bushnut

I had a similar thing happen, though it was when I had been driving for a while and then stopped ( to run into a store or something) and then restarted the idle would jump all over the place.. I found that a few of my vacuum hoses were cracked or not on tight. once I delt with that all was good again.

I'll never use KYB struts again..Check out how long I've been on this forum...I'm about to replace my 2nd set....I don't thing they like the cold. or maybe my lift and wheel spacers.? the hard part is finding a OME (ARB) distributor in Canada...I found a local guy who does JDM (Toyota) diesel to french fry grease conversions who is an ARB dealer. and is willing to import some OME struts for me. pricing was similar to Rugged rocks. I let you know how they work out....my reasoning that they will be better is that they are valved for a lifted vehicle and are off road designed. not just highway cruising. the only other option is rancho but they are hard to find. check these guys out....http://krazyhousecustoms.com/i-23060633-rancho-rs5000-series-suspension-strut-assembly-rs5814.html I think I found a distributor in Toronto who has these as well but I can' t find the link. 3rd option would be Tough Dog out of Australia but they only have one distributor in Colorado and they haven't gotten back to me yet on prices....

the hard part would be fabricating a mount for the coil over to attach to the lower control arm. and still be able to be part of the steering assembly. remember a McPherson strut assembly needs to rotate at the top to allow the wheel to steer. I'm not sure a coil over has that ability.

I had very bad vibration in the steering wheel after installing a lift and wheel spacers.....only to discover that my struts were very dead. after replacing them no more vibration. keep in mind that I am running 35mm lift springs along with 50mm of strut spacers. as well as 1 1/4 wheel spacers and no vibration.

wow a new one for only $50. up here in the Great White North the online sellers want $300 so it was worth my time.

nope.

I've managed to salvage a couple of abs sensors at the JY when mine craped out. i just tapped them out with a punch and a hammer. though I was very careful. It took a while but I plugged them in and no more ABS light yelling at me.

1/4 inch is plenty of room. the tire will not touch the spring perch of the strut. they move togeather. check out my build thread. I've got some pics. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35827-bushnuts-r50/?hl=bushnut

keep in mind that the peak output for the 3.3 is 170hp@ 4800rpm (according to edmunds.com) so maybe higher RPMs might be a good thing. I recently got an "Ultraguage" and while watching over the past few weeks. HP vs Torque vs Speed/RPM vs % engine load this engine normally chugs along @ 55KPH @2200ish rpm with aprox 120fps of torque and 68hp @ 79% of peek engine load. I'll be posting a video of this soon. while I understand that this is a calculated hp/torque/engine load. I was very surprised at how few hp this engine makes at average (normal) RPM. According to Expedition Portal, the new Range Rover diesel at almost the same displacement produces roughly twice as much Hp and torque at almost half the RPM. I also understand that my "UltraGuage" just might be out to lunch.

that truck was for sale on here a couple of weeks ago. or on CL or something. found it... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40996-interesting-craigslist-ad-3-1988-desert-runners-for-sale/

I've been running 2, 1" spacers up front( 1 fleury's and 1 aluminum ) along with Iron Man 35mm springs for the last year and a bit. so far no issues also running 31's and 1.25 spacers. I did install warn manual hubs this summer only for fuel consumption reasons....worth every penny.

I did the Knock sensor relocation described on the Nissan Fronteir forum. runs great no issues.

read this through it should answer your questions http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28111-limiting-straps-on-r50/?hl=limiting

I'm running 31's on old legos for the last year, no issues.

Hey bro, I'm up in Bathurst visiting my folks. I'd love an excuse to see your truck in person but I don't think I'll have time to get down there. so close and yet so far. It would be nice to grab a pint and talk truck. maybe next time I drive out here we'll see. I've got some friends in Sackville I'd like to see too but I'm short on time and no wheels of my own.

any time brother...

one of the main reasons I lifted my truck was for increased load capasity. the IronMan Lift springs that I installed allow me to load 400lb over GVW. 4 adults 1 large dog and camping gear for a weekend has almost no affect on handling. fuel consumption goes up a little though.

did reverse work before anything was done? could just be a bad solinoid. any bad noise? have you checked all the connections?

Hi RC, To get to the point front CV angle is going to be your enemy. 2in is about the max that you can go without causing CVs to fail at full droop. (strut extension). brake line length again at full extension is a factor. wheel spacers are a less expensive solution than wheels with a different off set to run bigger tires without having any rub at full turning lock. just make sure you use your torque wrench. I've got the same model and year. check out my build thread some inspiration.

I've got a driver side QX4 fender that I installed, all the bolt holes lined up except the corner (signal) light is a different shape, causing a gap. (fixed with metal tape and spray paint) and the hood line does not quite a match the fender line. I suppose I could have shimmed it but, mine is a bush truck so I didn't care (much). at least I don't have to look at the cancer anymore.

if your knife isn't sharp you might as well use a spoon. A dull cutting tool is useless as well as dangerous as you have to apply more force to make it work, potentially causing it to slip and cut you. grab a file and sharpen that blade up mister. A machete doesn't have a hard edge so a file should do. I'll also have to add, in our Boreal forest an Ax and a good pull saw (Silky makes great ones) will do better than a machete (jungle tool) for quick trail clearing.

here it is for the record, though I might add another one that says "Adventure Mobile"

where in BC? Other than Vancouver, and Victoria most of BC is pretty rural. it shouldn't be hard to find a 4x4 club. oh and bring your mountain bike the riding there is fantastic.

the Pathfinder has more cargo room, though you will have to in either case get either stiffer rear coil or leaf springs to carry a "heavy load". I've got Iron Man coils that let me load 400lbs more than than stock gross vehicle weight and work quite well with 4 adults, 1 large dog and camping gear for a weekend. other springs you might consider are Old Man Emu (much easier to get) or AC (auto motive customizer) at 4x4parts.com.

crawl under the truck look for the linkages from the shift lever to the transfer case, spray the crap out of them with penetrating lube. then get in the truck and work that lever. Lots of time POs don't ever use the 4x4 system and the linkages get corroded or gunked up with dirt. once you get things moving. crawl back under there and use some spray grease to keep them working. word to the wise, put your truck in 4hi the moment you hit the trail. that way you are already in 4x4 before you need it.