bushnut

So an update. ...after a couple of late nights looking into this online, I think I narrowed it down to a 3 potential things. 1. loose rotor 2. bad cam sensor in the distributor, 3. plugged air idle control valve. I waited till it warmed up this morning -19C and went out to have a look. (I'm working on the street BTW). the rotor seemed good. all plug wires attached. couldn't do much about the cam sensor or AIC. I decided to start it up an just have a good listen...the idle was up around 1600 and faster when I put it in gear and it still seemed to have a chug. then I had an AH! HA! moment. What is an engine? and air pump. I realized that it sounds like it isn't getting a full breath. l tuned off the truck and opened up the air filter box. checked the filter.(it was new in July) all seemed ok. I decided to start the truck with the air box open and see if that made any difference....a few seconds of chugging and then it started purring like a kitten!!! idles now at 1075 in Park and down to 750 in Drive. I've just come in to warm up. a few days ago we had 30cm (11.8inches) of snow the other day and I'm wondering if I've got some in the intake resonator below the air filter box? I'm gonna go for a drive now and see if things change.

coolant good, oil was a little low. no codes on my Ultra Guage no CEL. On the drive home from work yesterday I kept an eye on my ultra guage. at 1/4 throttle RPM was about 1850 and speed was 40KM/H. engine was producing 200 ft of torque and running at 100% of output. when I got home I popped the hood and listen to a sound that I can describe as similar to a bit of plastic hitting a fan blade. if I opened the throttle the "ticking" sound got faster. it seems to be coming from under the throttle body. I have a feeling that it is a bad injector. looks like I'll be bringing it to a local shop.

legitimate question, but I'm about at a 1/4 tank. and I've only used premium gas (mostly shell) for the last 3 years. up here anything else has ethanol in it which I am apposed to. though there is a difference between summer and winter gas. I'll fill up tomorrow morning and see if that makes a difference.

plug wires/ and rotor and cap about 18 months ago, plugs a few months more.

so as the title sais....happened suddenly the other day. I noticed it while at a stop light. idle RPM seems normal. but sounds rough. there is a rhythmic vibration as well. you can here it in the exhaust. no codes thrown. the question is were do I start? long term reproductions if I keep driving it like this? the bad part is it is -23C and I have no garage to work in.

I've had this problem twice. both times connected to the rear window wiper assembly. first time took me the longest to find. replaced the offending wiper motor unit with a JY find. worked fine for about 2 years then started having the same battery drain. pulled the fuse to the rear window wiper and no more problem. Soon enough I'll find another rear wiper motor assembly and replace it again...until the i'll live without it.

just to throw a wrench in. how bout these... Treadwright Guard Dog. They are a little noisy on the highway but great in the snow and mud. and they've been recycled. I've had mine for about 3 years and still lots of tread left.

ah crap! forgot about our friend Fleury's. sorry mate. I'm running his lift kit. top notch stuff. when I got my front skid he wasn't making them at the time. can't wait until he starts making sliders and bumpers!

check these guys out. keep in mind they are in the US and our $ sucks right now. I have their front skid plate. what can I say about it...its a hunk of steel, all the bolt holes lined up. it is a PITA to take off to get to the oil filter....it keeps rocks and stumps out from bashing my steering rack and lower engine parts. http://www.4x4parts.com/c-1048936-armor-skid-plates-4x4parts-skid-plates-pathfinder.html

nice, I've been thinking of doing this for a while. did you tie it in to the main "frame rail" at all with gussets or something?

spray everything down a few days prior with your favorite penetrating lubricant, have a handy breaker bar around. power tools are useful but not necessary. a friend to hand you a beer is. start from the bottom up.. ie remove lower control arm first. also fore ease of work remove front drive shafts as well. finish with removal of strut. to reassemble start with the strut top and work your way down. remember to torque everything when the truck is sitting level on the ground. I'd replace swaybar bushings and end links as well while i'm in there. and may as well do the brakes if necessary. I've done this work a few times now with no powertools on my front lawn. I have invented new bad words to yell at nissan enginerds. but I have save hundreds of $$$ and gained the pride of doing it myself. best of luck.

one of those is on my future radar...Torsen diff?

this weekend I was headed out to a music festival. Had the cruise on at 104 kph. 40min into the trip and it just cut out. throttleb still worked but no speed was being shown on my Ultra Gauge. Cruise control light was blinking. pulled over. temp was good, battery good, idle was normal. no codes being shown. turned off the truck and restarted. everything was fine.....didn't use the cruise any more until I got to the festival. Had a great time BTW. I did use it the whole drive home yesterday. about 1h drive @ 104-5 kph no issues....what gives? anybody have this happen before?

how easy is it to replace? I've been having the same issue. so Following your test method mine spins freely with the engine off. which one would you recommend from rock auto? looked at a similar product from a Canadian parts distributor and they want over $200 for the bloody thing...check this out. http://www.autopartsway.ca/partlist.cfm?nissan/2000/pathfinder/se/3.3l-v6/allb/cooling/cooling-fan,-clutch-and-motor/engine-cooling-fan-clutch talk about northern gouging.

those haven't been available for some time. I'd look into "missing Link" to find some photos.

this has happened to me as well when installing new struts. you haven't broken anything unless you've been driving like this. then it is pretty much screwed. I'd find a JK replacement left or right doesn't matter they will either fit both sides. what has happened is the joint has slipped over a snap ring. next time this happens if you have a bench vice, snap ring pliers and a heavy plastic mallet, you can just fix it. plenty of how to videos on Youtube. I've found that removing the shaft makes strut replacement much easier.

after replacing my KYB struts twice in 3 years. now I'll never buy that brand again. they don't deal with the cold i think. just put in Old Man Emu struts and springs what a difference. the build quality and ride blow the KYB out of the water they are valved for off road and a lifted Truck. I had Iron Man springs but the front ones sagged out to lower than stock in 4 years. the rear seem to be fine. so my set up now is, OME Struts with HD springs, IronMan rear springs with Bilstein 5150 rear shocks. the ride both on and off road is great. I'm also running Fleury's spacers up front and everything is running great.

Say it ain't so man....but I can't wait to see what you'll have to offer. I'm sure it will be cool, innovative and well built. bon chance mon ami.

no I haven't. I also took one of the spacers out so now it's just the "lift coils" and 1in fleury's spacer. I can live with the rake I guess as it puts less stress on the rest of the bushings and such. not to mention I'm not worried about cv angles anymore.

just did both struts AGAIN! never will I buy KYB again. replaced with OME cost was stupid but the do seem more substantial. however the paint sucks. ended up with lots of scratches during install. while I was in there I also did both ball joints and the left lower control arm. what a long day. did I mention no power tools and I was working on my front lawn.

fixed a 2" hole in the floor right were my left foot sits....noticed the carpet was wet and when I pulled it up I figured out why......riveted a piece of sheet metal on the outside and epoxy/ steel mesh on the inside covered everything with a thick layer of rubberized bed liner.

I sell both. quality wise and warranty they are equal....I ended up building my own. out of angle iron and stainless grid from a store display.

should be no problem as I'm running "lego" wheels on an R50

we'll I do my own work and its a real pain in the Ass to do the work on my front street. mostly my truck is a DD and not a driven fast off road. Make what you will of Winnipeg streets:). I just feel that struts should last longer than 1 or 2 years,.