Terranovation

Canadian!

Got my Ebay LED 20 in bar yesterday and today got the guys at a marine factory to make up a bar mount. It was a serious piece of equipment, a solid 10mm thick aluminium bar a bit over a couple a feet long. Offered to throw in a six pk of beer but they said no, so got it for free! Can't wait to get home and see if it all fits.

Lol yeh

Just thought I'd do a how to on this, as I learnt the hard way today and turned a simple job into a nightmare, until I figured out it was very easy. Step 1 - Have new headlight globes handy (obviously) Step 2- Open hood and locate headlight bulb socket Step 3- Press in the two tangs on the sides of the bulb holder and pull back away from the headlight housing. The socket will separate from the globe connector, along with the round rubber dust boot. Step 4 - To remove the globe, press down on the metal tang that holds the globe in. You'll press down and unhook it. Lever it away to remove globe. Step 5 - Insert the new globe being careful not to touch the glass surface. Hold it by the end on the metal part. Insert into headlight housing. The metal lugs should line up with indents on the actual socket. Step 6 - Replace the metal tang by hooking it back into it's slot. You just push down on it and it will seat in, holding the headlight globe in place. Step 7 - Replace the rubber dust boot. It should be marked 'TOP' showing the reinstallation on the headlight socket. There will be cut out sections on the back of the dust boot for the globe connectors to poke through. This can be a little tricky. I learnt that you should keep a finger in the center of the dust boot as you place it onto the back of the headlight globe, that way you can feel when the connector pins line up. Step 8 - With the dust boot on, plug in the headlight connection. This can also be a bit tricky without adequate lighting but if you look at the slot configuration of the connector then you have an idea of how it should fit onto the headlight connector pins. Step 9 - Test it out! Test high beam too. If all went well, you're all good. Now do the other side lol.

I don't know if you guys have these in the states, but the good old Club Lock usually is a good visual deterrent. It's a lock that goes on the steering wheel, preventing a thief to turn the steering wheel. I know thieves can overcome Club Locks but it's gonna at least slow them down a good amount of time. If a thief sees a Club Lock they would probably just move onto an easier target.

When I wired my stereo I found the PO had cut the original wiring plug and wire locked each.individual.damn.wire. Also they used a heap of electric tape so everything was sticky. So it was a matter of unscrew each wire, connect to the new stereo wire. Was a pita but in 15 mins I had my tunes back. I threw out a heap of old electrical tape. I hate the stuff lol.

Finally took off my old spotties, they hit the ground with rust particles exploding everywhere. New 20 in led bar should be arriving next couple of days. Vacuumed the front of the air con fins and the crud on the front of the trans cooler is now bug free. Installed new headlight globe too so now both are matching and reinstalled freshly painted grille. Looks like a whole new front end now.

Took the front grille off to clean up and repaint. I put it in the shower to clean (which my wife wasn't impressed with lol) going to hang it up on the washing line to paint tomorrow with nice dark grey spray paint. It's actually dark grey fencing paint (Dy Mark ColorBond Monument satin finish) but it was the closest color match I could find and plus I had already done the front park lamps in the same color.

I have Narva 120 plus headlights in mine that give 30% extra light distance plus changed my front park lamp globes to SMD Leds. So much brighter than standard filament globes. Interior light is a festoon Led still need to change the rear cargo light to Led just need to find the right size. Still waiting for my 20 inch Cree led light bar to arrive. Scored off Ebay on auction for $56. Then I can ditch my 10 years + old spotties. Seriously they are that old they are rusting away and hanging by the chrome surrounds.

For mine being an auto, I guess a cheap method would be to remove the fuse for the shift lock, parking the vehicle with the nose towards a garage wall or any brick wall. With the shift lock fuse removed, sure they would be able to start it but it would be impossible for them to go into reverse unless they knew how to bypass it.

This happened recently to a mate of mine, he got a wheel stud nut stuck inside the wheel brace and couldn't get it out because it was wedged in there. So how to remove it? Spin the wheel brace with the wedged nut back onto the wheel's thread a few turns, then pull the wheel brace hard backwards or tap with a hammer. The nut should come out of the wheel brace then you just unscrew it from the wheel stud by hand.

My transmission lines still had the old style u-shaped clamps, the ones that have a phillips head style bolt. They kept leaking and I was getting sick of cleaning red fluid off the hoses. Took the old clamps off and replaced with new worm drive clamps. Kept the old style u-clamps as a memento for the tool box

Banned for not at least having a boulder in profile pic. Or a creek.

Eye carumba that's a nice nest of junk you have in there. I bet you are feeling the air coming out of the vents now!

My idler arm actually has a zerk fitting which I was unaware of.

Best method, remove the distributor cap and take the rotor out. No one will be able to start it. An old trick my dad taught me back in the day.

After having a couple of fuses blow I decided to make an emergency pack of 10a, 15a and 20a fuses. I just grabbed four of each, wrapped them in sticky tape and put them in the glove box.

Also would be handy to know when was the last time it was serviced and had oil change, plugs and air filter changed. Dirty fuel filter could also be a culprit.

In my neck of the woods, Pathfinders in the 90's age are quite rare. I believe there would be people keen enough to try and steal mine or at least steal parts off it. I had a rear wiper get stolen once and mag wheel centre caps. Twice they have tried in the past. My passenger side door lock is buggered from someone trying to use a screwdriver. Another time (at bandcamp lol) my rear quarter glass got smashed but luckily they were only after cash and not auto theft. That was $120 for a new window.

Check fuses in the dash panel I believe it's a 10a fuse. My front park lamps went out and this also wad affecting the brake lamps. Discovered it was a 10a on the bottom row. 4th one across from the right labelled STOP LAMP.

Mine's an auto and it's great as long as you drain and flush at least once per year. I change out my atf fluid every 10,000 kms just to stay on the safe side and keep everything clean in there. Also have a transmission cooler especially if you do a lot of stop/start driving as heat is the no.1 enemy of these auto boxes. I learnt my lesson about transmission neglect. When I first got mine I knew nothing about changing or checking trans fluid. So I drove it for 3 years without any flushes or knowledge of when it was last changed.. Well all of a sudden I lost 4th and 3rd on the freeway, limped it at 30 km/h to the nearest trans shop for diagnosis. The guy said he opened it up and it resembled a fight between Megatron and a Terminator. Cost $2,500 to rebuild and he schooled me on how easy it is to maintain. That was 6 years ago and haven't had any problems since.

Congrats on fixing it. I'd say the reason the fuse melted so badly was the hot 12v wire was grounding out against bare metal, as in the same way you can get sparks if you accidentally bridge the posts on your battery. A few touches of that bare wire would have been like zap zap zap, sharp increases in voltage and finally the wire would have been resting against the bare metal so the fuse would have been trying to handle that pure 14.3-14.5 volts provided by a running alternator supplying the battery, until it melted the fuse. I've never seen a fuse actually melt before, usually I hear a zap or a ping then I find a fuse with a busted gap.

Banned for having black crud on number plate

Did you at least get to keep the MY1PATH plate or did they make you hand it over? I have 1AUC on my number plate. Like flnl said, we get given whatever number is up next, I'm a bit disappointed I didn't get 1AUS as in Australia lol.

Start by removing the negative cable off the battery. The alternator has a couple of 14mm bolts holding it to the mounting base. Take photos showing where the wiring attached to the back of the alternator so you can use as reinstallation reference. Disconnect the wiring first, then undo the mounting bolts, then the top belt tension bolt. This will avoid the possibility of leaving your alternator hanging by it's wires.