SpecialWarr

As close to the third mark as possible if I recall correctly. That should be around 15 degrees.

Just a thought: (and I don't even know that this might be able to fix anything) did you change the vacuum hose from the top of the Fuel Pressure Regulator to the air plenum? If it's got 175 000 miles it may be cracked and tired. The FPR is located on the back of the intake plenum right next to the firewall and has about 4" of 3/32" vac hose on it which goes from the FPR to the plenum.... and its the thing that gets in the way of changing / finding / removing / installing the plug and ignition wire on cylinder #6...... Just a thought.

I like the idea! It looks very techy but I would be worried about the glass itself. I would think that the flex of the body over / through bumps and potholes may stress the glass enough to break it by accident. Maybe not, I'm just thinking out loud. I love the look though, it's aWWesome!!

As far as I have looked ( not closely) there are gears in the back of the dash that I assume are run off of the speedo cable. Have you tried resetting the trip meter(s) gently. That worked on mine until I popped it hard once and broke one of the gears/ teeth off.... soon after the speedo stopped operating due to .... ahh.... I'm not sure... something silly I may have done.

Does your speedometer still operate? It may be that the voltage regulator at the back of the dash needs help, it may be that the drive gear in the transmission has broken a few teeth if you have no speedo. Anyone else want to throw out a few ideas?

as Précise says... don't drive them around worn:

Uh... we have a check engine light??

I've been told that there is a voltage regulator in the back of the dash that tends to go funny after some years of service, but I would think that taking a look in the "Garage" section on here should get you to a downloadable Service Manual. You may find the answer in there.

I think you all wrong.... it is clearly a lightbulb that has burnt out ... On a more serious note: did the truck just begin to slow down at the instant the pop happened or after the zipping sound started? ( thinking something along the lines of a broken torque converter engagement spline ) I'm just throwing that out there though.

That's funny.... I was thinking that same thing ebayfish but I pulled my compressor off 2 summers ago. I am kinda fuzzy on the bolt lengths. M8x32x1.25P and M8x24x 1.25P...??... -ish

I have found that there is an industrial supplies warehouse just down the street. We get their catalog, that's where I get my stuff from but I know that a Google search pulls up places that I've never heard about in our area. You might try that!

I also had the #2 mis fire, not fire, and an indicate a fire with no fuel release . I solution ed that the wiring harness was at issue and spent the money on a factory harness and most of a Saturday afternoon switching it out. Works great now. Solid. Tight. And happy!

Mine appears to operate like it supposed to according to the FSM? But then I have one window that doesn't operate and the opposite door lock that operates backwards.... Seriously though, I'm not sure what going on with your truck. Did you clean the contacts on the back of the dash? I assume you checked that the grounds back there were tight also, no breaks in the circuit board? I'm throwing stuff out there, other than checking continuity from the end of one wire to its other end I got nothing else.

Well. Apparently I am not as good an electrician as I thought. The path will not start now that I have installed the daytime running light module. I drove it to work, had interior lights and dash lights but not enough electricity to start the truck. A boost did nothing other than sparks at the negative of the battery. Cold,tired, and dark means I am going to be having words with Ernest tomorrow when I take the 2 buses, 2 subways and a taxi to get back to work a few hours late.

Mine would have worked but the PO changed the shocks for... whatever is on there. And left the harness connectors dangling in the salt, grit and dust.

So that'll be the 4" lift springs then? 2" to take up the weight of the new rack and wheel to get you back to stock height and another 2" to get your 2" lift back!!

I finally had a nice "warm" day to install my daytime running light module from Canadian Tire. 90minutes and everything is tied down, wired and working like a charm. Monday will be soldering the connections and weather resistant heat shrink tubing. Notes for anyone else running an early wagon: R.h low beam is RED/BLACK wire; the L.h low is RED/GREEN!

I have to agree with bushnut and pav on the cornering technique. Since the road clearing around here is hit-n-miss or it snows a bit the day after there is often a compact layer of ice 2-3" thick in braking zones. The 4x4 shift - on-the-fly keeps my 1990 pulling through the corners.

Graphite lock lubricant is the best thing for locks. It may be available in both liquid and powdered form where you live but you'll have to hit the local auto shop, I prefer the liquid since it tends to work the graphite into the mechanics of the beast and doesn't wash out when dry. I use the powdered stuff in the house on door hinges and the toolbox locks. Stay away from WD-40, it's made to remove water from electronics, that's all it does well.

I have a 1990 and it has the key-keeper. I have never thought about taking it off but I'll look into making it stay in its open position tonight. It may not be that difficult.

They are indeed located on the passenger side of the transmission and with little space to spin a wrench, like usual.

http://www.amazon.co...9V9G7VJDXZJ2RWQ Is what I bought. I had it shipped and installed with the 2 screws on top of the original console tray lid.

I also looked for just that same thing last year, gave up after six weeks of searching the internet and ordered a Grant with an installation kit. No auto-signal cancelling. I thought about trying to replicate the cancel ring but just went with "whatever"!

Those are LUG-centric, yes?