Terranovation

Discovered a grease nipple on the prop shaft near trans pan. Never knew it was there until now. Discovered while I was under there degreasing everything. Damn found I need a new tube of grease for my grease gun too lol.

I'm lucky I have a drain nut on my pan, so every 2nd oil change I do the trans fluid. I know it's like $48 for trans fluid but I'd rather replace the old stuff rather than leave it until it's too late. To me, the auto trans is like a ticking time bomb, you never know when, so to me it's prevention ($48) is better than the cure ($2,000 at mechanics) Been refreshing my auto trans fluid since I needed it rebuilt and it's been going great since 2009 and well over 120,000 kms on it so far without any problems.

Yeah and don't use hockey pucks as body spacers, like I've seen suggested by a few hillybillies. I won't mention names but y'all know who you are.

When was the last time you drained and refilled the trans fluid? What colour is it? My TD27 trans is fine, it's strong and doesn't slip gears even if it's going uphill. Are you using the right trans fluid? I use Castrol Dexron III it's the one for Asian vehicles it says on the front of the container. Hopefully yours has a drain nut on the trans pan like mine. I'd start by changing the trans fluid. You will probably have to do it a couple of times because the torque converter holds a couple of litres which will not intially drain out. So you'll have to either do a fluid flush by taking off the trans cooler hose and put that into a bucket, start up the engine and watch the fluid get pumped out. Then when it starts spluttering fluid, stop the engine. Then basically refill the trans with fresh fluid. You'll need about 6 or 7 litres from memory, I just bought two containers to be safe. Refill trans with 4 litres, then start engine and fill the rest up check the dipstick every now and then so you don't overdo it.

Something I know is if the idle is high, you could have air in your radiator that needs to be bled. You can burp the radiator by parking on an incline with the front higher than the rear. Open the radiator cap When Cold, start the engine and watch for bubbles coming out the radiator. It might take around 5-10 minutes. You might even hear the rpms drop which means it's finished burping. Top off with coolant then put cap back on.

I don't like the sound of 'bit dirty' fluid should always look nice strawberry red and smell fresh. If it feels gritty and smells like burnt toast then that's bad.

I'm thinking somehow a speaker wire is connected to a wire on the cig lighter socket which might account for a blown fuse on the stereo. Or the black ground wire is screwed onto the cig lighter socket.

Thanks for that, yeah at the moment I have a lot of work on so for now Il just have to keep the radiator and reservoir topped up with distilled water. I check it every couple of days. It's a bit of a pain but at least it's winter and won't overheat in this weather because I'm driving in real early hours of the morning.

Well that's correct, the wires are color coded. Purple to purple, green to green, brown to brown etc. What I'm thinking is he has accidentally got one solid color wire mixed up with the same color wire but with a black line on it. There's a positive and negative wire for each color so one is a solid and the other had a black strip. Yes, you are correct about my arrangement of wiring. It's just the way I happened to find it when I pulled the 2nd hand stereo out. Lucky it wasn't a mess back there and I could see what the p.o. did.

I usually find changing my oil and trans fluid gives me more giddy ups lol

I would even go as far as add another couple inches length to the same gauge wire so that it is an easy to repair item if it breaks off again, if ever.

From my own experience with installing a new stereo, the original had a proper 'cage' slot which needed to be screwed onto the new one so it would fit properly. The wiring connector wouldn't fit the new one. Lucky the p.o. had fitted screw down type connectors..on each wire. So it was a matter of unscrew wire, put in new wire. 15 minutes later all the original wires were connected to the new adapter. The worse part about the whole thing was the p.o. wrapped everything in like 3 metres of electrical tape and everything was sticky. I really hate electrical tape! Also a handy tip, the red wire was left blank not inserted into anything because it runs off the battery so everytime you turn the key, the stereo will not automatically turn on. Some people like it that way but I don't want the stereo on auto. Be careful though because not all our Pathys are the same electrical wise but mine was yellow to battery, black to ground and red wire just leave hanging with some tape on the end.

Heard a rustling noise near my trans shifter, I managed to lift the plastic up a bit on one side of the center console at the base and pulled out an old yellow invoice form of some sort. There was Japanese writing on it. I think it must be from original Nissan factory. I have kept it and put in glove box.

I checked that smaller hose but it's not that. It's definitely leaking at the water pump. Got a price on it and they aren't cheap. $350 Australian if you please.

I remember one of my high beams wouldn't work and would just switch off the headlight completely so I used the sandpaper trick and cleaned the contacts inside the switch. I can't believe how simple it was. Just a couple of screws, undo the steering column cover. 15 mins later both high beams working again thanks to this forum!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Binder-Clip-Phone-Car-Mount/ This is what I'm talking about. I opened up the metal part so it fits over the dashboard surround and I can still charge my phone with the cig lighter usb connector.

There's also the book binder mobile phone holder. I use that attached to the console surround. Works really well on and off road.

Yeah, Australia is what we say 'bloody hot' even this year, during June when it's supposed to be winter we have had 23 degrees Celsius and lots of sun. In summer we can get consecutive days of 40 Celsius and above. The hottest it's ever been here in Perth was 48 Celsius so that one time we were the hottest location on the planet.

Lol no, it was a screw that holds my intercooler mount to the support bracket of the alternator. The intercooler was sitting up too high and rubbing a bit on the underside of the hood, causing the vibrations. Simply tightening this one bolt fixed all the shakes, rattles and rolls!

Retightened a screw under the bonnet - it's amazing how one bolt that's loose can make the whole truck vibrate. It's a furnangler of a thing.

What do the switches have on them? Where are they located, in front of you just lower of the dashboard or next to the hand brake? On mine the switches just lower of the dash are the transmission power/hold/auto switch, this switch is to put auto trans into power mode or hold mode is for keeping it in 2nd gear from a standing start. Then I have warning lights switch which makes all indicators flash if I have pull off the side of the road in an emergency situation. Then I have on the right hand side a defog switch, to defog the rear window (doesn't really work that well) and just below that I have rear window release switch which works great although I hardly use it.

I don't think that windscreen will fit. Anything up to a 95 will.

Also that gas is illegal to vent into our precious atmosphere.

The alternator keeps the battery charged while running and the battery is only a year old so that's fine. You'll get three to four years life out of a battery from my experience. The fluke meter is probably more or less accurate and the dash volt gauge is probably really old so it's not going to be giving you accurate readings. I always check my battery with my multimeter when I'm checking oil etc.

Oil and trans fluid change nothing much exciting but it's good to see all the black oil exiting out.