bushnut

I can measure speed, RPM, HP, Torque, % of engine output, Temperature, battery output etc... It also tells me if the engine is in open or closed loop. it is also a code reader (no codes indicated). the loop indicator seems to go to closed as the temperature reaches around 60C normal operating temp is 84C. were is that temperature sensor located?

the ticking noise seems to have gone away. just the usual lifter noise on start up for about 2-3 seconds. cold engine performance is still awful but as it warms up things get better. todays -30C temperatures don't help at all. next week things should warm up a little and I'll be able to investigate more. I'm thinking that there might be an issue with the AIC or throttle sensor.

bump

Ok, so I just got back from running around town. before I left I opened the Air box ( I tied the air filter to the intake so at least the engine would be breathing through a filter) and just left it open a crack. As it is -20C right now I wasn't to worried about the sucking up to much hot air from the engine compartment. The engine purred very smooth at idle 750 rpm. however according to my Ultra gauge while accelerating from 0-70km/h at 1/4 throttle the engine was running at 1800-2000 RPM and running at 100% of capacity. delivering 200ft of torques but only 98hp. I was keeping up with traffic but then engine sounded like it was working way harder than it should. I'm wondering if my torque converter is slipping? how would i tell? is there maybe something else I might look at? thanks 'yall.

So an update. ...after a couple of late nights looking into this online, I think I narrowed it down to a 3 potential things. 1. loose rotor 2. bad cam sensor in the distributor, 3. plugged air idle control valve. I waited till it warmed up this morning -19C and went out to have a look. (I'm working on the street BTW). the rotor seemed good. all plug wires attached. couldn't do much about the cam sensor or AIC. I decided to start it up an just have a good listen...the idle was up around 1600 and faster when I put it in gear and it still seemed to have a chug. then I had an AH! HA! moment. What is an engine? and air pump. I realized that it sounds like it isn't getting a full breath. l tuned off the truck and opened up the air filter box. checked the filter.(it was new in July) all seemed ok. I decided to start the truck with the air box open and see if that made any difference....a few seconds of chugging and then it started purring like a kitten!!! idles now at 1075 in Park and down to 750 in Drive. I've just come in to warm up. a few days ago we had 30cm (11.8inches) of snow the other day and I'm wondering if I've got some in the intake resonator below the air filter box? I'm gonna go for a drive now and see if things change.

coolant good, oil was a little low. no codes on my Ultra Guage no CEL. On the drive home from work yesterday I kept an eye on my ultra guage. at 1/4 throttle RPM was about 1850 and speed was 40KM/H. engine was producing 200 ft of torque and running at 100% of output. when I got home I popped the hood and listen to a sound that I can describe as similar to a bit of plastic hitting a fan blade. if I opened the throttle the "ticking" sound got faster. it seems to be coming from under the throttle body. I have a feeling that it is a bad injector. looks like I'll be bringing it to a local shop.

legitimate question, but I'm about at a 1/4 tank. and I've only used premium gas (mostly shell) for the last 3 years. up here anything else has ethanol in it which I am apposed to. though there is a difference between summer and winter gas. I'll fill up tomorrow morning and see if that makes a difference.

plug wires/ and rotor and cap about 18 months ago, plugs a few months more.

so as the title sais....happened suddenly the other day. I noticed it while at a stop light. idle RPM seems normal. but sounds rough. there is a rhythmic vibration as well. you can here it in the exhaust. no codes thrown. the question is were do I start? long term reproductions if I keep driving it like this? the bad part is it is -23C and I have no garage to work in.

I've had this problem twice. both times connected to the rear window wiper assembly. first time took me the longest to find. replaced the offending wiper motor unit with a JY find. worked fine for about 2 years then started having the same battery drain. pulled the fuse to the rear window wiper and no more problem. Soon enough I'll find another rear wiper motor assembly and replace it again...until the i'll live without it.

very nice! now go get it dirty and have an adventure.

just to throw a wrench in. how bout these... Treadwright Guard Dog. They are a little noisy on the highway but great in the snow and mud. and they've been recycled. I've had mine for about 3 years and still lots of tread left.

ah crap! forgot about our friend Fleury's. sorry mate. I'm running his lift kit. top notch stuff. when I got my front skid he wasn't making them at the time. can't wait until he starts making sliders and bumpers!

check these guys out. keep in mind they are in the US and our $ sucks right now. I have their front skid plate. what can I say about it...its a hunk of steel, all the bolt holes lined up. it is a PITA to take off to get to the oil filter....it keeps rocks and stumps out from bashing my steering rack and lower engine parts. http://www.4x4parts.com/c-1048936-armor-skid-plates-4x4parts-skid-plates-pathfinder.html

nice, I've been thinking of doing this for a while. did you tie it in to the main "frame rail" at all with gussets or something?

well while your in there. tire upgrade? under armor? may as well check brakes, diff breathers, and any and all bushings. deal with rust as you find it. go have fun. drive responsively.

dead battery.

spray everything down a few days prior with your favorite penetrating lubricant, have a handy breaker bar around. power tools are useful but not necessary. a friend to hand you a beer is. start from the bottom up.. ie remove lower control arm first. also fore ease of work remove front drive shafts as well. finish with removal of strut. to reassemble start with the strut top and work your way down. remember to torque everything when the truck is sitting level on the ground. I'd replace swaybar bushings and end links as well while i'm in there. and may as well do the brakes if necessary. I've done this work a few times now with no powertools on my front lawn. I have invented new bad words to yell at nissan enginerds. but I have save hundreds of $$$ and gained the pride of doing it myself. best of luck.

Nope. this is the PITA we get for living where we do and choosing a truck that nobody else thinks is cool. In the end the OME struts and springs I installed were worth it. Way better ride quality than the KYB and Monroe I had before. built beefier as well. BTW, Rockyroad is asking $167 USD per Pair of springs. and 7% duty and shipping to that and exchange rate of about .75C/ 1USD. I had a local guy import them for me and ended up paying about $400 for springs and $700 for the struts.

I new there had to be more of us...

one of those is on my future radar...Torsen diff?

Hey Buddy! I'm running OME HD front coils on OME struts (best strut I've run,nothing else comes close) with a Flurey's spacer to boot. with no ill effects. Lockable hubs are a must, you will appreciate the fuel economy on those long highway drives. I've got IronMan springs out back but will replace them with OME HD when the time is right for better load handling. Blistein 5160 reservoir 2" longer than stock shocks. 31x10.5R15 Treadwright Guard Dog tires (noisy on the highway but awesome on gravel/snow and mud. check out my build thread for more. Like you I don't "off road" to have fun but to get me to places I want to camp and hunt. This truck has not let me down once. that being said I was exploring an area mostly used by atv and when I encountered a side by side on the trail they couldn't believe my truck was driving were it was. (over an old beaver dam and through a shallow creek) 4Lo and a good spotter no drama at all. Don't fret about the suspension work, I've done all of mine with limited or even no power tools on my front lawn, redneck style.

my advice is to slow down. you will break fewer parts when traversing rough terrain at a slower speed. remember the golden rule of off road driving is as slow as possible as fast as necessary. next invest in better lights.

this weekend I was headed out to a music festival. Had the cruise on at 104 kph. 40min into the trip and it just cut out. throttleb still worked but no speed was being shown on my Ultra Gauge. Cruise control light was blinking. pulled over. temp was good, battery good, idle was normal. no codes being shown. turned off the truck and restarted. everything was fine.....didn't use the cruise any more until I got to the festival. Had a great time BTW. I did use it the whole drive home yesterday. about 1h drive @ 104-5 kph no issues....what gives? anybody have this happen before?

how easy is it to replace? I've been having the same issue. so Following your test method mine spins freely with the engine off. which one would you recommend from rock auto? looked at a similar product from a Canadian parts distributor and they want over $200 for the bloody thing...check this out. http://www.autopartsway.ca/partlist.cfm?nissan/2000/pathfinder/se/3.3l-v6/allb/cooling/cooling-fan,-clutch-and-motor/engine-cooling-fan-clutch talk about northern gouging.