Terranovation

Check battery terminal connections- are they good and tight? You might want to also try testing the voltage. It's gotta have at the minimum 11 volts to start the engine. At rest, batteries should have a voltage from 12 - 12.7 volts. Secondly, check the wires going to the back of the alternator. Is it secured and tight? Try pulling at the wire to see if it's loose. Third, check the fuses under the dash next to the driver's seat. Nothing blown there? Ok good. Try taking off the battery terminals and clean everything with a wire brush until it's shined up with no corrosion. Take the negative cable off first, then the positive cable to ensure no sparks. Reinstall positive, then negative. Tighten clamps. To me it sounds like the battery might be on it's way out. You said it would start after a couple of tries. That is symptomatic of a failing battery. If it's manual have you tried push starting?

Sounds like who ever tried fixing the electricals didn't really know what the f they were doing. Sounds like a nightmare. If I can give some advice, if you have a burnt out fusible link, you shouldn't have ANY power to the electrics at all. The fusible link is there in case of a massive power spike and it's purpose is to burn out to cut all power to the battery, eliminating the chance of a fire. So if you have constant dash lights even with the key removed, I'm thinking it's a switch that has been left on, there's a switch on the centre console (not all of em have it but mine does anyway) that is for park lamps. This turns on rear brakes, front corner lamps and dash lights. I'm thinking that switch or wires are on and could simply just need switching off. Either that or you do have a bad relay, whether it's original equipment or something someone stuck in there because they didn't know what they were doing remains to be seen.

I give you - the ignition lock concealer. Needs some paint so it matches the interior but you get the idea.

I sometimes wish Nissan made the engine bay a little more 'user friendly' like how about having clips on the sides of the top fan shroud so you can just unclip the top. Or how about a quick release clamp for various things under the hood.

That does sound fishy, mine had 114,000km on it when I got it in 2005. Unless yours was stored away in a barn for ten years without being driven. I suspect tom foolery.

The one with a headlight on it is probably for park lamps. It should switch on your dash lights, rear brake lamps and running lights on both front corners. The one with a red light is probably for the electrical shocks, which may or may not work now. On mine I have four switches in that area, one for led lamp, one for electric shockies (not working) park lamps and one for headlight spray wash. (Terranos came with sprayers mounted in front of the headlights)

Yeah they are a lot better for my ears and no more vibration. You can't really see it but there's foam cushions down the sides of the speaker boxes against the frame and I even put foam under the metal brackets then screwed them in.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/2621-manual-transmission-tsb/Read this - I wasn't far off. Looks like you'll need another quart.

I just had this great idea to fab up a piece of plastic that fits over the ignition space. Just cut the tear drop shape out of an icecream container using the existing plastic ignition ring as a template and glue plastic tabs underneath it to form a way to slot it in. Spray it to match the console color and when you park just remove the ignition plastic ring and then slot the ignition plastic cover over the top, the plastic tabs slot down the sides of the ignition lock, effectively hiding the lock. Should confuse a thief or at least slow them down somewhat. I'm going to try this!

I've slept in mine a few times, mine has the rear seats that fold forward allowing the rear seats to fold forward flat. I've used it for the drive in theatre too, quite nice on a summer night with the rear tail gate up, some pillows come in handy too. My wife did make a foam base with a fitted bed sheet for the back that fitted perfectly. After the movie we would roll it up and put some zip ties around it so it was ready for next time. I don't know what ended up happening to it though..seemed to go missing when we moved house a couple of years ago.

Is it possible to just drill into the bushing and put zerk fittings? I was thinking about just drilling into the top one from underneath.

When you see another one in a shopping carpark and you look through the window to see how many miles/kms it's done compared to your own odometer.

You can see where it is secured to existing bolts in the frame Handy ledge to put some drinks

Merry Christmas to you too, I am not all that familiar with the manual as mine is an auto, but I remember the procedure is something like the following - 1. Locate inspection/fill nut on side of manual box underneath. Remove to allow manual trans to 'breathe' to get the fluid out and also in case you can't fill through the gear lever hole! 2. Locate the drain nut directly underneath the manual transmission. Grab a drain pan, loosen nut and drain old oil out. 3. Start removing center console plastic. I believe there's two screws at the front, two underneath a plastic flap that you have to pry up with a butter knife and two inside the console lid under a little piece of carpet/felt. 4. Unscrew the gear knob, maybe really tight to undo. If all fails, wrap it in an old t shirt to protect the surface and use clamp pliers to get it off. 5. Lift up the gear boot, there should be a metal circlip or a zip tie holding it on. Remove with needle nose pliers or cut what it holding it. Installation, just use a new zip tie. 6. Pull gear boot off, now you should see a C clip, remove with needle nose pliers. Ensure gear lever is in neutral. Remove gear lever. 7. Fill the trans. I heard it's a slow process because the oil has to filter down through all the gear syncros. Might take a couple of hours to get it done.

I'll have to show a photo of my rear speaker install. I got sick and tired of the plastic rear speakers surrounds. The metal grating on the speaker covers were kinda rusty and one wasn't clipping into the plastic at all and kept vibrating, any of the tiniest bumps in the road you'd get 'dldldldldlddl'. So I ripped them out and replaced the speakers with some Sony home stereo jobs. I got some metal brackets and bent some angles into them. Screwed into the sides of the speaker boxes, then used the existing holes and bolts in the actual rear frame to mount them. They sit perfectly over the rear wheel hubs. Covered them in a material similar to the original fabric and gives added protection against any scrapes. There's actually more room either side in the back now and there's even a good little drink can stand on the side.

That actually looks really useful, it doesen't take up too much space so you can still climb in there and sleep if you wanted too, plus loads of storage space underneath. I think you should try to find that buck skin material to cover it though, keep it looking like it's a factory install.

Does it go down when you are just sitting still or when driving? You tightened the brass screws on the back of the gauge cluster? Mine always changes a little especially when going around a corner because the fuel sloshes around in the tank obviously. Also when accelerating, it goes down a little as the fuel moves to the rear of the tank, then when returning to cruising speed, it goes back up to normal. I think it's normal for Pathys to do this. It's just the sensor in the tank.

You can see my lower fender is a bit rusted, I think that happened because of the mud that was in there. Really must get that coated and fixed before it starts spreading.

Just thought I'd share this for anyone who is new to owning a Pathfinder, it is a good idea to check the bottom channel at the lower inside edge of your front fenders from time to time. It's an easy check to do, just open your front doors and you'll see the gap in there to flush out with a garden hose. Mine were totally full of mud and gravel when I first got mine. Good thing to check especially after off roading in mud.

https://en.gravatar.com/userimage/63003572/f2893608af6723995c63b4ab3e3bb4f6.jpg?size=200 I hope that worked

Get a diaper and a chocolate bar. Smoosh the chocolate bar into the diaper and leave it on the driver seat. WIN

If I think mine will get stolen I just ride my kangaroo to work. That's why if you come to Australia you'll hardly ever see a kangaroo. We keep them in our garages.

i haven't done the trans temp upgrade myself but I wouldn't play with the original sensor wiring, given the age of these beasts. You don't want to suddenly be without overdrive or something like that. Just use the brass T fitting into the cooler line and make sure you cover the wiring with heat resistant tubing then zip tie it away from any fan belts. While on the subject of gauges a simple volt meter gauge can be hooked up to the back of the cig socket, there's a ground and a positive connection there. As a bonus, the cig socket only goes on with ignition, thus the gauge will work in the same manner,