Terranovation

Discovered a good method for removing side mirror glass out of it's plastic housing - feeler gauge tool or spark plug gap measuring tool. It's a good sliver of metal to wedge in and run it around the edge of the glass to pop it out. My mirror had an annoying rattle and would you believe there was a coin behind it. Only 5 cents though. Beats me how it got in there. I think the PO had a rattle from there and tried gluing a coin in it but when the coin got loose it became a new rattle lol.

If the water pump is leaking then yeah replace it. I thought most water pumps came with the fan clutch ad part of the whole assembly or maybe you can buy them separate?

To the best of my knowledge this could be a simple MAF fix. On your air filter housing should be a black box held on with two screws. Undo this gently because the screws have a tendency to break from what I've read. Inside this box you'll find delicate wires. This is all to do with your MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) Clean these wires with carby spray or electronic spray. Do not bend or touch the wires or otherwise break them! Reassemble the box back into it's housing and you should be golden.

On my TD27 it's not bad, it's on the right side of the engine block and yes you need to put newspaper underneath it to catch the drips. I just put a big drip tray on the garage floor to catch anything. Unscrews and then comes the tricky part, you have to turn it on an angle and then lift it out on an angle through a gap that the filter will just get through. The first time I tried to change the filter I looked at it thinking this is impossible but after fiddling for a while I worked it out. I'm lucky that I'm tall so I can get access to it. Anyone shorter than 6 ft would need to stand on a box to get to it.

Best method is take photos of everything before you start so then you know how it should look when you start putting everything back in. That's how I did my alternator and I never even replaced one before. It was amazingly easy, it's all bolt on. It pays to take off stuff around the alternator so you have more room to work with though.

It's 12.65 volts with the engine running so the alternator is most likely the problem. It's getting worse, harder to start each time. I already have a spare one I need to get fixed up.

Been experiencing flickering dash lights, it sort of cones and goes. Cleaned the battery terminals, charged battery overnight till it was up to 13.8 volts, topped up the water in it too. Reconnect everything and it's still got flickering dash lights. It's weird because with everything off, the battery is still showing 12.65 volts. I'm starting to think it's the alternator not charging the battery properly. Lucky I have a spare one so Il get that recon soon.

Another thing you can try is take the resistor out of the hole it fits into, then turn the fan on full blast. Prepare for a shower of leaves and other stuff that comes out of there. All I can say is, have a vacuum handy to suck the stuff as it comes flying out.

You'll find that there is a foam seal that joins the two halves together. You'll have to ask yourself is this really worth the trouble and if so and you don't mind tearing the seal, then go ahead and rip it apart. You can always clean off the foam particles afterwards and just reseal it with some black silicone. I haven't torn mine apart, I just check inside the resistor hole space and vacuum anything out.

Are you talking about the actual rubber blade or the metal wiper arm assembly? I just buy the rubber blade part and cut it with scissors to fit the size.

Well done on fixing that potential fire hazard. Now you know...you can spray some deodorant in there too so you get a nice smell coming out of the vents. Remember to check it once a year to clean out anything else that gets in there!

Nope.

It's amazing how much rust will come off even metal that appears clean. I threw all my tools into a bath of CLR and the next day the solution was full of brown rust.

Fixed it a while back with super glue, I let it run down where the bar goes into the sun visor, now they are up good and tight. Fitted a grease fitting to my rear tyre carrier but found the carrier won't close with the grease fitting so close to the angle, so I had to grease the fitting, unscrew it then close the carrier. Interesting job though painful.

Currently on 180,000 miles (288,000 kms) still running beautiful.

I think what you are describing sounds like a normal thing for Pathfinders. Mine is exactly the same, if it's slightly below half way and I start up again the needle will be between empty and half way, the trick is find a downward hill and then it goes back to normal level. I've also been told by having the vehicle facing down hill will give you the 'true' fuel level. Sounds crazy but I believe that it is true. After filling up, the needle will go way past the F mark and when totally almost completely empty it will be just a hair past the last line on E.

Also known to not kick into overdrive until the internal trans fluid had reached 80 Celsius, so I don't know if this might be the case but check that it's fully warmed up. It might not be getting warm enough. Mine will only stay in 3rd until it's warmed up fully after 5 mins.

Sounds like they know nothing about Pathfinders. Good call on checking it out yourself. I once stupidly took mine to just get an oil change when I discovered the oil filter was not even touched, probably because the guy didn't know how to get it out. Never again, I do all my servicing myself so I know it's done properly and if something goes wrong I can only blame myself.

Update - Super glue works! Just get some super glue, you want to feed it into the tiny gap around where the plastic swivel joint goes into the sun visor then hold the sun visor up with your hand and just hold it there for a minute until it sets, or even a wooden pole pressing against it with the other end to the driver seat to hold it up overnight might be better. Wallah, no more droopy visor. Cost like $2 for the super glue and I am very happy again.

Sounds like the cat might have had it's day. I used to be an exhaust fitter and we would oxy cut them open to see what damage was inside. Inside a cat is a honeycomb material like in a bee hive and carbon from exhaust fumes can plug up the holes with build up but it takes at least 100,000 kms before it would need changing, unless the fuel going into the tank had a lot of crud in it which ends up going through the exhaust, blocking the exhaust flow and creating poor performance.

No haven't tried that one and I want to try and keep it as OEM as possible. Il try the glue trick first and if all else fails Il try binder clips. Still have them hanging up. Squeezing is helping get the water out.

I took mine off again, I can still feel they are soaked with water trapped inside so they are now heavier, which is another reason why they won't stay up. So I unscrewed them again and gave them a good squeezing over the bath and quite a bit of dirty brown water came out. Allowed to hang up and dry in a warm room over night. I'm going to get some super glue and allow that to run down into where the black piece goes into the sun visor. This should stiffen the connection up between the rod and visor material so they have more grip to stay up. I've considered a strip of Velcro but with the hot sun in summer the glue will just come off from the headliner.

"Shifts fine if you move it between 1,2 and D." In other words, from P to R is toast. "Hard shifting" is another polite term for "it's toast" I'd steer clear of this. The seller is just being honest.

Took sun visors off to scrub clean, wow they were so dirty. Ten years of grime that came off, they actually look brand new now. Problem is, now I cleaned them they won't stay upwards and keep drooping. Any fixes? I've seen a video of someone using velcro but that looks nasty.

I took mine off to give a good cleaning they actually changed colour they were all yellow now they won't stay in the up right position please help.