Terranovation

Kids and exhaust pipes, they are fascinated by them. I remember getting in trouble from my dad when I was little, I got the hose stuck it up and watered his exhaust pipe for him lol

I don't think it is possible unless you cut the whole front end of the engine bay off. The trans fits into that tunnel underneath, how is that gonna slide forward with enough room to clear the tunnel with the engine in front of it? Even if you tried to angle the engine upward, I highly doubt you'd get enough clearance to slide the trans out of the tunnel.

There is a video walkthrough by trulymeparker on youtube titled Led dashboard upgrade Terrano. Although the end result of illumination wasn't good in the video, at least you can see how it comes apart. After doing some research, I found the square dash design for the Terrano is actually the same as a D21, or early Frontier model. It's not the same as the curved dash design that has oval gauges. The number of globes you'll need are 6 x T10 which is four for the actual gauges, two for the indicators. T5 globes fit the smaller warning lights like the clock and there was one at the '0' mark on the tacho. I think I used a total of 17 T5s. I had to bend the pins inwards on the bulb holders to make the bulbs fit because they kept wanting to slide out. Pretty easy to bend the pins in with a small knife edge and being careful.

Yeah I get the same problem, the issue is the plastic sheet that is supposed to be glued down around the edges of the door has come off. Get some black contact and stick it over the inside of the door vent so then if you want to remove it you can peel it off.

Been experiencing some weird smells coming through the vents so did a clean out of the blower, found a pine twig and a crumpled leaf in it. Cleaned all the fins on squirrel cage with hand soap and an old toothbrush. Vacuumed the evap box through the resistor hole. There was a hair inside, don't know how that got in there, poked around with the end of a cable tie to loosen it because the vacuum wasn't getting it but eventually managed to get it out. Sprayed some air freshener in the evap box and also in the hole where the blower fits. Bolted everything back up now I have fresh smelling air again.

The rear defog seems to be a separate issue, I doubt that the two are linked. Did you check the metal tab on the side of the rear window is intact and connected? Sometimes they can get snapped off when carting large items. As for the blower, maybe water got in there and damaged it. Best to unbolt it and check. Three 8mm screws hold it in. Unplug the connector first then unscrew. There's a small hose on the side that will come off the plastic pipe to the evap box. There's two plastic pins holding the hinges at the lower edges of the glove box. You'll feel a small lever on each one. Push them outwards (to the outer edges of the glove box) sometimes they can be a pain to remove just push them with a pen until they pop. With the glove box removed you'll have a lot more room in there to work. Remove a steel plate behind the glove box (it looks like a curved metal plate like from a WWII ammo box) then you can unscrew the two screws to the resistor on the front of the evap box. Check in the hole for leaves, twigs etc. Vacuum it out. With the blower fan, you can clean the squirrel cage thing by unscrewing it from the blower housing, wash the squirrel cage with warm water, hand siao and scrub the fins on it with an old toothbrush. Dry it all well and screw it back onto the blower housing. Check the connector with a multimeter with the ignition ON. There should be at least 12 volts otherwise it's definitely a blown fuse. It's a 20 amp yellow fuse IIR.

Looks like Stuart Little has had a go at that. I'd also check for a nest in the evap box. Pretty easy check to get in there.

Dexron III (Castrol) is a generic brand that doesn't specify which vehicle it's designed for. Although it works, I feel the trans doesn't shift as nicely as Castrol Multivehicle because Multivehicle is specifically designed for 'Asian Vehicles' and because Terrano is Japanese built and the trans is Jatco it's built in Japan too. Multivehicle fluid is a darker red too while the generic brand is more a strawberry color so I believe the darker red has a better viscosity based on it's color being 'thicker'. As for the air temp question, both generic Dexron III and multivehicle both heat up at about the same temperatures, the trans should take 4-5 mins from a cold start, to warm up to 82 Celsius (179 F) about the same temp as the thermostat opens to allow coolant flow, at that stage, overdrive lock up can then occur. During the warm up stage, only 3rd gear is available which is a pain sometimes but it does this to warm up the trans faster. In summer temps, this warm up takes less time. I would say anything over 75 F it's a lot quicker than say if the outside temp was 60 F.

Cuong, the shop that originally did the motor mounts they should have some kind of warranty for that work they did. It is a safety issue that needs to be addressed and I would be telling them this that it is a safety issue. Do they have a proper design safety standard in place for this work they did? I would be taking photos and showing them it's not right, it's a safety issue and needs rectifying.

You remove the light by first removing the two screws then reaching under, pull it towards you. Just watch out for spiders behind that area it's a nice hidey spot. The lens has a couple of slots where you can put a flat screwdriver in and turn, then it comes apart. As for the wiring at the back of the housing, just undo the wiring if PO hasn't already crimp connected it. I had to cut my wiring and installed male/female connectors.

Has anyone had any experience recoloring carpets with the spray can stuff? I want to redo my original floor mats to breathe new life into em. I don't want to buy new ones because they don't have anything oem, unless you want floor mats with some cheesy one liner written on it which looks ridiculous. I would like to read your opinion on the results you had by respraying carpets with dye spray, maybe even pics too would be great.

This from my post earlier, showing the leds I installed. The red thing is a digital voltmeter. Also went for a nice drive to a lookout point.

If the headlights work but your dash lights aren't then it's definitely the fusible link and one of those wires is burnt. Check battery terminals are clean and tight and check distilled water level in battery. Clean all ground wires are clean and making metal to metal contact. There's 3 to check, one on the inner fender between the battery and engine, one on the side of the engine and one at the rear of engine IIR. Check volts at battery, you should have 12.4-12.6 with everything off at rest. Check with the engine running after you push start it. If it's anything below 13 volts then your alternator is on the way out and will need a rebuild or buy a new one. I'd rather just get new because a rebuild will cost about the same. Could also be starter. Another test you can try is a voltage drop test. Touch multimeter red wire to positive on battery and black wire from multimeter to the alternator case making metal to metal contact. The voltage should be the same as if you were testing at the battery.

Nice work Cuong. I usually degrease then let it creep for a few hours or overnight then hit it again with degreaser then pressure clean.

Next to the 4wd symbol might be a light saying A.T.P. The ATP light comes on when the transfer case is in Neutral and the transmission is in Park. It's there to alert the driver that putting the transmission in Park will not prevent the vehicle from rolling since the axles are disconnected from the transmission's park pawl. If the transfer case is not actually in Neutral, then it's just a sensor glitch. This light indicates that the automatic transmission parking function is not engaged. If the transfer control lever is not secured in any drive position while the automatic transmission selector lever is in the P (Park) position, the transmission will disengage and the vehicle may move unexpectedly. Shift the transfer control lever into the 2H, 4H, or 4L position when the warning light comes on

Vacuumed the whole interior after driving along then a mini sand storm blew up. Unfortunately I had my window down and sand was everywhere! Sand on the seats, in the vents, on the carpet, sand on the dash. Took me about an hour cleaning it all then had a shower and was picking sand out of places I won't mention.

If it's water in the tank adding methylated spirits will absorb any water in there.

Got around to installing my small t5 led globes in the dash to match the existing leds. It was a mission having to turn the key after installing each bulb to make sure it worked and if not, pulling the bulb holder, turning it around and reinstalling. Found that a majority of the bulb holders I had to bend in the tiny metal arms on the bulb holder so the leds would slot in without falling out. Installed a total of 17 globes for the P,R,N,D,2,1 tree, the glow plug light, high beam, park brake indicator, battery, oil pressure, O/D light, clock illumination, trans temp overheat indicator, one in the dash at the 0 mark on the tach and rear defog indicator. Interestingly I found there was no globe in the high beam spot and now all red coloured lenses are pinkish, the green lenses are now a light blue, orange lenses are now yellow and the clock is blue. It's different to what I expected but I like the changes. Will post pic.

I'm sticking with my Terrano for as long as possible, it's age is making it look kinda funky! Plus other drivers look at it like "what is that?" because you are lucky if you see one like mine once a week that's how rare they are getting, not even hardly any parts in junk yards. I think in a few more years time the price is going to go up on these old iron trucks.

I've used normal Castrol Dexron III and I find it doesn't shift as nice but still it works as it should. Castrol Multivehicle is what I use and it's a bit more expensive but it's the best. I had my trans rebuilt nearly 200k ago and it's still going strong.

No worries also be careful with the bending back of the speedo needle that's why I said heat it then bend, apply more heat then bend. Do gradually and you won't snap it.

If you need help getting the speedometer needle straightened I managed to fix it, here's how - Remove the cluster first obviously. Lower the steering column. It's impossible to remove the cluster without lowering the steering wheel. Next, remove the 6 screws holding the steering column cover together and remove the top. Next, remove the 4 screws holding the plastic trim around the edges of the cluster. Then grab the edges both sides and pull firmly towards yourself. The bottom part of the trim is secured by metal clips which will pop out. If a metal clip falls out you will be able to easily put it back in place. Next, unclip the wiring harness to your rear window defog and any others that are behind that plastic trim. The cluster itself is held in by 4 screws, 2 at the top and 2 on the bottom. Pull the cluster forward carefully and unplug the connections behind it. The connectors have easy to remove squeeze and remove connectors. Taking the cluster inside to a clean area, take a small screwdriver and unscrew the small screw on the clock adjusting knob. Be careful you don't lose the tiny screw and knob. Now you can separate the two halves of the cluster. Do not attempt to remove the plastic screen, it will break or snap easily. You'll be looking for the plastic tabs on thr outer edge holding the shell together. Squeeze them down and push inwards. It's a little tricky but once you get a couple pushed in just keep going until you feel the shell pushing apart until it's finally separated. Now you can remove the speedometer needle. Clean hands. Wind the needle up till you feel it make a click. It's a bit hard to explain but you should feel a spot where it kinds stops, then just pull it up and off. Heat up the kettle and get a coffee mug. You want the water to be hot, but not boiling hot because it will melt the plastic needle more. You just want it very hot. Dunk the needle into the hot water for about 15 seconds then bend it back carefully with your finger. It should be quite pliable. Dunk it again and bend again. Then get a couple of flat heavy surfaces and stick the needle between them and leave overnight if you can. Big heavy book worls with a weight on the top, like some bricks or an old car battery sitting on top of the book would be good. This will ensure the needle gets straightened as possible. While the cluster is out would also be a good opportunity to change all of the cluster bulbs to leds for an easier to read dash.

I know this might sound ridiculous but I read that atf can clean injectors. I was curious. I took a small bottle of atf to the petrol station, added only a small amount about 100ml to a full tank and I found after a couple of atf treatments I have increased my mileage by 50 kms (31.25 miles) so I am certain that atf works to clean the fuel system. After both refills these tests were done without running the air con to get a consistent result and was a combination of traffic/freeway conditions.

Sounds like it's flooded, just wait a while, keep turning the key with accelerator down to the floor or try again in the morning till the fumes dissipate. Technically you should hold the throttle open by hand rev it up to about 2,000 rpm then spray carby cleaner in the intake.

No worries curtcwc, let us know the results. We don't have this Seafoam stuff in Australia. I've seen vids on youtube about it. I'd love to see the results on a diesel like mine.