preventing a fire. My only question is how did water manage to get in there? In the back above the fuel tank, those wires are covered by carpeting so no water should be able to get there unless you washed the back carpet.

What colour is the wire itself? Usually if it's red it's a power wire, black is a ground wire and should be screwed to a nut on the body.

Well normal bulbs use something like 5w to power them, leds use only 1.2w so the power you save is 24% off your lighting. Yes the dash is a hell of a lot brighter. I got smd leds that have 9 leds on the actual bulb, so they are a 360 degree spread of light. Don't get the ones that only have one led on the end they are crap. They only shine forwards and you'll get what is known as 'hot spots' so only one section of the dash looks hell bright and you'll be able to see 40, 60 on the dash but everything else is dim. I haven't changed every single bulb in there, there's though little tiny skinny bulbs that are bright enough. My truck doesn't have one of those dimmer wheels and yes I checked the centre vents, there is no dimmer wheel. My dash used to be so dark at night it was an effort just seeing the faint greenish glow. With the leds you can just see them in dusk conditions, barely just noticable in sun but as soon as the sun dips over the horizon you can see them kick in. I also did my centre air control display, there's a single bulb behind there which looks to be impossible to get at but I did a video a while back.

Not so much work on the car today, I'm waiting for a new fan I picked up off Ebay for $55 AUD, not bad. My old fan has cracks all around the centre rim which have been there for a few years but I suspect it's getting worse so I better change it before I destroy my rad. Gave all my tools an overnight soaking in CLR to remove 10 years worth of rust and grime. It's great at removing calcium, lime and most importantly rust. Gave the tool box a good spray out with degreaser and washed it. Wow, whose tools are those! Looks brand new now.

Will it start up if you've charged up the battery even? What's the voltage reading? Could be a bad battery or alternator could be (but not hopefully) on it's way to alty heaven.

Would be a good starting point, replace your negative battery cable, sand the connections so they are touching bare metal on the vehicle and engine block. Check the fusible link wire is connected properly and firmly to the positive terminal. May pay to put ring connectors on them then thread them onto the bolt that goes through your + terminal connection. I did this to mine and it's been good ever since. I was experiencing a bouncing tacho needle and flickering dash lights and it was due to the connections at the battery.

I changed all my dash lights to leds and I didn't have any problems or needing resistors and such. The turn signal green arrows on the dash blink more crisply than normal filament bulbs, which looks great.

Discovered a cool method of finding out where the fan bolts are located. Grab a sheet of A4 paper, then press it down over the centre of the fan where it bolts on. Remove paper and the bolts will show up on the paper because of the road grime! Also handy way of measuring the bolt gap across the fan so you can order the right size if you need one.

HIDs and clear tail lights! Oh and don't forget the Nismo stickers and mesh back head rests!

Three years is a long time between transmission fluid changes. I change mine at least once a year. I know it doesn't always need to be done, I just do for the peace of mind knowing it has fresh Dexron III in there.

In 1987, the first generation Terrano was entered in the 9th Paris to Dakar rally race, with continued entries in rally races for many years, winning multiple times in its category. Terrano is basically the exact same body as Pathfinder.

Grinding whirring noise, hmm. Well that for me was an alternator that was on it's last legs. The belt could be making that noise too. Check your belts and alternator. How do they look? If the belts haven't been changed and look old I'd change them anyway just for peace of mind and see if it eliminates the noise. It could also be the reason for a jumping speedo needle due to an irregular belt or old alternator causing an electrical fluctuation.

Sounds like the flasher relay is dead, get your head under the steering wheel, you should see it clipped unto a plastic retainer somewhere around the upper back of the fuse panel. There's a bunch of wires back there so be careful you don't pull any of those out.

Installed new alternator and it's working great! No more hoping the car will start in the morning lol

You'll probably even get an extra inch by putting in new shock absorbers.

You can't 'just notice' a broken cv. Cv joints do make a clicking, clacking or god forbid, screeching noise. The only way to properly check them is to get them out (both outer and inner) and clean all the grease off them to inspect. It's a pretty messy job to do, preferably done on a weekend with a few spare hours.

New alternator ordered and arriving hopefully next Monday. For now I have to put the battery on trickle charge every night. Battery still in good condition so it's accepting a charge. The old alternator which is probably the original was only putting out 0.2 volts. Tested battery at rest 12.7. With engine running 12.9. With lights on 12.45.

Maybe you could get lucky by draining the oil and with a bit of flushing out with kerosene the screws will come out the drain. I don't know but it's worth trying.

For me the buzzing noise was a wire rubbing and shorting out, I have glow plugs on mine since it's a diesel. The glow plug wire was rubbing against metal so electrical tape sorted that one out.

Maybe you playing with the wires somehow fixed the issue. Maybe something wasn't clipped in right.