Terranovation

It's because...we are watching you.

Ok now please check the voltage with a multimeter what is the voltage with the engine running?

Can you not just wind the odometer to match your old one?

One thing I did (sounds dodge but it worked) is I had to take out my cluster, remove the front clear plastic and the speedo needle then screwed the cluster back in, with the needle off. Using my gps speed and a quiet stretch of road I put the needle back on at 55 mph. It was a bit tricky watching the gps speed but I moved the gps closer to the speedo gauge to avoid errors. After the needle was back on I tested it at different speeds. It's like 1 mph +/- but that's fine. Then I had to take cluster back out, put clear window back on and screw cluster back in.

Got tired of my air con drain leaking water all over my frame and exhaust so I got a foot and a half of 12mm shrink wrap tube, heated up the kettle and put boiling water in a cup a half inch deep. Put the tube end in, so the end would shrink down. It was just the right diameter to fit into the air con drain tube and ran the tube down through a gap away from the exhaust and body. Nice little mod.

Had an issue with flickering dash lights, would go away with revving and come back to flickering at idle. Tightened the negative cable and all sorted.

Mine actually did the same thing last week. Turned the key and all the warning lights were dim, turned key off then restarted. I noticed the clock went back to 1:00 and my stereo went to it's funky demo mode, which happens when the battery cable gets removed. I tightened the negative cable and it's been good since then.

If the trans switch lights up orange for a couple of seconds that's normal. If it flashes green on and off that can be fixed by simply switching ignition off then restart again and you're good to go. When the trans switch flashes that means the trans computer has detected an electrical fault somewhere and will therefore operate in limp mode. Can be rectified by following the above.

To remove the stop lamp I believe there should be three plastic caps, under those there are screws you can remove, then the lamp has to slide left or right to remove out.

Clutch pedal height from top of pad to the floor should be 227 - 237mm. It states "Adjust pedal free play with master cylinder push rod. Then tighten lock nut. That push rod adjuster is right up top of the clutch pedal with the lock nut on the back.

Another thing to add is your fusible link is near the positive terminal on your battery there should be a couple of white color wires there. Look for something that is fried. I had an electrician look at mine and he pulled on a wire and it snapped like a piece of lead. That's the sign of a fried wire, the filaments in the wire cook and bond together like a piece of melted lead. Fusible link wire can be bought at any electronics store or hardware store.

Fusible link is dead, needs to be replaced. Same thing happened with mine. Everything was dead except headlights. Also check battery connections and alternator. Can also be a short in the ignition relay.

L O L

That's cool, I'd like to see how you go with the boost gauge, I have the same engine with intercooler too.

Clear tail lights with coloured led bulbs! That helps!

If it's gone down one of those vents you'll have to take your centre vents out. Undo the four screws holding the centre console on. Underneath that there are three screws holding the centre air vents. Remove by pulling straight back then you'll have room to get your hand in there to hopefully get it with a magnet. Some Phillips head screwdriver tips are magnetic.

Sounds like you are doing all the right things. I don't know but maybe drop in a small chevy block. The engine bay is wide but narrow. It would be an expensive conversion, but not expensive if you've got the right people who know how to do these things. Supercharger might fit, I've seen photos of them in Pathfinders.

Try wreckers first, I don't know if Alkorahl would know if they are still available brand new.

You're right about it taking a bit of time to get things back up to charge. After changing my alternator, my dash lights would make a weird flickering and the indicators were pulsing brighter then dimmer. It took a couple of days for the volts to get back to normal. It seemed to just need a good couple of long drives with the lights off to recharge the circuits. It's just something these cars do and I'd say age has something to do with it too. With the static, did you check the antenna is up fully and plugged into the back of the stereo? It might have come a bit loose maybe? Just a thought.

He was Jerry Hirschberg, he no longer works as Nissan's main car designer, he retired in June, 2000. Found this interesting article anyway. http://archive.cardesignnews.com/news/whoswhere/000630ndi-jhirshberg.html

$400 for the bonnet, $350 for the back left door and rear quarter panel. They have the right gear there, air/dust extraction booth and a large bake room to dry the panels. They were very careful to remove any imperfections and they even gave the whole thing a wash and polish!

Yeah try these guys, they did my bonnet and rear quarter panel and back left door. Fantastic job and smooth as silk paint. http://www.truelocal.com.au/business/bg-panel-and-paints/carlisle

Does the coolant flow though on start up? Hmm, not sure. Il look at that tomorrow morning.

The thermostat must be doing it's job, I looked into the top of the radiator with the cap off and I can see the coolant flowing through from the top hose on the left side and it's gushing across to the right so coolant is flowing. Both top and bottom hoses feel warm. Summer is fast approaching here in Oz so I might stay with the higher concentrated stuff, see how that goes and then switch to the lower concentrate to see if the temp rises a bit. The higher concentrate says it's suitable for vehicles that tow caravans and such. Well I'm not towing anything else around except for myself lol.

Vaseline on the pipes so they slide on