bushnut

yes! I'm running 1 in flurey's spacers and that is probably to much. I haven't killed a cv yet but I go through sway bar end links about once a year.

a missfire is either electrical, fuel or air related. Mine turned out to be fuel (bad injector) I'd go buy a OBD2 scanner at princes auto you can get them for about 50 bucks or less. it will help you narrow down the problem. being able to see fuel trim levels in real time would be helpful. read this it. http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0305

sounds like you might have an air bubble in the coolant system that is not allowing the coolant to circulate. watch this video.

Eugene

welcome Sam, the 4x4 lifestyle is hard to beat.

mathalicious! a GREAT customer brought in Saskatoon berry tarts for us today! I still feel fat (only had 2)

whats your fuel millage like? have you replaced spark plugs, wire, rotor, cap recently? does it idle ok? when an engine is not running right but still runs the first things to check are spark and fuel. to little spark or to much fuel can cause the engine to choke.

I had IronMan Lift springs in my 2000 R50 Pathfinder....the sagged to lower than stock in less than 2 years. Stay away....go with OME

so happened to me again this weekend...traveling along at 100 kph hit the cruise...all good for about 60seconds....then hiccup ...start to loose speed, cruise control light in dash flashing, press accelerator... nothing. turn off Cruise at switch on dash board.nothing. Pull over to the side of the road and turned off the truck and re-start. all good. didn't try to use cruise for the rest of the weekend. did a 400km+ drive and no other issues was running like a champ. until I realized that on steep hills the transmission does not step down to a lower gear from OD unless I use the button on the gear selector. Is this relay or vacuum controled? throwing no codes but were should I start looking?

Nice find..Very jealous. I'm missing the same hub cap for my "lego" wheels on the right rear. though I'm running them on an R50. Probably the only one doing so. they just look cooler than a traditional 5 spoke. IMHO.

Bad or dirty gas can cause all kinds of misery. Bad (old) or gas from the bottom of the tank (at the gas station) is a mechanics nightmare. some times it has water in it or has started to break down chemically. just as a test try filling up with premium from a busy station in a well to do neighbourhood...(Canadian spelling). the reason being is that "nice" 'hoods have nicer cars that require premium fuel. meaning that it gets replaced more often, equals "fresher" gas. As a side note my truck runs noticeably better on premium gas, and has better fuel economy especially in the cold. I figure that it is because the engine (vg33) was not designed to run on ethanol. Ethanol can cause all kinds of problems in older cars as it breaks down and eats rubber hoses and absorbs water from the atmosphere. Though your VQ engine should be immune. as it is a newer platform, I'd still try a test.

So I went to the local JY today found a couple of R50s grabbed 2 injectors from 2 different vehicles. different cylinders....just to up my odds of not pulling more bad ones. total cost...$10.00. they look like OEM one. picked one cleaned it up with carb cleaner and installed....truck runs perfect. has more power. sounds great. I think this problem was developing for a while but took some time to throw a code. just a steady decline in performance that sneaks up on you until things are bad. my advice is to buy an Ultra Gage/ Scan Gage/ Smart Phone AP that lets you see your engines performance in real time. it really helps with diagnostics.

not my first day at the rodeo. I am a bicycle mechanic by trade. fixing is what I do. when searching the internet for a solution to a problem, nothing drives me crazier than incomplete forum posts. almost as bad as blue balls.

GOOD NEWS...there is light at the end of the tunnel. so after checking for vacuum leaks with a can of carb clean (finding none) I started checking the injectors. the should have a resistance of 11- 14 ohms. #5 (miss firing cylinder) was reading at 18 ohms. removed it and it looked Ok. cleaned it and re-installed. truck ran great, code was clear, for about 2 minutes. Then started shuddering again and code P0305 came back. swapped injector #5 with ingector #1.....Lo and behold code switched to P0301...bad injector. heading to the JY tomorrow to find a few injectors...a new one up hear is $192.00.... I know right...free trade may asss. Judging from the lack of tool marks on the hold down screws these puppies are 17 years old and I think I'll have to replace more of them in the future.

I hear your pain. just spent the last week or so chasing a cylinder 5 miss fire code. through careful diagnosis and process of elimination I figured it out to be a bad injector. Have you checked for any Vacuum leaks? a can of carb clean works well for this. I'd even run a bottle of injector cleaner (I know it's snake oil but what do you have to loose?) through the system. are you running premium gas? it does make a difference as older cars were not designed to run ethanol. hope this helps read this....repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-p0171

just remember to use your torque wrench. oh! and DO NOT HAMMER on the splined end of the axle where it goes through the hub. don't ask me how I know. It helps if you disconnect the ball joint and the strut to do the cv shafts.

So the truck started shaking and stuttering the other day CEL was Flashing. Code P0305. Cylinder #5 misfire. Started with the usual suspects. Plugs&Wires #6 is a PITA #4 was almost stuck! Next Distributor cap and rotor, as well as air filter. Oil was changed in December, Cleared Codes with my scan tool. drove around the block and no change still running bad. most definitively not running on all 6 cylinders. Though it starts just fine. first time every try. At Idle you can tell it is not quite right but no bad clanking or other "wrong noises" just a stutter in the idle. today's air temp was -7C. CEL still showing P0305. Just filled up with premium Gas and a bottle of injector cleaner "snake oil". any ideas? tomorrow I'll be checking for vacuum leaks with a can of brake clean. The Question is will there be any harm to the engine driving around like this?

after replacing everything else I still had a clicking sound....they were the last and cheapest parts. next time I'm starting there and moving to the more expensive stuff. If you think about what a sway bar does you realize that it is under constant twisting/ bending forces. small rubber bushings really won't last all that long. they are easy to change and are what enginnerds call a consumable. I think I paid like 5 bucks from rock auto. there wasn't any noticeable "slop" but when I compared the old vs. the new it was very apparent that they were worn out.

check the sway bar bushings that are on the front of the sway bar parallel to the steering rack. they are known to deteriorate and are very quick and cheep to replace.

btw all R50s have a whinny rear end.

I get a low whine from my T-case as well. I have the older manual version.

I'm running 31x10.5 guard dogs on Legos no issues. though I do run wheel spacers. 33 might be a little tight in the wheel well without trimming.

snail power!

i feel that every engineer involved with the development of the vg33 engine should be forced to be on FREE 24h call to replace the #6 spark plug. thereby forever solving the problem of..."well F$*&K them I'll never have to work on it!"

well the weather changed by 20 degrees in the last 12 hours ! -26C @6pm yesterday -6C this morning at 6am. I've got a spare MAF from a JY . I'll plug that in on my lunch break and see if anything gets better.