bushnut

what about the rumors I've heard about using the rear LSD diff out of a Nissan Z in the front of an R50? not sure about which years but I read about it some where.

I know you replaced the rad, but have you pressure tested the cap? could be it's not sealing like it should.

now that you did your SFD, what are the numbers? ie approach angle, ground clearance @ front diff and at rear diff, as well as rocker height

just re-read your post...unless you've done an engine swap your 92 should have the vg30 3L engine. that button on the gear selector will lock out the overdrive. otherwise it is always on. when it is off the transmission will hold 3rd gear longer. overdrive is your final highway gear. when going up steep hills and the trany is hunting between 3rd and 4th turning off overdrive keeps the rev's up and steady on the hills.

have you checked the fluid level in your transmission?

got it, thanks man.

now I'm really confused...I was just looking at a custom built Krypton Fabs 4 in SFD and it and 4 in strut spacers as well as 4in blocks for the SF. Though I suppose that stock springs were to be used with this set up?

sorry it's hawairish

to make things line up you'll have to match the strut spacers to the SFD. if you look at the Krypton Fabs set up the strut spacers equal the amount of spacer blocks you lower the front diff with. read through Hawirish's set up.

My Iron Man springs are rated 35mm front and 50mm rear. the strut spacers don't affect the stroke of the strut. so even if I have 50mm (2inches) of strut spacers doesn't matter. any added length to the stoke and most importantly the valving is what will make for a better ride. Now if only we could source high angle CV axles from somewhere........

could just be a poor machining job, my spacers that I got off of ebay look almost the same but no issues.

could they have meant that the rear brake shoes were seized and were not engaging?

once my struts bite the bucket again, I'm going with the OME because they are longer to deal with the extended spring length and are also valved for a lifted off road vehicle. As opposed to the GR2 or Munroe, etc are valved for on road driving, with the occasional pot hole. I've even thought about importing some struts from Tough Dog in Australia. again valved for off road use.

I did the sensor relocation trick . /https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=nissan+knock+sensor+relocation&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001 or http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f46/knock-sensor-relocation-how-41704/ this worked out for me, I was able to do the work in a little under an hour. there are many opinions on whether this will lead do engine trouble down the road. I chose to chance it.

seeing as lots of guys have made their own out of PVC pipe and they work fine, I'd say this one will work as well, and have a nice factory look. the hard part is cutting a hole through the fender and side wall of the engine bay. somewhere on YouTube is a video of this process.

mine leaks a little from the cold start on the throttle body a small drip, has been for 3 years but I keep an eye on it and it's never gotten worse.

this may be of some help.

good job brother, glade to see you've sorted things out. I've got one of the OEM overhead consoles (JY find) however no wiring or sensors for it to work. If you find a JY one remember to pull all the wiring that goes with it.

the lugs on the spacers were to long for the stock nutts so I drilled them out on my buddy's lath.

If you can't budget new wheels just yet, spacers are the way to go, I went with 1.5 spacers and I'm happy with the look and performance.

have you adjusted the wheel bearings? that might be it.

if they don't click or make noise how do you know they are bad?

got any pics? mine is a '00 and it is straight across.

find a new wiper motor at the Junk yard, thats what it took to fix mine.