Terranovation

Look out for swindlers trying to make a quick buck. No seriously, watch out for people who look shifty and don't have any service records for the vehicle, observe any squeaks, bounce the vehicle up and down at both ends. Remember if it bounces more than twice, the shocks are goners. Look at the engine cleanliness. Does it look well maintained? Or have spider webs galore? A lot of stealerships will try to hide the fact that it's a bad engine by degreasing the engine, shining up everything with armorall. Sure it looks nice. Doesn't hide the fact that it has 600,000 miles on it. Always check odometer. If the odometer has low miles, chances are the stealership rewound it and that is illegal. Check everything on the vehicle - lights, tread on tyres, seats condition, body work and especially rust under the back seats. To me, the best Pathy to buy would be one owned by an original or at least 2nd owner, well maintained by the owner and garaged with all optional extras. That would be a DREAM sale and chances of that happening are getting lower by the day. As for what type of Pathy to get, I'm going to say the 1987-1994 ones. Basically because I have had my 91 for 10 years now and it's such a joy to own. Sure it's been through a couple of batteries, a dead alternator and had a faulty power steering pump and a bad fuel pump but it's not bad for ten years worth of driving.

So the hazard switch works (both arrows flashing ok) but indicator pull up or down the individual arrows not working? Check front indicator globes, check the wiring behind them too. Sometimes rocks or twigs can catch on the wiring and rip it out of the socket. It's either that or you might need to check the headlight switch and stalk. Remove steering wheel cover and then you'll see two bronze screws, unclip the wiring connector then you'll have the headlight switch with stalk in your hands. Move the stick up and see if it's gummed up inside. These things have a tendency of gathering oily crap over the years. Try cleaning the switch out using tweezers and a rag to wipe the gunk off on. After cleaning it out from both top and bottom, if it's still not letting you indicate then you'll need a new headlight switch and stalk or source from wreckers.

I'm assuming he has a jap import, same as what was imported to Australia. I believe the wiring for the trans might be slightly varied in comparison to Pathfinders because Japanese imports had sone nice luxury pieces included. Whether it's related to the trans I don't know. I know I have the exact same plug in switch next to my trans underneath that plugs into the side but mine is working fine. I cleaned it up since I was cleaning under there.

The glue they originally used looks like some sort of double sided tape which was easy to remove because of age.

That would be your headlight switch. That has metal tabs inside that probably aren't touching when you press the lever down or up. So clean the contacts with some light grade sandpaper, checking every now and then to see if they start working. Are front indicators working? Because I know if a globe there is busted then the turn signals won't work.

Nice write up - I disconnect mine by opening the plastic access then by just unclippibg the male female white connector, this way the bulbs and attached wires remain in the sockets when you remove the lamp. The top screw can be hard to get to, you need a rachet bar to get to it. I remember the middle nut and bottom one are fairly easy access. The hard part of it is you can't really see much and you have to go by feel. Easier when you have the new tail light then you have an idea where to feel for the, ahem, nuts to unscrew. Oh and the original tail lights have some sort of glue holding the rubber gasket to the body. On mine it was really aged and after a good wipe with a wet rag it comes off. Also be careful tightening the new tail light in. Only go as tight until the rubber gasket surround is making contact with the body otherwise you might crack the lenses.

Something I do to reduce lifter tick is add a bit of ATF to the clean oil during oil change. I let the oil drain out then pour atf in. It cleans more of the old oil out of the sump and at the same time lubricates the lifters. Or even try adding atf to the old oil, run it for 10 mins at idle then drain. Should clean them up pretty good. Last time I checked the top of my crankcase with a mini camera it was clean and shiny inside, most likely due to the atf. I believe it works better than the engine flush stuff that is basically kerosene in an overpriced brightly colored bottle.

Thought I'd get upside down on my drivers side floor and look at the wiring just for the fun of it. Saw an interesting little fuse box and poked at it with my finger, the damn thing just fell down hanging by it's wiring! There was a tiny zip tie half around it that wasn't done up properly so I secured it with a satisfying zzzip! Tried the key just to make sure everything was still good and no probs.

The blower is held in with three 8mm? screws I believe, then you can undo the mouse wheel and clean it. I used degreaser and an old toothbrush to clean all the fins on it, rinse off with warm water and towel dry be careful not to break the fins. Remove your glove box and behind that you'll unscrew a metal plate. Behind that you can remove the resistor and vacuum out the crud in the evap box but beware of nasty stuff like spiders and bitey things.

I remember paying $54 for a brand new tail light after a little car park shopping trolley incident lol. I accidently backed into a stray trolley, it broke my tail light. I was just glad it was a lamp and not actual body work that was dented. The new tail light (after market not genuine Nissan but identical) came with bulbs and wiring harness to plug into the original connector.

Oil change yesterday, never buying the cheaper brand of oil filter again! Although it was $3 cheaper and had a nice glossy black color, that glossy black made it a biarch to get a grip on to install, had to use a pair of garden gloves just to get it spinnin on there.

Check your fuses I'm certain something might be blown there. Look to the bottom right of your drivers seat and check the fuse panel - bottom row, 2nd fuse from the right side. It should be a 10A fuse for 'Shift Lock'. I remember when I lost reverse and it was this fuse that had blown. As for the electrical connector next to the trans I wouldn't solder it just yet. You might be able to connect up some brand new heavy gauge wires. Crimp and put shrink tube over the top. I wouldn't go trying to solder old wiring together. Cut out the old wires and put brand new ones into the connector if it's possible to get them out of the plastic coupling.

Installed my ebay impulse buy, mini digital voltmeter into the dash cluster, yes, behind the plastic window. Pulled the center trim out, connected the wires to back of the cig lighter socket so the volt meter only goes on when the ignition is on. Fed the wires down and then up to the steering column. Then removed the dash cluster and unclipped the plastic back part. Had to drill a hole in the base of the cluster to feed the two wires through to connect the digital meter. Stuck it down with double sided tape. Tested the meter before screwing everything back together. Carefully fed the excess wiring up under the cluster and taped it down. Looks great, like it was a factory optional extra or something.

Mine sits just over 2,500 at 60 mph so probably 2,550.

Now that's what I call a driveway. Man, that thing is wide.

I'm going to be installing a mini led volt meter into the dash, it was one of those "I bet I can fit that" moments. Lol it was only $1.50. The size is 1 in x .5 inch thickness. It's pretty tiny so it's about the same size as the digital clock. I want to put it behind the plastic window on the speedo side. There's a gap between where the gauge is where the two wires can feed thru without having to drill holes. I know black wire goes to ground and I guess red wire goes to ignition 'on'. I want it to illuminate only when the truck is on and running. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-LED-DC2-5-30V-Red-Volt-Voltage-Meter-Display-Digital-Voltmeter-Self-Powered-/200960460374?nav=SEARCH

Just thought I'd do a write up on how to replace your fan. So have a look at your fan first (obviously) If it's got cracks running right up along the center rim between the fan blades then it's time to start thinking about getting a new one. Do a search for one via Ebay, or whatever works for you. Just make sure you order the correct size part. To remove the old fan, you must remove the radiator. It's virtually impossible to get enough room in there to remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the fan. Step 1 - remove the rock bash plate underneath. Usually held on with 3 10mm bolts at the front, 3 10mm bolts rear. Slide away to the back of the oil sump. Step 2 - Looking up, unclip the bottom fan shroud piece. You might want to have the hood up and have a torch or work light for this part. The bottom fan shroud unclips by pushing in a plastic tab. There's one on each side of the fan shroud about halfway up. Step 3 - Unbolt fan shroud. There should be 4 screws to undo, two on each side, top and bottom. On mine there was one screw missing, which was easily replaced. Phillips head screwdriver for this or you might have some other design of bolts holding it on. Use what you need to remove them. Bottom fan shroud just unclips and remove from underneath. Slide the top fan shroud up and out, being careful not to damage your rad fins. Step 4 - Drain radiator. Get a big bucket and undo the drain at the bottom of the radiator. Usually it's a plastic screw plug. Some vehicles have a radiator drain hose attached to this drain plug, to make the draining less messy. Undo your radiator cap to get the coolant flowing out. Once you are satisfied it's finished, remove bucket out of the way out of the reach of animals and curious kids. Step 5 - For auto trans owners - Grab your drain pan - you are loosening and removing the bottom trans hoses that go to the bottom tank of the radiator. You will loose a small amount of trans fluid, about a small glass worth. Step 6 - Unbolt the two 10mm bolts that secure the radiator to the frame. I suggest for this step to have a big cardboard box, unfolded and on the floor so that when you pull the radiator up and out you have a spot for the radiator to sit because more trans fluid will leak out of the hoses. If you have any ear plugs you can use them to plug the lines and prevent a mess. Step 7 - Finally you can remove the old fan. It's held on with 4 10mm bolts. If you look at your new fan it will give you an idea where the bolts are. They will be on pretty tight but not impossible to remove. Step 8 - Now clean your hands so you don't get grease on your new fan. Install the fan and bolt it in. I installed the bolts finger tight all round then tightened them up with the rachet. They must be on tight but not Schwarzenegger strength. Stand back and admire the new fan. Step 9 - Basically is reverse of everything. Install radiator, reattach bottom trans fluid hoses/rad hoses, install two top radiator bracket support screws and fan shroud. Refill coolant with the old coolant or brand new coolant if you have on hand. Add a bit of trans fluid too, measuring against what you lost. Don't put the old fluid back in, that will have dirt particles. Remember to recheck coolant level the next day.

New fan is now finally in. Discovered it's not possible to just remove the fan shroud to remove, you must get the radiator out to have more access. So what I thought was going to be an hour became 3 hours. Cleaned all the fins out with vacuum, cleaned a good deal of sand and dead insects that had found their way in there so the radiator should do it's job better now. Cleaned fan shroud with soapy water looks like brand new now. Tightened up the trans fluid lines going to the bottom tank, looked like they were seeping a tiny bit.

Heard of it here in Oz but primarily as a motorbike oil. Do you guys know of Penrite oil?

Have you checked inside the evap box to check for leaves, twigs etc? There is a how to section called Prevent Fire Clean Resistor or something like that.

True and I read that you said 'getting power from a fusible link at the battery' so that might be the intermittent issue. Try putting the ignition to ACC then jiggle the fusible link while turning the key to see if it makes any buzzing noise.

Except for European and Australasian models that we call Terranos, we have our steering wheel on the passenger side! Everything else is the same though, trans, tail lights. Air con units are different design though as ours are located on the left side and the air con ducting goes through the firewall on that side.

Maybe it just a fuse! Look at that pic top right hand corner. I see a couple fuses there for ignition switch.

I'll try just bending the needle away from the face but I don't want to accidentally snap it. I managed to get the speedo needle off before. I repaired it by heating it up in a mug of hot water then bending it straight while the needle was nice and flexible, then put it in a splint using a toothpick to hold it straight. Left it to set for a few hours and it straightened it out. I want to do the same with the tacho needle. Just need a day off work!