Terranovation

Helped out a security vehicle, he had run over a bunch of nails, all four tyres flat. Left the car up on bricks, that's all we could find on the side of the road. He watched in amazement that all four tyres fitted perfectly in the back, with room to spare. Took tyres and security guy to tyre shop to fix them which security company paid for. Also helped my wife jump start her car, flat battery because she hardly drives the thing oh and my left rear brake light was out so fixed that. Phew, all in a days job.

Infamous Nissan

This exact same thing happened with mine. I was driving then the dash lights went hell bright, there was a ZAP sound then everything went dead, I had to coast it off the side of the road. The fusible link was fried, due to a dodgy alternator regulator. I had also burned out interior globe fuse and reverse shift lock fuse. New fusible link and alternator = all good.

I accidentally dropped a key down the side of my seat, thought I would be able to get it out but it was well hidden in there. I thought it was trapped in the rail part that slides the chair backwards and forwards so I had no other option but to unbolt the seat. Came out nice and easy. Found the key, it had disappeared under a little flap in the carpet. Sprayed the bolts with some lube, vacuumed the area so it's nice and clean and bolted back the seat.

Upper and lower control arm bushes and rear bushes upper and lower. Wheel alignment after that. That's what it was for me. Mine developed a bad shake through the steering wheel when you hit 50 mph. It was so bad you had to fight the steering wheel and you'd have sore hands.

They are there for you reason, I agree. I believe they are to distribute the wind to create less drag on the front nose, kind of directing the air into the nose, rather than straight against a flat panel.

The stereo resetting itself sounds like a battery terminal connection issue. The same thing was happening to me, then I noticed the clock on the dash was saying 1:00. This happens when a battery lead is loose. I found the negative cable was loose so tightened it, no more problems.

The way I managed to unlock mine was tape down the switch for the rear squirters then quickly ran to the back and used a needle, shoved that in and out a few times to get it flowing. One side had a single grain of sand or something in it but it got out. Must've been in the actual reservoir itself. I once found a cockroach in there, don't ask me how it managed to get in past the actual lid but it got in there.

Start by taking out the headlight combo switch, check the brass fingers inside and clean contacts with a strip of sandpaper.

My other question is do the headlights work, but you've got nothing when you turn the key? No dashlights either but headlights work?

Trouble starting - Ok so if I were standing in front of your truck right now I would be first taking off the negative cable and wire brushing the terminal and battery terminal. Leave the cable off, then do the same with positive terminal. Resecure the positive side first, then the negative. Check voltage with multimeter. Should be 12-12.6. Now put key into ACC, the position just before the start position. Test battery again. Should read 11.8 anything lower than 11 volts is going to be struggling. Your starter needs at least 10 volts bare minimum to kick the engine over. So if this is the case, replace the battery. If you can manage to get the truck started then check the voltage when running. Should be 13.5-14.5. If it's less than 12.5 without any lights or fan on then the alternator is bad or not connected proper. Check wiring, wire brush under bolts so they are making clean contact with bare metal. This also goes fir your ground lead coming from negative terminal. So if that is all good the next thing I'd check is the fuel filter in the fuel rail and replace it. Another thing I did was replace every single blade fuse in the fuse compartment just for peace of mind.

As said above, Auto trans fluid is dyed red and is a lot thinner oil, almost like machining oil than manual trans oil, which is almost the consistency of liquid honey and has a distinct oily odour. That metallic fuzz is probably from everytime it's gone into reverse and shifted into first gear while still rolling backwards slowly. Not saying it's all you, probably from others over the years. Just keep changing the gear oil when it's needed and you'll be all good.

No, never discharge refrigerant even in an enclosed area. The gas will be sitting there and as soon as you open a door, the gas will be sucked out. Also dangerous if anyone is smoking nearby and don't forget about your battery that can give off sparks. Refrigerant is very harmful to Earth's atmosphere and it's illegal to vent it into the air.

If it's overfilled you will experience slipping bands inside the trans as the barrels are rolling through a higher than normal fluid level. Also you'll notice small bubbles on the dipstick. This is known as 'foaming' and from what I have read, bubbles being forced at a high rate against metal parts can do damage.

Get a pack of large black rubbish bin bags, cut the ends off then cut one side off. Unfold it and you have a large sheet. Also easy to just roll up and throw away when you are done.

Interesting that it doesn't leak with minimal sealant. I want to trim off the excess on mine but I think I'll just leave it be, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I had an experience once with a thermostat housing that had gasket goo squished out on the seam and stupid me cut the stuff off around the edge and the damn thing started leaking. That was a learning curve for me.

Finished off putting the new water pump in. I know it took a couple of days but I've been sick and I wanted to do it properly without rushing. I'm really happy to not have anymore leaks.

Usually a hit with a hammer will get the old water pump off just be careful not to damage the sealing surface. Put the bolts in a safe place so you don't lose them. Now here comes the fun part - cleaning the gasket surface mwhoawhowooahh. Nah, it's ok, but yeah, prepare yourself. Scrape as much gunk off as you can with a plastic scraper and don't gouge the surface. I found boiling the kettle then pouring that over it helped to loosen up the brittle stuff. Scrub ut clean with the steel wool until it shines like in the photo, spray it clean with hot water again and dry it well. Get your gasket that came with the new water pump and only put a thin bead of sealant on. Press it onto the surface on the engine. Luckily there's two mounting bolts there so I won't fall off. Then do the same with the new water pump, sealant on the edge all the way around and then place it onto the engine side. Bolt everything back up. You'll see I used only a 2mm wide adhesive and the stuff squishes out a bit. It's ok, at least it doesn't leak anymore! Now more cleaning! Clean your radiator and flush it out, overflow reservoir and clean and degrease your fan and belts. I cleaned my belts and they actually had writing hidden under the crud! I even gave my radiator top a fresh coat of gloss black while it was out. May as well while it's out of there. Anyway, sorry for rambling on, and I hope this helps out anyone else.

7. Remove the fan, there's 4 ten mm bolts to remove. 8. Undo all of your belts that's in the way. Mine had three to come off, power steering, alternator and air conditioning belts in that order. Preferably take a photo of before so then you know how it all goes back on. 9. Finally you can now unbolt the water pump. There's two 14 mm bolts either side and the other 5 are 12 mm bolts (see picture)

Ok finally I have gotten around to doing this job, this is for the TD27 engine but I'm pretty sure it's good info for anyone else interested. I have never changed a water pump before and if you haven't then it's actually not as scary as it seems. Just be prepared for a lot of cleaning. Tools required - Yourself (obviously) New water pump (obviously) 10, 12 and 14 mm sockets Rachet and extension Loctite silicone or RTV gasket goo Big bucket for draining coolant Ear plugs (for plugging hose lines) Phillips head and flat head screwdrivers Steel wool (the kind that is infused with soap stuff) Plastic scraper 1. Obviously, buy your water pump, making sure it matches up with your old one. There would be nothing worse than getting everything apart only to discover the thing doesn't fit! I bought one that was for Nissan Navara 92-97, TD27. 143mm between fan blade bolts. I measured between the fan blade volts on mine and it was exactly 143mm. Plus the advertisement of TD27 was good. 2. Start by taking off the stone guard underneath and slide it out of the way. 3. It may be a good idea to get an old towel or big cardboard box you can unfold and protect your garage floor and slide that underneath now. Get your bucket or oil drain pan, drain the coolant. Open the radiator cap to get it flowing. Keep pets and children away from the coolant. 4. While that is draining, unscrew the radiator shroud, 4 screws on it, two on the top edges, two on the lower edges. It might not even have screws, it might have cable ties. Undo whatever is there. The bottom shroud unclips from the top half by pushing in the retainer clips then slide the bottom piece out from under the engine. You'll remove the top shroud after the next step. 5. Undo the three 10mm screw bolts holding the overflow reservoir in place. There's two either side of it and one right down the bottom there. Using two extensions joined together makes getting that bolt easy to remove. Undo top radiator hose complete from radiator joining to thermostat housing. Now you can slide radiator shroud out, be gentle not to damage the fins on the radiator. 6. With the radiator drained, slide underneath and remove the trans hoses going to the bottom of the rad tank. Here's where using the ear plugs comes in handy to plug the lines! Unbolt the radiator from the two top screws and lift up to remove, again, be careful. You probably get a bit of coolant leak so have a towel ready.

Started on the water pump job, took about an hour and a half to get fan shroud, radiator out and drained and engine fan and the belts off. Undid the bolts holding the water pump and that thing is not budging! Grabs hammer, bashed on the edges of the old fan pulley until it worked loose. Lucky I had my bucket underneath because old coolant poured out of the engine block. I guess that's a good thing to see that must mean it's not blocked up inside. Took the radiator hoses off and scrubbed them out. It was great to see old brown crud coming out, due to me just using plain water. Tomorrow I'll clean up the front of the engine (it's an absolute mess from coolant spraying everything) then clean the water pump surface and put the new one on.

If the headlights are staying on when you have flicked the switch to the off position, then one of those brass fingers must be still making contact with the magnet inside the switch. This happened to me because I bent the fingers too much when I did the contact clean out. Did you watch the brass fingers move as you moved the switch to on and off? Could be a long shot, but it could be a faulty headlight bulb too.

I think the idea was the smaller the gap, the air is compressed into a fine stream of air for better cooling of the top radiator tank. Think of a garden spray nozzle, the finer the spray, the water droplets are either a blast of water or a fine mist.

You know those three plastic things on the front of the bonnet, I'm not really sure what they do as they aren't really offering much ventilation for the radiator, but anyway, this is how you can remove them if you are interested, for painting or whatever. Open the hood and look on the inside where you will see where the other side of the plastic is. There is three nubs of plastic on this side with little fin structures. Use a flat head screwdriver or a fork to push these in and you'll feel it pop out, then remove. Very handy to remove them for painting instead of trying to do it while they are still on the hood. I even thought about cutting a larger slit down the middle of each one to get more air through them. Another idea I had was installing led strips into each of them but was unsure how to hide the wiring because when you open and close the hood the wiring might catch on stuff.

That's good to know, I don't use the 4wd gears that much anyway. I will drain whatever is in there, degrease it then put some sealant on the seam then refill it. Luckily I have one of those bottles with a plastic tube as part of the lid. You pull the top up and the tube unravels from inside the bottle. I will probably get one of those hand pumps though for the bigger gallon containers.