SpecialWarr

Is it even poSSible to install the factory tailpipe to the factory muffler without lifting the truck 40" in the air?? I spent about an hour trying to figure out how the thing is supposed to be threaded through the truck but I can't make any sense of it.... anyone take a run at that? Tips traded for beers!!

Gloss black the hood... or armour-bed crinkled matte black the hood?? Maybe all the panels back to red?

A bit of touch up on the primered panels and admired my handi-capable work. Repainted both bumpers and decided that I'm glad I sold the chrome ones to Pav.... I prefer the black ones, dinged, bent and rusty.... it gives the truck more "patina"!!!

We don't have any clean bare steel here in the east!!

Got compliments of the look of the truck along with a recommendation to paint the whole thing bad a$$ black....

... girls! Although I have to admit I want to rally an Octavia!

Fwiw I run 5w30 all year round in mine and it does just fine in the winter. We are pretty much the same as you temp wise anyway. This is true! I thought that I might try a lighter oil just for curiosity. More to see what kind of measureable performance and/or mileage gains might be made from it. And it was on sale two weeks ago! !

Spent two hours trying to figure out why people decide to do things a certain way... specifically related to the way body panels are frikin' bolted to the truck! Why do I have to take off the cowl, bumper, turn light and wipers dammit.

The last few have been whatever the mechanic has on hand, but mostly its been Castrol Sytech (for all of my 17+ year old cars I've been buying since 1990) with a Fram filter. The next oil change is going to be a run with Mobil 1 0w20 Full Synthetic for the winter. I'm curious to see how it does here in Montreal during a -40 spell....

Definitely unplug the ECU, the risk of getting a short somehow somewhere faAArrrr outweighs the trouble of unplugging the ECU. I have one friend that claimed that he'd welded his Golf before without doing it but he was playing with fire and he knew it. I personally have done it but I forgot to unplug the ECU and the level of power I was using was the lowest setting, maybe that saved me, maybe it was the polarity of machine.

UUuhhhh.... dirty Mass Air Flow sensor? or old O2 sensor.. I tried the big hammer and flat-bladed screwdriver trick. Aim the screwdriver at the base of one of the flats on the O2 sensor and whack it with the hammer ....hard... more than once... That worked well for me. Mind you, I thought about doing that with the MAF more than once but haven't had to yet.

There is a pretty fair bit off terrain to ride a bike through but it's getting more difficult to find anything interesting and legal to drive though around Montreal. As Goosevf_1 says there is "Crown Land" but around here that means a 3 hour one-way drive just to get to the dirt road and another 45 minutes to get to a smaller dirt road and then another 30 minutes to find a trail.... There goes half a tank of gas. OR you can drive around through the paths under the power lines in Laval.

I'm sure we can arrange something!

Went shopping at someones' house last night! His Pathy died a while ago from frame cancer and he still had some parts floating around. Picked up a truckload of parts (all factory Nissan parts) for cheap..... and must remember to ask adamzan what he has for parts floating around!

I don't know if you've read through the diagnostics tables in the (download-able) FSM but I would start there. If it cranks and dies I would think that there is a large vacuum leak, maybe a split boot between the intake and the airbox, plugged air filter? Just throwing that out there since I'm not a pro mechanic.

You may be able to epoxy that into place if you need to, one of my friends did that with his Volvo. His temporary repair lasted four years and 70,00miles!!

I took it for a short drive, picked up rear disks and pads for $30, filled it with gas, gave it a wash and now it's going to rain.... but whatever! Going to look at some new fenders tomorrow; maybe get some bumpers and fender flares as well but we'll see how negotiable the price is!

hmm... did you try changing just the wire from #5 to another cylinder? I can't think of anything else other than a basic leak-down test, but is there a timing ring in the distributor like on the WD21? It MIGHT be dirty/ bent or its wire?? I'm just throwing stuff out there man.... best of luck!

I would add to your list: new vacuum lines ( all of them including the one for the fuel pressure regulator ) 3/32" is cheap, maybe re-grease the wheel bearings, lube the slide pins for all four calipers with silicon (I just found out that a dragging brake makes for terrible 0-60mph times), the "skid-plate" saves a measurable amount at the end of a year in gas ( 1" of mercury lower on a vacuum gauge without the plate is going to add up after 18 000 miles)..... MAF cleaned, intake and throttle body cleaned.... maybe clean the fuel injectors.... that's about what I had on my list including everything you mentioned. First thing I would do though is check the base timing if it feels at all sluggish.... correctly adjusting that brought my Pathfinder from the 10mpg area to 16-ish!! There is a link somewhere in here for that!

Hahaha.. "special" .... yes it is! I figure in a couple of more years I should be able to get into it without opening a door if I let it go... but I love that truck. I think it's the best vehicle I've ever spent money on... It does need help, but the drivetrain, bearings and suspension are in great shape and other than a couple of annoying electrical issues I just have body work and a small frame patch to do.... I have no real complaints! But I'll arm wrestle nunya for your WD21 if you decide to let it go!!

I got that like no one else's business.... 1990 SE spent it's entire life in Montreal, Canada... Highest snowfall in a major city in the world except Moscow.... highest cost for snow removal in ALL of the Americas and Europe.... and the most salt per person lain on the road in the world.... who else wants to move here?!!! Just for warm up: no rocker panels, body split at the front foot wells (both sides) from the outer fender surface to the trans hump, rear half of the frame has been patched three times and is due for another one, no intact fender bits on either side ( except the 3 bolts at the top ) and to top (sic) it off the sunroof main frame is rusted even though the drains are fully open..... do I win yet?

Aaahhh.... excellent! Thank you RedPath88....I was going to try the switch dis-mantle / rebuild but I was running two hours over my one-hour lunch. I shot brake cleaner ( to remove some oil ...???? htf does that get there??) on the switch contacts and patched around the Day-time running module then I had full control of the lights! YAAY!! After burning out THE meter fuse, freaking out that I'd blown ALL the fusible links I patched in a 2 ga. wire from the battery to the links connectors (jeeeezzzzuz I am begging for trouble aren't I...) and drove home.... without my wallet. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the fusible links "patch" and put the original links back in..... I thank you for your help with the link! Did anyone do a How-To on this yet? Anyone else interested in having one?

Bringing this one back from the morgue.... I just had the same symptoms (no dash lights and no running tail lights; brake lights work when you step on 'em) I did replace the ASCD/ Light switch with one from FleaBay last summer ( still have the old one though) but I was wondering whether it was the switch itself or the block on the column OR the DTRL module that is problematic? I noted that the topic started is from "The Great White North" which cannot be anything other than Canada! My module (newly rewired, crimped with connectors) operated well for about a week and then started being beeotchy every so often and now I'm at this place.... both headlights high & low, 4-ways front and back, turns left and right, brake lights work but no running tail lights or dash lights?? Dash circuit board? Ideas??